New Chinese juniper

Trimaptim

Mame
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Ok I know it's not much, but I'm still new to bonsai so I just want some feedback. I got this tree in a trade so it was basically free. The first pic is how I got it. The second is after I pruned the top, roots, potted and wired it. Give me some feedback please folks. What could I do to improve on design?
 

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MattE

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im new as well but i think you did an excellent job on this
 

Japonicus

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Ok I know it's not much, but I'm still new to bonsai so I just want some feedback. I got this tree in a trade so it was basically free. The first pic is how I got it. The second is after I pruned the top, roots, potted and wired it. Give me some feedback please folks. What could I do to improve on design?
One or the other, roots or foliage reduction (but keeping foliage as close in to the trunk as possible). Not both.
then once the project is rebounded in a year or two, pot it up or reduce some foliage.
A heavy reduction in foliage should occur after proactively feeding the previous year and establishing
excellent vigour. Then, with that vigour returned, you in turn have foliage that will support root development.

With the foliage removed away from the trunk, and so sparse between foliage pads, you’re forcing
a tall project. That’s not bad in and of itself to be tall, but you’ve very little taper for the height.
You can fix the tape issue by growing freely in the ground several years or drastically reducing to the lowest
branch for the new trunk. However it appears to be quite barren of foliage as well.
So, foliage = solar power to help recovery, particularly recovery of root work for us.
 

Mike Hennigan

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I think you did way too much all at once, as the previous post touched on. What I would have done is repot the tree first, but prune no foliage off and probably not wire. And then in a years time if it was showing a lot of vigor, then I may prune the foliage back and wire.

That said I did exactly what you have done when I first started and have killed a number of junipers this way.

My best advice on keeping this tree alive is to keep it in shade or a spot where it will only get a minimal amount of morning sunlight. And mist the foliage every time our walk by it.

I do like your design concept, I hope the tree lives.
 

Trimaptim

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One or the other, roots or foliage reduction (but keeping foliage as close in to the trunk as possible). Not both.
then once the project is rebounded in a year or two, pot it up or reduce some foliage.
A heavy reduction in foliage should occur after proactively feeding the previous year and establishing
excellent vigour. Then, with that vigour returned, you in turn have foliage that will support root development.

With the foliage removed away from the trunk, and so sparse between foliage pads, you’re forcing
a tall project. That’s not bad in and of itself to be tall, but you’ve very little taper for the height.
You can fix the tape issue by growing freely in the ground several years or drastically reducing to the lowest
branch for the new trunk. However it appears to be quite barren of foliage as well.
So, foliage = solar power to help recovery, particularly recovery of root work for us.
I guess I should explain, when I say root pruning, I didn't take any feeder roots, just a couple thick one's. So very little root pruning. And I put it in the pot to get it established because the soil it was in was bad. I plan on planting it in the ground after a year or so.
 

Trimaptim

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One or the other, roots or foliage reduction (but keeping foliage as close in to the trunk as possible). Not both.
then once the project is rebounded in a year or two, pot it up or reduce some foliage.
A heavy reduction in foliage should occur after proactively feeding the previous year and establishing
excellent vigour. Then, with that vigour returned, you in turn have foliage that will support root development.

With the foliage removed away from the trunk, and so sparse between foliage pads, you’re forcing
a tall project. That’s not bad in and of itself to be tall, but you’ve very little taper for the height.
You can fix the tape issue by growing freely in the ground several years or drastically reducing to the lowest
branch for the new trunk. However it appears to be quite barren of foliage as well.
So, foliage = solar power to help recovery, particularly recovery of root work for us.
Oh also, I forgot, while I consider the soil "bad"... I mean it was in mostly organic and not well draining. But it has been taken care of and fertilized for quite a while. I know the nursery I got it from and he's been doing bonsai for almost 50 years. But will taking a lot of growth kill the tree? I thought that as long as the roots were good and there was still top growth the tree would pump nutrients up to keep it alive...am I wrong in thinking this?
 

Ali Raza

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Ok I know it's not much, but I'm still new to bonsai so I just want some feedback. I got this tree in a trade so it was basically free. The first pic is how I got it. The second is after I pruned the top, roots, potted and wired it. Give me some feedback please folks. What could I do to improve on design?
I guess you could go for cascade design. Anyway damage is done. Now it is time to make it right. Let it grow for couple of seasons.
 

Trimaptim

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I guess you could go for cascade design. Anyway damage is done. Now it is time to make it right. Let it grow for couple of seasons.
Cascade won't work. It's grown too thick to bend down into a Cascade. That was my initial thought. So I went with an informal upright.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Cascade won't work. It's grown too thick to bend down into a Cascade. That was my initial thought. So I went with an informal upright.
Nonsense. You could tie that little trunk in a knot if you wanted to. Not that the world needs another cascade Juniper.
 

Japonicus

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There may still be enough of a morsel left in the front facing branch
to pull this off in 3 years. I could not rotate it back to the right CW anymore with my software.
.Edit 5 13 2019.jpg
This is the importance of keeping foliage close to the trunk. It allows more options as you proceed.
Set it on a stand next to the tv a couple evenings and study it before you execute a next step
(referring back to the original photo). Do some work if you're styling it, stop, then revisit it another day.
I thought that as long as the roots were good and there was still top growth the tree would pump nutrients up to keep it alive...am I wrong in thinking this?
No not entirely, but the work done went beyond gambling the health of the tree. Don't forget, the foliage is the only receptor the plant has to UV.
Sure the roots uptake N...and foliage can grow, but you've insulted (term for working a plant) the tree both top side and below ground, which we normally
do one insult per year, with a few exceptions. The Sunlight will help build the roots back with enough solar panels (foliage) left to do so
provided your securing, to the pot well, and your after care instinctively provides care needed to nourish it back to health.
Then, we have to wait for new growth and feed sparingly the tender new feeder roots that do get fed by the foliage, so you're looking at a set back
in feeding too, relying on stored nutrients, ...vigour, health, is being depleted as we wait, then comes the heat and the tree enters a more dormant like
wellness issue, again, holding off on the time it takes vigour to return. In the meantime your aftercare has become more and more critical.

If I were to remove as much foliage as you did on a plant, it would probably be repotted the following year if there was a reason I felt it needed doing.
[EDIT: But probably not for at least 2 years, to get silly plump new growth.]
The idea is to go into repotting with vigour to increase your success rate, so, I mean that's how I approach repotting based on the weather outlook as well.
 

Trimaptim

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I could make that trunk a circle if I wanted to. Its not too thick for working haha.
I meant for me and what I know how to do, it's a bit out of reach. How would you go about bending such a thick and stiff trunk? Cutting wedges to bend easier?
 

Trimaptim

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And does anyone have any pointers on the design of the tree as an informal upright/slanted? I have cascading and semi cascading junipers, I have formal uprights, I'm wanting opinions on branch placement, foliage pads, things to think about for the design.
 

choppychoppy

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I meant for me and what I know how to do, it's a bit out of reach. How would you go about bending such a thick and stiff trunk? Cutting wedges to bend easier?

You don't need to 'cut wedges' just raffia and wire.
 

Shibui

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And does anyone have any pointers on the design of the tree as an informal upright/slanted?
It is a pity you have removed any growth closer to the trunk on the lower branches - (yellow lines). that would have been valuable to shorten those for a leaning tree.
I would immediately remove the eye poking front branch (red)
Black line is an optional removal. Either of those top branches can be good apex but the upright one will need to be wired and flattened a bit.
Lower the left branch and make separate foliage pads because there's not much else on that side.
Hopefully there's some back foliage available around the blue circle. Bonsai really need rear branches for 3D depth. Ideally shorter than side branches so wire bends to reduce length if needed.
Unsure about the right branches without seeing it in the flesh. It could be styled without right branches IMHO but some growth there will provide some balance if that's possible. Short would be better I think. Maybe one of the existing branches can be wired and bent to reduce length?

I also see another alternative apex: jin the top down to the upper right branch making it the new apex. That reduces the height a bit which will add to visual thickness and bring the top back closer to the base making it technically informal upright. Upper jin might even extend down the trunk on the right to explain the lack of branches on that side. You will now have a 3 branch bonsai. Less can be more in bonsai.
 

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Trimaptim

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It is a pity you have removed any growth closer to the trunk on the lower branches - (yellow lines). that would have been valuable to shorten those for a leaning tree.
I would immediately remove the eye poking front branch (red)
Black line is an optional removal. Either of those top branches can be good apex but the upright one will need to be wired and flattened a bit.
Lower the left branch and make separate foliage pads because there's not much else on that side.
Hopefully there's some back foliage available around the blue circle. Bonsai really need rear branches for 3D depth. Ideally shorter than side branches so wire bends to reduce length if needed.
Unsure about the right branches without seeing it in the flesh. It could be styled without right branches IMHO but some growth there will provide some balance if that's possible. Short would be better I think. Maybe one of the existing branches can be wired and bent to reduce length?

I also see another alternative apex: jin the top down to the upper right branch making it the new apex. That reduces the height a bit which will add to visual thickness and bring the top back closer to the base making it technically informal upright. Upper jin might even extend down the trunk on the right to explain the lack of branches on that side. You will now have a 3 branch bonsai. Less can be more in bonsai.
Thanks for the ideas. That red circled one is going to be cut and jinned. I am leaving it for the time being to thicken up some first before its done. But good thoughts on the Apex.
 

Vin

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You're putting way too much thought into this tree at the moment. You've done a lot of work to it. You should just put it to the side and care for it as explained earlier. If it (and or what parts) lives you can decide on a path in time and even that will change a half dozen times before you actually commit to it. By the way, we don't even know your location which can help with aftercare advice. Start working on another project and stare at this one from time to time. Hope it makes it.
 
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