Which of these J maple cultivars are the most resilient/tolerant to direct/full sunlight? …ranked from Most to Least?

エドガー

Shohin
Messages
492
Reaction score
300
Location
Orange County, CA
Also wanted to know... whom in hot & dry SoCal has had success with J maples and kept them healthy and happy? Any tips for J maples in SoCal?

Note: I am not inland (inland is super hot). I am more closer to the coast, very close to the 5/405 freeways/highways.
 
Messages
307
Reaction score
1,303
Location
Ventura, CA
USDA Zone
9B
Only ones i've seen grow well in SoCal are near the coastal cities. Away from the heat. 405 and the 5 is a pretty hot area I thought. I'm in Thousand Oaks and my one JM hates it here. Although right down into Camarillo they do very well.
I think Roy @ Fuji Bonsai only sells tridents. I don't think any of the benches he rents out have JM either.
 

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,724
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Also wanted to know... whom in hot & dry SoCal has had success with J maples and kept them healthy and happy? Any tips for J maples in SoCal?

Note: I am not inland (inland is super hot). I am more closer to the coast, very close to the 5/405 freeways/highways.
Being you live near that junction why don't you consider talking with Vicki Lee at House of Bonsai. I am sure she could answer any problems you may have.
 

エドガー

Shohin
Messages
492
Reaction score
300
Location
Orange County, CA
Only ones i've seen grow well in SoCal are near the coastal cities. Away from the heat. 405 and the 5 is a pretty hot area I thought. I'm in Thousand Oaks and my one JM hates it here. Although right down into Camarillo they do very well.
I think Roy @ Fuji Bonsai only sells tridents. I don't think any of the benches he rents out have JM either.

I'm in south OC, Mission Viejo, maybe the same distance from the coast as you. It's a bit cooler here than north OC and LA.. and I've noticed we don't get as much "urban heat island" effect as LA or north OC that has more concrete, freeways, buildings and larger human population. But, it's def still hot and dry here compared to elsewhere in the US.
 

エドガー

Shohin
Messages
492
Reaction score
300
Location
Orange County, CA
Being you live near that junction why don't you consider talking with Vicki Lee at House of Bonsai. I am sure she could answer any problems you may have.

I don't really have any problems (yet)... I was just wondering/curious who has success with them in SoCal and also which cultivars are best suited for SoCal. More of a precaution I guess.

Is Vicki the older sassy (some people think rude) owner? I've been there once, and she taught me how to plant niwaki JBP and I bought some soils from her. I also call on occasion if she has certain trees available. Cool place.. I like it very much and think she's funny. I can't afford to always go there though, lol.

I actually got into J maples because of her website's J maple stocks/description (although they are out of stock atm).. so, I got a kiyo-hime and katsura because they're listed on her site. Then after, I also got a shishigashira and golden full moon after getting more into J maples. (I've also had 2 red dragons before all of them though, from Home Depot)
 

Smoke

Ignore-Amus
Messages
11,668
Reaction score
20,724
Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
Yes sassy, that is a good description. I have known her for 35 years and she still looks the same!

The bigg daddy of the forum Greg (@Bonsai Nut ) talks about the inability to keep Japanese maples in Orange County also. I don't know if its water, or wind or sun that is the problem. I live 200 miles north in Fresno where the humidity is about 20 percent and the heat index on any given day is about 101.

This part of my yard is full sun from 8 AM til 8PM. All the trees in Red are maples, in full sun here all day. I don't think it's the heat.

red.jpg
 

エドガー

Shohin
Messages
492
Reaction score
300
Location
Orange County, CA
The bigg daddy of the forum Greg (@Bonsai Nut ) talks about the inability to keep Japanese maples in Orange County also. I don't know if its water, or wind or sun that is the problem.

Yes, he's actually the reason of my concern, lol... he replied to one of my posts and said he has a tough time keeping JMs alive in OC.

My old lady neighbor used to have Red Dragons similar to mine a few decades ago, and said they died due to being in a pot and a nursery worker told her that maybe too much sodium buildup perhaps (I don't think she's that knowledgable in plants though, maybe a typical suburban Home Depot type of gardener... esp compared to people here or bonsai people). But, she has 2-3 other JMs she's had for decades, green small-leaf upright (idk exact cultivar), in her sideyard (partially shaded from houses) that is thriving and very vigorous, big and around 8-10' tall, and seem happy there.
 
Last edited:

Borko

Seedling
Messages
15
Reaction score
15
Location
Europe , Serbia , Belgrade
USDA Zone
7
I'm betting that you have abnormally high humidity. JM have very thin leaves and I speculate their thin-branch-to-leaf-surface ratio limits their ability to transpire enough in full afternoon sun when humidity is low. My Lionshead gets full sun almost all day, but the contorted shape of the leaf is such that 50% of the leaf is shaded by itself at all times (rotating surfaces exposed through the day). It might be instructive to know your location, if you're not incognito...
Hi , i am from Serbia, Belgrade (Europe)
I have humidity sensor outside. Moisture sensor in the yard shows moisture values between 45-80%. the main value is around 60. There was a lot of rain this year and moisture was very often about 80%. It's very possible that you are right about moisture and that this is why my leaf does not burn.

Sango may not be a good example but I have:

Atropurpureum
Sango kaku
Garnet
Shaina
Orange dream
Shindeshojo
Beni Maiko
shirasawanum Jordan (full moon)
Emerald Lace
Acer palmatum basic species
Twomblys Red Sentinel
Tsumagaki
 
D

Deleted member 21616

Guest
In my yard Shishigashira and Kotohime are fine in full sun.

Can I please ask how long you have had them for, and are they planted in the ground?

I have had trouble with both species burning in the sun in 5b/a where I am! (in landscape and bonsai pots)
 

augustine

Chumono
Messages
755
Reaction score
553
Location
Pasadena, MD
USDA Zone
7A
Hi,

I've had shishigashira for about 6 years and about 5 years for the other. They are in training containers (but not too big). One factor is that my yard is grass so not as hot as concrete. When it gets real hot I place them on the ground in partial shade.

Maybe your particular maples don't like full sunlight, secondly microclimates are variable and my yard may have better conditions.
 
D

Deleted member 21616

Guest
Hi,

I've had shishigashira for about 6 years and about 5 years for the other. They are in training containers (but not too big). One factor is that my yard is grass so not as hot as concrete. When it gets real hot I place them on the ground in partial shade.

Maybe your particular maples don't like full sunlight, secondly microclimates are variable and my yard may have better conditions.

wow that’s great news, and good ideas!

There is hope!

how is the fall coloration? do the leaves crisp uo before then?
 
Messages
287
Reaction score
192
Location
Delano, California
USDA Zone
9b
This is my first year having maples. Both red and green maples. Not sure what cultivar also have kotohime.

Right now we are hitting 90's and all my trees are under a big tree(pear tree). All growing like a weed and i notice very minimal sunburn but not a big deal. My trident is taking the 90's at full blast all day.. so far its doing good. Lets see when we hit the 105's degrees. 😎🍁
 

zeejet

Sapling
Messages
48
Reaction score
27
Location
San Diego [Coastal]
USDA Zone
10b
I know this is an old thread, but figured worth reviving instead of creating a ne wone.

I'm a beginner and currently have 3 JM's (an atropurpeum with dense growth habit and a larger atro 'Novum' with larger growth habit along with an oride nishiki). I live in San Diego and just 5 miles from the ocean. Mild summers, mild winters, but strong summer sunlight. Moderate humidity (50-70% year round except during Santa Anas). My balcony is southwest facing so a ton of harsh sun mid day through the afternoon.

@エドガー How have your maples faired since this thread was posted? I am in similar climate as you although slightly closer to the ocean. Any insights on cultivation?
 

エドガー

Shohin
Messages
492
Reaction score
300
Location
Orange County, CA
I know this is an old thread, but figured worth reviving instead of creating a ne wone.

I'm a beginner and currently have 3 JM's (an atropurpeum with dense growth habit and a larger atro 'Novum' with larger growth habit along with an oride nishiki). I live in San Diego and just 5 miles from the ocean. Mild summers, mild winters, but strong summer sunlight. Moderate humidity (50-70% year round except during Santa Anas). My balcony is southwest facing so a ton of harsh sun mid day through the afternoon.

@エドガー How have your maples faired since this thread was posted? I am in similar climate as you although slightly closer to the ocean. Any insights on cultivation?

I've found that they are pretty resilient, even in dry & hot SoCal, just as long as they are placed in some shade. Mine are in the sideyard or close to north facing walls.

They'll still get leaf scorch after heatwaves, or dry/worn leaves after the growing season & summer (I think that's normal)... but, at least they're surviving and do decently well. Vigorous & healthy actually.

Can't say the same for some satsuki & kurume azaleas starter-plants and cuttings I've tried/failed with, lol. Those ones are super sensitive and def struggle in dry SoCal. I've killed maybe a hundred of them (mostly rooted cuttings... but even older 1gal starter-plants I bought eventually died).
 

hardtimes

Mame
Messages
154
Reaction score
300
Location
Coastal S. California
USDA Zone
10a
My regular green maples have been the most resilient by far. one I got from jonsteens didnt get any scorch at all. mikawa yastubusa is also really good. I got murasaki kiyohime last year and it started getting crispy immediately the day i got it. it came from mendocino maples, it might just have to get acclimated here but then again they did say that it was one of the more heat tolerant maples. I love maples, I'd take any recommendations if you have any.

I spoke to Vicki from House of Bonsai recently, she said that she sprays a product during heat waves that helps with leaf burn for the azaleas and maples that she sells. She was out of stock at the moment so I dont know exactly which product it is but she did mention bonide, maybe its this one


this one might be good too

 

zeejet

Sapling
Messages
48
Reaction score
27
Location
San Diego [Coastal]
USDA Zone
10b
I've found that they are pretty resilient, even in dry & hot SoCal, just as long as they are placed in some shade. Mine are in the sideyard or close to north facing walls.

They'll still get leaf scorch after heatwaves, or dry/worn leaves after the growing season & summer (I think that's normal)... but, at least they're surviving and do decently well. Vigorous & healthy actually.

Can't say the same for some satsuki & kurume azaleas starter-plants and cuttings I've tried/failed with, lol. Those ones are super sensitive and def struggle in dry SoCal. I've killed maybe a hundred of them (mostly rooted cuttings... but even older 1gal starter-plants I bought eventually died).
Good to hear! I was actually more afraid of the lack of dormancy killing JM's over the course of a few season (temps in SoCal near the coast rarely dip below 45F in winter). Temperatures here aren't bad - just the amount of direct sun, which I have shade cloth for.

I think I can live with a bit of scorch if it does happen - the spring foliage is beautiful enough to keep me committed.
My regular green maples have been the most resilient by far. one I got from jonsteens didnt get any scorch at all. mikawa yastubusa is also really good. I got murasaki kiyohime last year and it started getting crispy immediately the day i got it. it came from mendocino maples, it might just have to get acclimated here but then again they did say that it was one of the more heat tolerant maples. I love maples, I'd take any recommendations if you have any.

I spoke to Vicki from House of Bonsai recently, she said that she sprays a product during heat waves that helps with leaf burn for the azaleas and maples that she sells. She was out of stock at the moment so I dont know exactly which product it is but she did mention bonide, maybe its this one


this one might be good too

Haha, I was there today actually (took a day trip to LA county) was recommended a similar product.

Mikawas are one of the few varieties available as seedlings and ungrafted (online and at nurseries). For other varieties ungrafted, check out Evergreen Gardenworks. The only bummer is that Brent (owner of EG) only stocks small starter plants (gallon size is the largest he offers, which ranges from 3/8"-5/8" depending on species). I think it's because demand is so high and he rarely has enough to let grow. He does offer large specimens as well but they are much pricier of course.

House of Bonsai had decent pricing on prebonsai but if maples are what you're seeking, the Mikawa is the only non-generic Acer palmatums they stock as ungrafted. Everything else is grafted - they claim that specialty varieties are horticulturally inferior and won't survive without grafts, which I'm not convinced is accurate at this time. I think it's marketing/salesmanship as it's quite hard to find ungrafted specialty varieties propagated from cuttings as they have a low success rate that make them infeasible commercially.

I'm now more confident that JM's are possible here and aiming to obtain a Shindeshojo, Kiyohime, and Sharp's Pygmy (all good bonsai candidates with relatively heat tolerant compared to other varieties). HoB has slightly more mature Sharps Pygmy's with very clean grafts (unlike the other varieties offered which are very ugly).
 
Top Bottom