1st hemlock - Tsuga canadensis 'Golden Splendor'

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
I've been looking all month, even trying to get a local nursery to accept a shipment from Monrovia
which the stuck up broad refused to accept, or to include in her Spring order. She's rich...
"I'm NOT going to be an Amazon drop point! she exclaimed...and I give her $300 for a JM Viridis last Summer :( ok
Just had to put that out there. No reason to drive across the river for plants this year :p hate the traffic any way.

Did a late night search on eBay and found this one just 3 days before the auction ended and was the 2nd one he sold this week.
Cant get any reply so no idea how cold it's been this Winter, but it is a 2 year graft to the species.
DSC_3910.JPGDSC_3912.JPG

It will be sunny tomorrow, so I'll get better pics up of it then move it back into the shade. Sun had set with this pic in an already shady area.
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Rather excited about this one. I love golden foliage especially my Hinoki which looks like a Lynns Golden.
It just is the brightest stand out tree on the bench, and looks like it is plugged in and turned on in twilight,
but that's another species altogether and appears to have a bit of cream/white outside the green fronds.

This is my 1st Tsuga. I recently was inclined to take up the species despite my dislike of yard work around them
(we had over 50 on our property where I grew up collected from a family farm across the river in Ohio)
after seeing @ABCarve and @MrFancyPlants bonsai projects. Inspiring. Thank you.
@dirk hoorelbeke don't you have some experience with hemlock?
I could use some good pointers if this is ok to wire now heading into Spring, when to prune how much?
Bonsai4me suggests hard pruning now late Winter. I just need to be extra cautious with the graft.
 
Messages
1,960
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Coastal S.C.
USDA Zone
8b
Seasonally wiring and pruning in the winter is fine, however I think I would focus on generating growth / over pruning, and being careful with the graft over wiring. I not saying “don’t do it”, but be conservative until you get some solid growth. I’m thinking the golden cultivar probably develops slower than a wild type.
If it were my tree, I would identify some branches in good places for sacrifice growth, tag them now and let them run so you can keep the growth further in on your design by pruning. I would also consider letting the roots escape some, either in a pond basket in the ground or with nested pots. My brother in law from Brasil, who has been studying bonsai a lot, swears by nesting 2 or even three pots. I can’t speak for the results yet, but I did try one to see if the nebari development is as amazing as claimed. I tried with 2 pots, as I can’t overcome the skepticism about having three pots. It would be funny if by next time he came to visit I had a tree in 7 nested pots.
So my recommendation. Focus on growth first. Select sacrifices. Then tackle the roots next, to establish a good base. Then let escape in some form to accelerate development.
How does the graft look? Can we get a close up?
 

ABCarve

Masterpiece
Messages
2,676
Reaction score
11,452
Location
Girard, PA
USDA Zone
5a
Grafted material can be problematic if not well executed. Swelling at the junction point can make an attractive trunk impossible, although there are plenty of great bonsai trees that have been grafted.
I believe in progressively bigger pots for trunk development. I’ve found they are hard to control in the ground. I would only remove branches that obviously won’t work in any design. This translates to none to very few. I know it’s hard to do, but........let it grow. Try to enjoy the tree for its simple beauty for a few years. As it develops design choices will become more obvious.
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Seasonally wiring and pruning in the winter is fine, however I think I would focus on generating growth / over pruning, and being careful with the graft over wiring. I not saying “don’t do it”, but be conservative until you get some solid growth. I’m thinking the golden cultivar probably develops slower than a wild type.
If it were my tree, I would identify some branches in good places for sacrifice growth, tag them now and let them run so you can keep the growth further in on your design by pruning. I would also consider letting the roots escape some, either in a pond basket in the ground or with nested pots. My brother in law from Brasil, who has been studying bonsai a lot, swears by nesting 2 or even three pots. I can’t speak for the results yet, but I did try one to see if the nebari development is as amazing as claimed. I tried with 2 pots, as I can’t overcome the skepticism about having three pots. It would be funny if by next time he came to visit I had a tree in 7 nested pots.
So my recommendation. Focus on growth first. Select sacrifices. Then tackle the roots next, to establish a good base. Then let escape in some form to accelerate development.
How does the graft look? Can we get a close up?
Yes I planned to get better pics in the Sunlight today.
Above pics were taken just after 5 days in transit in a protected area.
No idea why it took so long to get from NJ to here, the snow should not have been a factor
but if a postage due clerk had to check it out, may've set it back the extra 3 days? IDK.

So you are advocating my gut instinct to chop and grow out?

Yes a bit slower than the species at 25-40' at maturity, depending on data source...
The good side of the graft was pictured in the listing not the back side shown below.
I'm hoping from what I saw in the listing that it is low enough to only show some taper
and not a swelling 5, 10 years from now, like some JM do in the landscape.

I'm skeptical of the stacked pots too. Thanks for the reply!
DSC_3918.JPG DSC_3920.JPG DSC_3916.JPG DSC_3921.JPG DSC_3922.JPG DSC_3923.JPG DSC_3924.JPG
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Grafted material can be problematic if not well executed. Swelling at the junction point can make an attractive trunk impossible, although there are plenty of great bonsai trees that have been grafted.
I believe in progressively bigger pots for trunk development. I’ve found they are hard to control in the ground. I would only remove branches that obviously won’t work in any design. This translates to none to very few. I know it’s hard to do, but........let it grow. Try to enjoy the tree for its simple beauty for a few years. As it develops design choices will become more obvious.
Ok, so I know grafted is not ideal for bonsai, perhaps it will be a bit more healthy going forward than if it were on its' own roots.
Would be a + if they layered...
My plan would be to prune hard now, including reducing branches I'm going to keep back to a junction
and other branches...further, to see how they may react since hemlock is often sheared back to keep a smaller form
in the landscape, but surely there are junctions inside of the cuts.

[I'm talking about cutting sacrifice branches back to
new-ish growth that has not hardened off, but inside of any obvious buds or junctions to see how the tree reacts.
(some, not all of them)
It's a 2 year graft, and the soil is pretty loose, so not an abundant amount of vigour, but per species, leader is healthy.
I like the idea of cutting back now to advocate interior ramification, then, allowing it to grow out and repeat.
If it (and it should) grow good this year, inspect the roots next Spring, and blend existing soil with inorganic
potting up bigger, and maybe keeping that pot/can healed in the ground next year.]
Any thoughts on this plan?
 
Messages
1,960
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Coastal S.C.
USDA Zone
8b
I don’t think a chop is required as that would slow down the growing out part.. and sacrifices can help you get the taper without slowing it down.

The graft looks bad at this point, but maybe it will grow out better. I haven’t tried an air layer yet with hemlock, but ground layer could help, or root grafting.
 
Messages
1,960
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Coastal S.C.
USDA Zone
8b
Ok, so I know grafted is not ideal for bonsai, perhaps it will be a bit more healthy going forward than if it were on its' own roots.
Would be a + if they layered...
My plan would be to prune hard now, including reducing branches I'm going to keep back to a junction
and other branches...further, to see how they may react since hemlock is often sheared back to keep a smaller form
in the landscape, but surely there are junctions inside of the cuts.

[I'm talking about cutting sacrifice branches back to
new-ish growth that has not hardened off, but inside of any obvious buds or junctions to see how the tree reacts.
(some, not all of them)
It's a 2 year graft, and the soil is pretty loose, so not an abundant amount of vigour, but per species, leader is healthy.
I like the idea of cutting back now to advocate interior ramification, then, allowing it to grow out and repeat.
If it (and it should) grow good this year, inspect the roots next Spring, and blend existing soil with inorganic
potting up bigger, and maybe keeping that pot/can healed in the ground next year.]
Any thoughts on this plan?
For sacrifice management, I really let them run, maybe taking off the interior growth to prevent shading. Once the growth gets out there it is easier to work the interior design.
My pruning now would be:
1. take off some branches that would not be suitable as sacrifice and have no place in the final design.
2. Remove some interior growth on the sacrifice to differentiate.. maybe colored tape or a tag if the growth isn’t far out enough. At least one sacrifice near the base and one at the top, and one in the middle will develop taper.
3. Wait until spring to lightly trim growth on final design to encourage ramification, inner growth, etc.
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
For sacrifice management, I really let them run, maybe taking off the interior growth to prevent shading. Once the growth gets out there it is easier to work the interior design.
My pruning now would be:
1. take off some branches that would not be suitable as sacrifice and have no place in the final design.
2. Remove some interior growth on the sacrifice to differentiate.. maybe colored tape or a tag if the growth isn’t far out enough. At least one sacrifice near the base and one at the top, and one in the middle will develop taper.
3. Wait until spring to lightly trim growth on final design to encourage ramification, inner growth, etc.
Hah, I broke the shoulder of the middle so called sacrifice, but it did not work into final design
as it is oversized compared to its' alternate or adjacent branch. How do I know it doesn't fit in the final design?
Well, it could be pruned back allowing others to run and thicken yes, so the others catch up in girth, busting the
doesnt fit in the final design theory, but I think selecting this thicker branch for removal is fitting. See what you think.
I super glued the shoulder back in place, so it may heal, the opposite end of the wire ends up on the desired new apex.

Going into Spring I intentionally placed the wire loosely, but is copper and will hold here.
DSC_3931.JPG
My index finger rests on the mended branch that separated at the shoulder. Cant rotate/twist it any at this time.
The back branch my finger is pointing at, is the intended new apex, but options are on the table in time I'm sure.
DSC_3928.JPG


DSC_3929.JPG

I was able to spiral #10 copper wire loosely and put in a 360+º twist in the trunk, but that includes sacrifice, less in the bottom 1/3.
I had to back off of the twist after the fact to position placement which shows in the very loose wire, but that is where the majority
of the twist is placed, just below the mid section of the final 12" ? tree, with more twist above.
Just have to grow this much out and see what it gives.

I had a better placement for that broken branch in mind, but wiring method did not pan out.
I should have just secured to the trunk, not a weak opposing branch that also needs direction for the apex.
That's why it broke. Branch was to be removed any way...so good material to learn breaking points on.
Probably won't be my last, but is why I want to wire this out young and most supple it will ever be.
Hemlock gets very brittle, and is another reason I hated doing yard work around them. Broken branches not tended to
become quite dangerous for the eyes and draw blood when you back into them. Species are great climbing trees though.
 
Last edited:
Messages
1,654
Reaction score
2,535
Location
Belgium
Sorry, I do not own a hemlock. This material is young so let is grow and cut back with some escape branches from time to time. It's not easy material, but the foliage is lovely. Have fun...
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Sorry, I do not own a hemlock. This material is young so let is grow and cut back with some escape branches from time to time. It's not easy material, but the foliage is lovely. Have fun...
After I posted that with you tagged, I realised it was probably yew I was thinking of. They have their similarities.
Yup young stick in pot. Hoping being young I put bends and keep branches where I want them.
Why do you say not easy material?
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Hemlock, especially Tsuga canadensis, can be propagated by cuttings and air layers. When you shop, it is possible to find trees without grafts. It also would be possible at some point to air layers off branches. Possibly the trunk too.
Thanks Leo. I was lucky to find this graft. Not a popular cultivar I reckon.
The top is sacrifice, so eventually will give that a go. If canadensis take by cuttings
hopefully not as fussy as juniper is for me.
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
Messages
4,709
Reaction score
12,609
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
USDA Zone
8b
Thanks Leo. I was lucky to find this graft. Not a popular cultivar I reckon.
The top is sacrifice, so eventually will give that a go. If canadensis take by cuttings
hopefully not as fussy as juniper is for me.
Do not remove interior growth, hemlock do not back bud reliably if at all! Do everything you can to preserve and maintain interior buds and branches!
Always cut back to buds!
Wire loosely using the cage effect on new growth!
Be cautious with root work.
Provide partial shade for better color and healthier growth.
Do not let them dry out, prefer to be kept moist.
Adapt very well to inorganic soil and organic fertilizer.
Healthy tree can fill a pot with new roots in three years once adapted.
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
DSC_4713.JPGDSC_4714.JPGDSC_4715.JPG
The wire is biting in :) Taking off now. Placed in the Sun for a couple pictures. Gonna be a slow filler upper/outer.
Plans are to repot next year beginning transition to a more rather inorganic soil.
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
DSC_6343.JPGDSC_6346.JPGDSC_6347.JPGDSC_6348.JPGDSC_6349.JPGDSC_6350.JPGDSC_6351.JPGDSC_6352.JPG
I hated seeing this in the nursery can any longer. Let it dry to point of needing water today and potted it into a pond basket.

Thought I only removed 50% of the roots and soil, then I gently raked out the top roots just enough to get
reaffirm a lateral direction of the top roots, not much at all. The roots on this are much like my juniper
and entirely different from the dwarf canadensis Jeddeloh next to it on the bench here.

The graft union is on the back side and near the surface :) It will grow over just fine in not too many years unaware.
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
Messages
4,709
Reaction score
12,609
Location
Vancouver Island, British Columbia
USDA Zone
8b
View attachment 372192View attachment 372193View attachment 372194View attachment 372195View attachment 372196View attachment 372197View attachment 372198View attachment 372199
I hated seeing this in the nursery can any longer. Let it dry to point of needing water today and potted it into a pond basket.

Thought I only removed 50% of the roots and soil, then I gently raked out the top roots just enough to get
reaffirm a lateral direction of the top roots, not much at all. The roots on this are much like my juniper
and entirely different from the dwarf canadensis Jeddeloh next to it on the bench here.

The graft union is on the back side and near the surface :) It will grow over just fine in not too many years unaware.
Important to note that discussion of repotting and root formation varies significantly between older collected trees and young nursery stock. Apples and Oranges discussion. Otherwise could be very confusing for some.
 
Messages
1,960
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Coastal S.C.
USDA Zone
8b
Any update? I like the mini one too. It still has natural looking growth.did you ever get seeds from the cone?
 

Japonicus

Masterpiece
Messages
4,870
Reaction score
7,429
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Any update? I like the mini one too. It still has natural looking growth.did you ever get seeds from the cone?
Not really any update. It has grown some, but not quite enough to erase all wire tracks yet.
The golden part is indeed splendid, but something is attacking all of my pines, and other conifers
but not the junipers.
DSC_8703.JPG
No idea what's getting at my trees, but it started with losing two of three JWP seedlings I got this year.
The top of the third one died, and growth stunted, so soil staying moist forever. I suspect it too will die.
DSC_8699.JPG


DSC_8700.JPG
DSC_8701.JPG
I also got this Everitts Golden. All three enjoy the pond baskets, but all three show "minor" signs of damage
from whatever is attacking my pines. The Everitts is a bit more compact and less leggy.
I did not try to collect any seed.
 
Top Bottom