EUROPEAN HORNBEAM

MACH5

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Thank goodness for big mica pots! Would hate to stop everything in mid bare root to hastily construct another box!

Yeah... so that's exactly what happened here! I ordered a mica pot that I thought would be just the right size. Well it was too small. I thought about building another box for it but I was determined to get it this time into a pot. So the tree sat bare rooted in plastic and wet newspapers for four days until I got shipped another mica pot of the right size. :eek:
 

Scorr

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Great post. Any updates on this awesome tree?
 

MACH5

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Today's work. Hornbeam tends to retain most of its leaves through the winter months. Taking each leaf off by hand can be a long and tedious process specially on large trees like this one. But somehow today I found it to be almost therapeutic. The crinkling noise of the dried leaves as I moved through the twigs and branches had an undeniable calming effect.

I made some big decisions and drastically cut back some of the original branching that was just too thick. You may ask why not do this from the get go but sometimes I like to wait and see how a tree develops to help me with my subsequent steps in the development process.

No wiring was done yet. Probably will pick this work up again in the next few weeks.

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A large chunk was sawed off at the very top of the left trunk which greatly improved the taper. I counted the rings and that tip alone was roughly twenty years old.

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August44

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Hi Sergio. Nice, nice tree. I had the same leaf stay on problem with hornbeam and beach. Sucked them off with a shop vac!
 

leatherback

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Haha, you cut off a section the size of the largest hornbeam I have here.
Sooo frustrating see you with these amazing specimens. :)
Keep sharing, please!
 

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Mach, what were the determining factors which made you deviate away from this angle? i was really looking forwards to seeing the virtual pan out, when you posted the last update i was discussing it with Conordash...

on this new angle, my eye keeps getting drawn to this section here in red, im kinda guessing you opted for the side with better rootspread and less thickness in the upper trunk.

the virt reminded me of a tree in my files.
 

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Lars Grimm

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Today's work. Hornbeam tends to retain most of its leaves through the winter months. Taking each leaf off by hand can be a long and tedious process specially on large trees like this one. But somehow today I found it to be almost therapeutic. The crinkling noise of the dried leaves as I moved through the twigs and branches had an undeniable calming effect.

I made some big decisions and drastically cut back some of the original branching that was just too thick. You may ask why not do this from the get go but sometimes I like to wait and see how a tree develops to help me with my subsequent steps in the development process.

No wiring was done yet. Probably will pick this work up again in the next few weeks.

View attachment 349008

View attachment 349015

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View attachment 349012

View attachment 349019




A large chunk was sawed off at the very top of the left trunk which greatly improved the taper. I counted the rings and that tip alone was roughly twenty years old.

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View attachment 349014
Looking great. What are your plans for dealing with the large cut sites? I have had very poor luck healing over large chop sites on american hornbeam.
 

MACH5

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Hi Sergio. Nice, nice tree. I had the same leaf stay on problem with hornbeam and beach. Sucked them off with a shop vac!

Thanks Peter! Hmmm well I think mine is much more stubborn as they only way to get the leaves off is either pulling them off by hand or with scissors.
 

MACH5

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Mach, what were the determining factors which made you deviate away from this angle? i was really looking forwards to seeing the virtual pan out, when you posted the last update i was discussing it with Conordash...

on this new angle, my eye keeps getting drawn to this section here in red, im kinda guessing you opted for the side with better rootspread and less thickness in the upper trunk.

the virt reminded me of a tree in my files.

Bobby, although the view you are referencing is still at play, I am beginning to be quite partial to the one I am showing now. While the base is indeed better from this angle, the overall stance and movement in my view is also greater and speaks to its overall powerful character. By comparison, the other view feels rather gentle and more sedate.
 

MACH5

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Looking great. What are your plans for dealing with the large cut sites? I have had very poor luck healing over large chop sites on american hornbeam.

Thanks Lars. The plan is to carve them and let nature take its course. I think the overall character of the tree can accept these large hollows as part of its design. Thinking of much like what you might see on a tree from Walter, Bobby Lane, Marija Hajdic, etc. Anything about an inch or less I will treat to close.
 

Lars Grimm

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Thanks Lars. The plan is to carve them and let nature take its course. I think the overall character of the tree can accept these large hollows as part of its design. Thinking of much like what you might see on a tree from Walter, Bobby Lane, Marija Hajdic, etc. Anything about an inch or less I will treat to close.
Have you considered roughly hollowing and then packing with sphagnum moss to accelerate the rot? Ryan makes reference to it in a recent video. I've debating using this technique in one of my trees, but I haven't seen any actual results from it just theoretical discussions.
 

BobbyLane

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Bobby, although the view you are referencing is still at play, I am beginning to be quite partial to the one I am showing now. While the base is indeed better from this angle, the overall stance and movement in my view is also greater and speaks to its overall powerful character. By comparison, the other view feels rather gentle and more sedate.

All valid reasoning Mach, the great thing about material like this is you can mould it to look great from multiple angles. its nice when you can rotate a tree throughout the season and not get bored of it.
 

leatherback

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Have you considered roughly hollowing and then packing with sphagnum moss to accelerate the rot? Ryan makes reference to it in a recent video. I've debating using this technique in one of my trees, but I haven't seen any actual results from it just theoretical discussions.
it is a valid technique. Tony Tickle was doing this decades ago with some of his well known hawthorns.
 

BobbyLane

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Walter had a Rowan tree where he stuck some moss in the hollow to speed up the rot, its on his blog.
if you really want to accelerate the process, stick the spag moss in then encourage live moss to grow on top of that. or better still just hollow it out deeper!;)
 

MACH5

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Indeed an interesting technique with the sphagnum moss. My plan it to carve it decisively and not be timid. Want to ensure these hollows are noticeable and part of the overall design. However, I do not want to get too artsy or fancy with it. Just prefer to let nature take over.
 
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