Search results

Hi all: One of my JWP ("zuisho") seems to be a little sick. Specifically, one of the branches looks like the tips of the needles are brown/shriveled. More generally, the tree seems a little less healthy and vigorous overall than all my other zuisho's, and what I'm used to from them...

I think it's hard to say whether the difference between the two candle pruning techniques is responsible for the difference in observed vigor after decandling -- or whether it's due to other factors (like the weather, or the amount of fertilizer residue built up in the soil, or the amount of...

HazMatt: you might want to put your location in your bonsai nut profile. Whenever you post again in a different thread, people will likely ask where you are from , as that will modify their answers sometimes (as it would for your question about tree digging), but they may not know to refer to...

Dave, thanks so much for posting this. Can you talk a little bit about your "cycle" for working with junipers? What made you decide to prune now, but style in the fall? Is that splitting up of the work done for the health of the tree? Because it's better to wiring just before it goes...

I started three airlayers on a cork bark chinese elm about 6 weeks ago. All the previous air layers I've done were on pines, spruce, ume, or oaks, and all were left on for at least six months before being ready for removal. However, with these elm layers, fat white roots are pushing out...

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/12/opinion/why-trees-matter.html?hp

Just to add to the information on Serissa -- when I was traveling in Qinghai province in the PRC last summer, I came across a penjing stall at the main flower market in the provincial capital (Xining) that was selling (among other things) some beautiful serissas. I was surprised, since Qinghai...

Hi all: I have some newly repotted trident maple saplings (< 2ft tall). Last night temperatures hit mid 20s here in Massachusetts. Not paying as close attention to the weather as I should have, I just left the trees outside during the overnight hard frost. Over the past few weeks of warm...

Yeah, clonex is easy to get online; (so far) seems to have worked quite well in comparison to the powder stuff.

In Nov. 2010 I received a 2' tall Hondo spruce (P. jezoensis hondoensis) from Brent Walston at Evergreen. The tree had a 4" gap halfway up the trunk that was devoid of branches, a design obstacle that wouldn't be left on the tree. More to practice the technique than through any hope it would...

wonderful!

Thanks everyone for all the advice. It seems the consensus is to not overwater and keep in partial shade. @rockm -- so you're saying, it's basically a response to massive overwatering? (One thing that makes me think s it is windburn is that the damage is almost entirely to leaves on the...

During the recent hurricane to hit the East coast of the US, a number of my trees experienced what I think is severe windburn. (The trees were put in an area that we thought would be very protected, but apparently it wasn't enough.) Evergreens seemed hardly affected, but deciduous trees...

@brian, very helpful thanks ... do you use Bionide?

Brian -- you recommend to apply copper fungicide as new buds are forming. E.g. (for those tree that have been candled) around now. I have also read other places that some fungicides, e.g. lime sulphur could hurt forming buds. Is it that copper doesn't hurt young buds, while lime sulphur does?

You might also find this thread from a tropical bonsai forum useful: http://tropicalbonsai.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-332.html

Woody -- You might also think about asking Taiwanese growers if you know any. They grow excellent JBP there, and the climate is quite similar to the one you described.

I have several corkbarks that have been repotted this year. I would say I did moderate root pruning, but certainly not heavy root pruning. In contrast to your reports about trees that have been root pruned heavilg, these trees have been consistently pushing new shoots immediately after...

Sorry -- I didn't read the thread carefully enough -- indeed you know all about Papa Kaneshiro. I would think that since you're actually in Australia, the person you should look to for advice might by Lindsay Farr. He also seems to grow excellent JBPs, though he's in Melbourne area.

At least some people grow JBP very successfuly in hawaii -- have a look at this great video by Linsday Farr about Papa Kaneshiro ... http://vimeo.com/3466073 I don't know if he's in a particularly cold area of Hawaii, but he seems to have no trouble.

John, that's really helpful .... Do you know where I might find these issues? -- Int'l Bonsai doesn't seem to sell back issues that far back, and the only Bonsai Today I was able to find on Stone Lantern was #50. (I'll ask later today if Hitoshi has some of them at NEBG? I could even...

Right ... sorry for the confusion in the name. I had already ready Brent's statement on the issue in his plant catalog, but I came away from reading it under the impression that the "usual" reference of "Ezo spruce" is in fact P. glehnii, aka "Sakhalin spruce" (although the Sakhalin name never...

Hi all: I've come into possession of a fairly old Ezo spruce. (At least, I think it's Ezo spruce, P. glehnii, not the similar but larger-foliaged P. jezoensis). I've seen a few posts about Ezo spruces in various archives (I was inspired to write this by the previous post), but since...

There is a fairly detailed article on mugo pruning at Bonsai4Me: http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATMugo%20Pines%20Indepth.htm I'm also really a naive about this ... so any answers that address the OPs question, or elaborate on the Bonsai4Me article would be great. Dan

And moreover, from personal experience, I can say that this tree looks even better in person than in the photos. Would you be willing to talk more about your general pinching / foliage refinement technique on it?