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POCD? My trident is ~ 12". I have the top branch (now leader) at about 6 feet in height, growing untouched to get it thicken up. Sounds like there could be the issue you mentioned, that resources would be used for that leader and not a threaded branch? I will check later, but I don't think the...

Tridents you can graft any time, right? The secondary buds seem to pop very soon after the original ones leaf. Actually, how many leaves are there at each node? Seems 6 maybe. If so, when those 6 open, there is nothing left at that node?

Yeah, I have a few redundant branches to choose from. So if it dies it won't hurt the over all design. Thanks.

Yes, as I said, it's not ideal. But it can be done during the growing season. Just wondering whe. Does the branch have to harden some, like turn wood-like?

I want to do a thread graft on a Japanese maple. When are the next generation of buds mature enough so that when leaves are cut, the next generation of buds will sprout? Thanks PS I know this is not an ideal time of year.

I may try a thread graft on a trident. But the trunk seems to have off and on dead sections. Can anyone determine where there is a place where the cambium is still alive? Or do I have to thry to scrape off a bit to look for green? I think the almost orange strips are alive. Thanks.

Here are the leaves. Japanese maple.

So you'd go with Option 1? I know one of the 2 leaders has to be cut, but I don't know if a horizontal cut could maybe stir a bud to pop with a better, vertical angle.

So chop here? And yes, pretty sure a Japanese maple.

That top angle change doesn't bother you?

How far down should I cut it? Do I do it now or let the tree get full growth in a month? It had a bit of root work, though not too much. It was very healthy last growing season.

Trying to decide which leader would be best. Option 1 has the dreaded perpendicular angle to the trunk, so the trunk line would have an unpleasant change in direction. Option 2 leaves little room on the opposite side (see red arrow) for a branch after the 2 chops. It can however be wired to...

No garage here. Just an apartment with a glass door. Will the leaved ones being inside for 2 days, out for 2 days, back in for 1 night, weaken the trees with foliage much? Most are getting very low light exposure while inside, even with the glass door.

These are most of my trees.

What are you all going to do to protect the trees, depending on overnight low temps?

There will be cold nights here this week, 24, 29, and 30 degrees as the low, for several hours a night. I have elms, Japanese and trident maples. Some already have foliage, some not. I have some small and large trees. Which state of growth and type and size of trees require me to bring them in...

Trying to understand the energy usage and creation. If the tree uses energy to put out shoots of 6-7 nodes long, then all but 1 are removed before those little, new leaves can send energy back to the tree through photosynthesis, doesn't the tree lose energy with that process?

Yeah, I was thinking it is too tall.

Thanks. For ramification, should I spend the whole growing season, including now, pinching after the second nodes? Or does that drain the tree, putting out new shoots that are cut-off after just 2 nodes?

Any thoughts on whether to create distinct foliage pads or go for a fully filled-in look? Thanks.

Didn't get to my trident soon enough. Repotted it today. Took off about 20-25% of the roots. Will this late repotting be an issue? Should i prune off some of the opening buds? It also has a 5' leader to thicken it up. Thanks.

Is there a better tool bit like those abrasive cones that come with a Dremel tool? They are rather small for larger work. Thanks.

For this cyberian elm, i need more ramification. For my maples, most need fast branch growth. Do I need 2 fertilzers then? Many are 2-3" diameter, 1-2 feet tall. Most need fast branch/trunk growth. They are in a bonsai mix with component sizes about 1/8" inch (non-organic): fired clay, bark...

Not sure on the maple variety. I was thinking of trying. The only issue i have a large possible fee3der on the other side that I could use to thread graft. But I guess I could use it for a thread graft as 1 of the lower branches, or in the back where there is minimal btanching.

Sorry, not sure what you mean by cutting back the sub further.