Nope. I lost a Korean hornbeam and a trident this spring. A crabapple and Japanese maple chop by the same method were successful. To the best of my knowledge, I chopped all when the buds started to swell. I’ll be following dav4 s advice provided earlier in this thread in the future.
I lost 2 tridents and a korean hornbeam that were growing in the ground. I chopped them when buds were breaking. All grew new buds but they all shrivelled and died.
I’ve been at this for 5 years, and I finally have a tree for this thread.
crape myrtle started from 3 gallon nursery plant 5 years ago. Spent about 3 years in the ground and moved to an Anderson flat last spring.
This tree is coming along.
ive lost several new branches because they grow very fast an long, then a heavy raim storm will be enough to knock a branch off.
Is a rotary saw the best tool to remove the central leader from this tree? This picture is old, and the tree is covered in growth now, so I need to remove the trunk without disturbing the remaining branches.
Anybody have design advice for this tree? I’m trying to avoid the pine tree look here, but that’s all I’m capable of visualizing.
I appreciate @Shibuis suggestion, and That may be the way to go. just looking for some different opinions.
I chopped a trident maple growing in the ground several weeks ago. I did it when buds were swelling. New buds began to form but they turned brown.
I think my timing was fine, I followed the same protocol and had no issues with a Korean hornbeam, Japanese maple and crabapple.
could it be...
There was a thread here a few months ago that discussed hardening off and pruning. I can’t find it, and was hoping someone could polar a link or remind me what the title of the thread was
Thanks
Ridley
I’ve attached a picture of a cut on my pomegranate. I made the initial cut last year, and cut off the remaining dead stump a few weeks ago.
I was unable to remove all of the dead wood with my concave cutter. Would a knob cutter be used to continue removing the dead wood?