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  1. ysrgrathe

    Taking cuttings from the second flush

    All of the literature seems to be on taking cuttings from the first flush. Is there any reason not to try taking strong growth from later flushes? My beni maiko pushed some very strong shoots, more than 12". I was thinking these still need a couple of weeks to harden before cutting, what do...
  2. ysrgrathe

    Young maple development

    Where next with a young maple like this? I acquired six of these as bare root seedlings from Bill Valvanis three years ago and planted them all at somewhat of an angle. I'm wondering now if I did this wrong because while they have some curve, I'm not exactly sure where the trunk line should go...
  3. ysrgrathe

    Maples for orange spring color

    Orange is a relatively unusual color. I've long loved A.p. 'Akane' for its really unique orange-y tones in the spring. Unfortunately, it is not a very vigorous grower: it can easily get scorched in full sun, and regardless of care I (and it seems others on the web) struggle to keep the leaves...
  4. ysrgrathe

    Is it possible to find all threads started by a user?

    My use case: I want to find the tree progression threads for users I admire. For example, find all of mach5 or markyscott's posts. The thread-based search under advanced search almost does this, but for prolific posters their own threads are drowned out by their posts in other threads. I...
  5. ysrgrathe

    Grafting maples

    I know we don't normally use grafted maples for bonsai, but I'm interested to see what I can learn about grafting this spring. I have some cultivars that are hard to layer and I'd still like to propagate them. I'm particularly interested in 1) Are there techniques to reduce the visibility...
  6. ysrgrathe

    This is why you don't overdo rooting hormones

    I was trying to root some cultivars and was experimenting with higher concentrations of auxins. Cuttings were washed in 900ppm hydrogen peroxide, wounded at the base, dipped and then stuck. The first images below are of A.p. 'Summer Gold' rooted in 3000ppm IBA / 1500ppm NAA (Dip N Grow), 12...
  7. ysrgrathe

    Are there enough roots on this layer?

    Are there enough roots here to separate? The tree is getting a bit sunburned and I'm not sure I can move it without damaging the layer, so I'm wondering if I should just remove it now. I have a mist system to move it to. I'm somewhat new to layering; the first year, none of my layers...
  8. ysrgrathe

    ysrgrathe's contest entry thread

    Looking forward to the contest! I purchased 40 seeds from myseeds.co via Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRW7SAA/
  9. ysrgrathe

    Ground growing pines

    I was thinking to create a planting bed next year to ground grow some JBP. I am in PA 6b. We have heavy clay soil and get quite a bit of rain - 40+ inches per year, a lot of it in winter/spring which waterlogs the ground. I believe the ground is too wet for pines. I've had good success...
  10. ysrgrathe

    New Muranaka Pine

    It was suggested to me that picking up a starter from George Muranaka would be a good idea; I'm glad I did as this looks like it will be a fun little tree to work with. Which side do you like best? There is reverse taper from two angles, so I think it comes down to either having the tree...
  11. ysrgrathe

    Managing a "leggy" JWP pine

    I'm getting enough (misplaced?) confidence that I want to start looking for a more refined pine so that I can learn more about managing a developed specimen. I've noticed that a lot of the trees that come up for sale tend to be pretty leggy -- they may look great from one forced perspective...
  12. ysrgrathe

    Chop advice - new Kashima maple

    This is a A.p. "Kashima" I just received from Mark Comstock. I was thinking to do a pretty severe chop in the spring to improve the taper / bring the ramification in closer. I was planning to make this a broom. Any advice? The other four pics show the view from each side...I'd be curious if...
  13. ysrgrathe

    Literati Scots Pine

    This is a workshop tree (Pinus sylvestris) that I've had for a couple of years. The first year it was pretty weak, but this year I fertilized heavily and got nice strong candles. I foresee cutting all but one branch off (I won't do this all at once!). I included a terrible virt; my intent is...
  14. ysrgrathe

    Propagating Japanese Maples via cuttings

    I'm about to try my hand at cuttings (Japanese Maple cultivars). This is the procedure I intend to use; I would love any feedback on the approach because I am not experienced in this. 1. Sterilize all propogation surfaces using household bleach diluted 10:1 with water. 2. Prepare 10:1 dilute...
  15. ysrgrathe

    Tanuki/Phoenix graft -- remove tissue?

    I have a couple of texts that discuss Tanuki with larch or cedar and indicate that the tissue should be stripped on the side facing the graft -- presumably so that the live plant does not outgrow the deadwood and split it or pull away from it. However, I have found mixed messages regarding the...
  16. ysrgrathe

    Developing pines

    I'm interested in learning how to work on pines. I've been doing a bunch of reading and was hoping to get some practical help. How would you go about developing this JWP (P. parviflora 'Fukuzumi')? The trunk is about 1.25", and there are whorls every 1-1.5", so quite a few branches to choose...
  17. ysrgrathe

    Sango kaku canker -- remove now?

    I collected this field grown sango kaku earlier in the year and was planning to trunk chop next year. It is now dormant and has developed what I believe is a bacterial canker. I know it is not an ideal time to prune, but should I chop now below the infection, just excise around it, or do...
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