Cheers mate i was being lazy. Somebody posted the table on a thread at ausbonsai.com.You are going to kill the needles caught under the wire in the first tree. New buds usually form from alive needle sockets, so it's important try and wire around the needles as it's hard to get buds from spots which are bare or have dead needles. I find trimming needles to the socket promotes backbudding.
Who formulated your table? I live in Melbourne and it seems pretty consistent with those experienced people I listen too and simple.
Feed and water heavily and keep in full sun always!
It's good to develop JBP on a thoughtful plan, but I think you need to read a little more about developing black pine for bonsai. Several of your tasks are for refining black pines (breaking spring candles, summer candle pruning), and need to come after you've finished developing the trunks and primary branches. Removing unwanted needles, shoots, and buds needs to be a very strategic process. Read a bit on how to select these needles, shoots, and branches by classifying them as with final branches, or sacrifice branches. Then you can make your plan. Here is some reading:I bought these two black pines recently, what do you all think?
It's good to develop JBP on a thoughtful plan, but I think you need to read a little more about developing black pine for bonsai. Several of your tasks are for refining black pines (breaking spring candles, summer candle pruning), and need to come after you've finished developing the trunks and primary branches. Removing unwanted needles, shoots, and buds needs to be a very strategic process. Read a bit on how to select these needles, shoots, and branches by classifying them as with final branches, or sacrifice branches. Then you can make your plan. Here is some reading:
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2013/07/13/sacrifice-branches-black-pine-part-2/
It's good to develop JBP on a thoughtful plan, but I think you need to read a little more about developing black pine for bonsai. Several of your tasks are for refining black pines (breaking spring candles, summer candle pruning), and need to come after you've finished developing the trunks and primary branches. Removing unwanted needles, shoots, and buds needs to be a very strategic process. Read a bit on how to select these needles, shoots, and branches by classifying them as with final branches, or sacrifice branches. Then you can make your plan. Here is some reading:
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2013/07/13/sacrifice-branches-black-pine-part-2/
I am using the tallest shoot/sacfrifice to thicken the trunk
Unless developing tree for Literati is best to use low or lowest branch to thicken trunk and develop taper.
Spring is spring, and summer is summer, no matter where you are. Don't decandle in spring only mid summer or when there's around 100 days left before your average first frost.As mentioned i am a complete and utter noob. But i believe the reason that the times could be diferent to what you are used to is that it is designed for the clinate of the east coast of australia?
Spring is spring, and summer is summer, no matter where you are. Don't decandle in spring only mid summer or when there's around 100 days left before your average first frost.
Aaron
In a word, YES.
That calander you posted in your first post is all wrong. Toss it out. BVF said it was more about refining, and it is, but even then, it's wrong.
For example, decandling is done early to mid summer, not spring when the candles are really small the way your calendar suggests.
Reject that calander, and reject the source of mis-information that created it!
Unless developing tree for Literati is best to use low or lowest branch to thicken trunk and develop taper.
I don't think Boon has ever made a calander like that. Except, I think there may be one on the Bay Island Bonsai web site. That's his club. And the calander would be geared towards what to do in the San Francisco Bay Area.Ad
Adair - I know you receive handouts from Boon & thank you for posting them here for our benefit.
Has Boon (or indeed yourself) ever produced a similar table to the one shown on this thread with approximate timings? I understand that you can never do a table that fits all climates but it would be an excellent starting point for those of us getting used to jbp cultivation cycles.
Thanks