2 new parsons from nursery

[Deadwood]

Juniper 1

Juniper2

I did a bit of cleaning on both, and removed the crossing branches on 2. I am open to any suggestions and ideas. I'll leave them as is until spring, then repot in training pots. The larger is very leggy and pot bound..should I anticipate issues with backbudding to tighten the foliage?

 

[Deadwood]

Nebari

Top

 

[october]

The second juniper, the view with the scissors seems like it might make a nice front.

Rob

 

[Deadwood]

That's my though Rob. I like that view....need to smoke it over i suppose...should it be cut back harder or wait until spring when i can get it in good soil...

 

[october]

That's my though Rob. I like that view....need to smoke it over i suppose...should it be cut back harder or wait until spring when i can get it in good soil...

Even though I can't see the top of the tree. You cannot cut this tree back. As far as junipers go, it barely has enough foliage to survive on. If you cut back what is there, you might lose it. Also, there is no foliage on the bottom half of the tree. You cannot cut back to where there is no foliage.

Your best bet at this point is to let it grow for about 2 years. At which point, the tree will gain some strength and you might get some back budding low. If this happens you can cut some of the top off. Then, it may cause it to grow even more on the bottom parts.

Come this spring, inspect the roots, if there are rotted ones, remove them. If not, do not cut any roots, just comb them out a bit, remove about 2/3 of the old soil and put it in a good size pot, with good drainage and good bonsai soil. After about 2 years, you might have new options.

Of course, this is your tree. If you want to practice on it or do some work to it, I do understand. My advice was to try to ensure the tree does survive to possibly become a good bonsai years down the road.

Rob

 

[Deadwood]

Well part of learning is keeping a tree alive, it nursing said tree back to health. Ill do as you recommend and hope for back budding. Why only remove 2/3 of the old soil come spring? My plan is to build a nice large growbox for it. Its sad looking though....a many plants are at this nursery...overgrown, overtaken, and over watered..also can i assume a 60 percent grit mix like a pine?

 

[october]

Well part of learning is keeping a tree alive, it nursing said tree back to health. Ill do as you recommend and hope for back budding. Why only remove 2/3 of the old soil come spring? My plan is to build a nice large growbox for it. Its sad looking though....a many plants are at this nursery...overgrown, overtaken, and over watered..also can i assume a 60 percent grit mix like a pine?

For the most part, you really don't want to bare root conifers. Some, such as yew, in certain conditions, can be bare rooted. Also, this tree is not in great health, removing all it's soil is not a good idea. If the tree does well, in 2-3 years, then you can remove whats left of the old soil. At which point, you will have mostly fresh soil. Just make sure that althought some old soil is left, that is is not cememented or blocking drainage in that area.

Lastly and this is going to save you time, money and anguish..lol..Try to start with healthy material. The reasons are endless for this. Here are just a couple. Being new to the art, the main pointss now are learning, doing and having fun. When you purchase an unhealthy tree, you really can't accomplish any of these. You won't be able to work on this tree for 2-3 years. Also, the tree may not be very receptive to work due to poor health. You could spend 2-3 years with this tree, pots, soil, time and then it might just end up dying. You could also give it the 2-3 years, then work on it and if it does not like it, you could lose it. Which means basically you baby sat a tree, started at it for years and in the end you lost it. Of course, there are exceptions. If you find a really nice specimen and it is recovering, then this might be a different story.

There is so much to to learn, but it is also fun. The journey is half the fun. With unhealthy stock, it negates these things.

Rob

 

[Deadwood]

Rob, thanks for the help. This helps me a lot. I keep searching, but there are no bonsai nurseries close. Painted lady in Wilmington...not too far, also maybe one in Columbia. I really wish there was a study group close. I'm also probably shopping at the wrong time if year.

 

[october]

Rob, thanks for the help. This helps me a lot. I keep searching, but there are no bonsai nurseries close. Painted lady in Wilmington...not too far, also maybe one in Columbia. I really wish there was a study group close. I'm also probably shopping at the wrong time if year.

Try local nurseries. Not necesarily chains like Lowes or Home depot, but privately or family owned nurseries. They sometimes have good stuff. Also, once in a great while, you can find something at a Lowes or Home Depot. I found this yew at Home Depot for around $30. After 5 years of training, this is what it looks like so far.

Rob

 

[Dirty Nails]

I saw you mentioned a crape myrtle in another thread. Those are fun and easy plants to learn on. They grow fast. are very resiliant, cheap and readily available. Plus they air layer easily ao if you know someone who has a big one you can get a fat trunk for free. You should be able to find LOTS of them around you.

 

[Deadwood]

lots of crapes around...man... that yew is amazing. well done