Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
It's not grafted. That is actually the location where the original cotyledons and root intersected. I guarantee you it is not grafted.
2017 From Seed.
- Thread starter sorce
- Start date
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
The tree was not grafted it was grown from seed for some 30 years on its own roots.
Ironbeaver
Chumono
Do you think it will blend more, or is it permanent?
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
The bark will eventually march its way up the trunk. For some reason beyond me the difference is the location of the cotyledons when the tree was in its first year. Of the Whites I have left they are all that way.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
hemmy
Omono
I’m curious @zelk , did you up-pot them and what were the results? It seems there are many ways to develop from seeds depending on desired size. For my 2017 TMs, I germinated in flats and shifted to 3” pots and Rootmaker cells, then grew on before shifting to gallon Rootmaker pots. I left some in the 3” pots and cells to see growth difference. I just up-potted them then last night. I left the smallest, with shortest internodes in the 3” pots and will shift then in the Spring. Below is a pic showing the tallest and shortest trees from the batch up-potted early on the left and the tallest trees from the batch up-potted last night on the right. The early shifted trees put on good growth and have secondary growth at nodes.
Wilson
Masterpiece
Ponderosa pine from the Okanagan valley, and a dawn redwood from a Toronto park. Both tastefully planted in rotisserie chicken containers.
hemmy
Omono
Ponderosa pine from the Okanagan valley, and a dawn redwood from a Toronto park. Both tastefully planted in rotisserie chicken containers.
Germinated in 2017?!
Wilson
Masterpiece
**2016**
I just got a few different kinds of seeds. Japanese maple,black,red, white pine,trident maple, Japanese larch and couple others. Does anyone have any good links to growing seeds?Stratification methods and what not. Thanks
GGB
Masterpiece
@ohiogrown PLEASE do yourself the favor and do "seedling cuttings" with your strongest sprouted pines. I have been growing pines from seed for years and every minute has been a waste when I think about how incredible they'd be if they had perfect nebari. Search "seedling cutting" on here or google. super simple
Fall Update:
2017 from seed - Zelkova's in Front, JBP behind them. (to the far back is 2nd year 2016 planted stuff)
2016 from seed - Tridents, JRP, JBP, and in the bottom right a 3rd year potted in colanders Jap. Maple and Dogwood.
Lets hope the Ohio winter treats everything kindly and much of this stock can be moved up to my growing grounds which is finally ready to receive the last 3 years of preparing small stock.
2017 from seed - Zelkova's in Front, JBP behind them. (to the far back is 2nd year 2016 planted stuff)
2016 from seed - Tridents, JRP, JBP, and in the bottom right a 3rd year potted in colanders Jap. Maple and Dogwood.
Lets hope the Ohio winter treats everything kindly and much of this stock can be moved up to my growing grounds which is finally ready to receive the last 3 years of preparing small stock.
Bonds Guy
Mame
Very true. I cold stratified some cherry blossom seeds in a pot outside. We had a few days warm weather in february so I decided to check on them and what do you know, two of them germinated
Several years later. Some 3-4 year old pines in front
Some of the 5-6 year old pines in the back.
I continue to decandle the lower branches each summer and bud select in the fall. I've been stripping the needles off pretty much everything on the sacrifice branch except this year's growth (and whirl) to keep the lower branches well sunlit and alive. Kind of in a holding pattern of let the top grow wild and continue to watch the bases thicken. The goal is to have medium-large trees generally formal or informal uprights since I have been wiring them young.
Some of the 5-6 year old pines in the back.
I continue to decandle the lower branches each summer and bud select in the fall. I've been stripping the needles off pretty much everything on the sacrifice branch except this year's growth (and whirl) to keep the lower branches well sunlit and alive. Kind of in a holding pattern of let the top grow wild and continue to watch the bases thicken. The goal is to have medium-large trees generally formal or informal uprights since I have been wiring them young.
Glaucus
Chumono
Nice, lots of fat candles. Your pictures remind me of my own partial failures and this video:
The way to go is apparently to have one long mostly bald leader with no branching. And then keep a bunch of branches short and compact very near the base.
I see this is mostly what you have tried as well, especially the second picture. But I am puzzled as to why the Japanese guy gets more shoots with more vigor so close at the base.
I assume your goal is bonsai
Maybe the trick is to slow down the main trunk more. And remove all candles right now. Even though that will show down. I always removed the sidebranches from a node on the sacrifice branch after a year.
The way to go is apparently to have one long mostly bald leader with no branching. And then keep a bunch of branches short and compact very near the base.
I see this is mostly what you have tried as well, especially the second picture. But I am puzzled as to why the Japanese guy gets more shoots with more vigor so close at the base.
I assume your goal is bonsai
Maybe the trick is to slow down the main trunk more. And remove all candles right now. Even though that will show down. I always removed the sidebranches from a node on the sacrifice branch after a year.
Hey thanks for the video reference. Yes I'm very much doing something similar to what he's been doing in pots, except mine being in the ground. It seems he didn't detail a lot about what his work looks like for the lower branches, but I suspect he was a little more on top of that work than myself. My area is located at my parents house and I basically only make a scheduled effort to get to work on them when I decandle sometime late June, and bud select once things have hardened off in the fall. Which means I leave the lower portion of my trees growing super bushy and strong most of the year and only thin them out in the fall. I think that between that sparse working time combined with the vigor in the ground I get slightly longer internodes that his potted examples. The real challenge for me is going to be the effort of safely transitioning from the ground into a point when that day comes. I don't have a clue what the roots look like (or if they'll be a mess or deeply tap rooted). About 2 years before I make my first attempts I think I'll do a sacrifice tree or 2 and sawzall the ground in the same of the wooden box I'll transplant them into a few inches smaller than the future container is the fall as well make an angled cut underneath to severe any large tap roots and then see if they come out healthy the next spring.
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