2nd bald cypress attemp

c54fun

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I tried one of those baseball bat sized trees last year but it never took of after I got it. Just sat and died. Anyhow I wanted something much smaller. Not looking to grow out a giant flared base just looking to make a cool looking small flat topish cypress.
This one actually grew when I got it and its about the right size I want. I put it in a training pot and let it grow for a while. Then selected a good leader and did an initial shape of it. Tonight I went out and used a new leader and started shaping the top into a flat top. I ended up having 4 decent branches to get the structure started and there are plenty more smaller ones that need to grow out more before wiring to fill in the gaps on the top. Middle and bottom just needs to grow. Not to concerned but looks like there are enough branches to be made for what is there. I made a sketch of what I want with what I have to work with. I think its doable. Hope to be a cool little tree.
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petegreg

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The problem is that BCs drop some branches (esp. those that don't ramify) in dormant period. But they bud back just fine. It means it can take some few years to get "permanent" branches in places we need them to have.
 

rockm

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The problem is that BCs drop some branches (esp. those that don't ramify) in dormant period. But they bud back just fine. It means it can take some few years to get "permanent" branches in places we need them to have.
This is not true. BC can produce "real" branches, and leaves that look like branches that drop in the fall. The branches that can resemble multi-stemmed branches are "fronds" and are just leaves, really. If your BC is dropping large, lignified branches, you have some issues with health.

FWIW, the design of the tree in this thread is about half again too tall. It looks proportionally strange. I would cut that apex back to the first leaf (or even lower).

I'd also get it out of that tub of water. It looks stagnant. Stagnant warm water does not hold oxygen well. It can turn "anaerobic" allowing very little or no oxygen to the roots, slowing or halting growth. The algae (the green tint in the water) is also using up oxygen. While BC can tolerate those kinds of growing conditions, they're hardly ideal...
 

c54fun

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The problem is that BCs drop some branches (esp. those that don't ramify) in dormant period. But they bud back just fine. It means it can take some few years to get "permanent" branches in places we need them to have.
Thanks for the info.
I hope it at least keeps the top. It puts on growth so fast I hope I can keep the branches selected. I may keep some other branches as they bud encase I loose others during dormancy. New to bald cypress. This tree will be mainly about the top but some side branches should add to the look. I'm hopping in three years to start looking like something. Its the size all ready I was wanting. Just want the branches and the the top to fill out.
 

c54fun

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This is not true. BC can produce "real" branches, and leaves that look like branches that drop in the fall. The branches that can resemble multi-stemmed branches are "fronds" and are just leaves, really. If your BC is dropping large, lignified branches, you have some issues with health.

FWIW, the design of the tree in this thread is about half again too tall. It looks proportionally strange. I would cut that apex back to the first leaf (or even lower).

I'd also get it out of that tub of water. It looks stagnant. Stagnant warm water does not hold oxygen well. It can turn "anaerobic" allowing very little or no oxygen to the roots, slowing or halting growth. The algae (the green tint in the water) is also using up oxygen. While BC can tolerate those kinds of growing conditions, they're hardly ideal...

The design of the tree should be just what I'm wanting in a few years.
Somewhere I watched a video of a guy collecting bs and he said there was a big difference in the size and quality of trees that are in stagnant water vs water levels that would go up and down. The up and down water level trees are way better. The tub has a valve. I use the valve to drain it. Between watering it and rains it gets filled. I then drain it again. Close the valve and start it over again. This is the method I'm using for the summer and so far its working great.

These are the pictures that I used to figure out what to buy for a starter tree and inspiration for design. And yes they look proportionally strange for sure. If I was looking to create the typical bs this would not be the tree to use to start with.

images (1).jpg p1010010.jpg
 

rockm

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"tried one of those baseball bat sized trees last year but it never took of after I got it. Just sat and died."

Did you give this one similar treatment? Not being an asshole, genuinely curious.
 

c54fun

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"tried one of those baseball bat sized trees last year but it never took of after I got it. Just sat and died."

Did you give this one similar treatment? Not being an asshole, genuinely curious.
When I bought it, it had lots of green growth ( the picture in my avatar) Had no fine roots at all and had just been dug up. My understanding is you don't collect when there is a bunch of green on it? I put this in soil in a big tub. Kept it watered. Not like I'm doing now. I just kept dying. Never did anything but die. Could have been a lot of things but from reading its not a good way to start by collecting when lots of green is on and then combine that with shipping and shock to the tree? Could have been many things. This small tree is a great and cheap way for me to see if I can grow bs. If this works I would love to find a large flared base to do another.
 

petegreg

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This is not true. BC can produce "real" branches, and leaves that look like branches that drop in the fall. The branches that can resemble multi-stemmed branches are "fronds" and are just leaves, really. If your BC is dropping large, lignified branches, you have some issues with health...

Yes, this is right description. I've seen similar post somewhere here written by you. Can you identify those fronds on OP's tree visually for example, please?
 

jeanluc83

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I picked up a bald Cypress last spring and I'm still getting a handle on how to work them. When is the best time to do cutbacks?
 

Zach Smith

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When I bought it, it had lots of green growth ( the picture in my avatar) Had no fine roots at all and had just been dug up. My understanding is you don't collect when there is a bunch of green on it? I put this in soil in a big tub. Kept it watered. Not like I'm doing now. I just kept dying. Never did anything but die. Could have been a lot of things but from reading its not a good way to start by collecting when lots of green is on and then combine that with shipping and shock to the tree? Could have been many things. This small tree is a great and cheap way for me to see if I can grow bs. If this works I would love to find a large flared base to do another.
The problem was that it wasn't handled properly by the seller. You don't dig up a cypress that's leafed out and ship it off with no roots established. Good grief!
 

rockm

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The design of the tree should be just what I'm wanting in a few years.
Somewhere I watched a video of a guy collecting bs and he said there was a big difference in the size and quality of trees that are in stagnant water vs water levels that would go up and down. The up and down water level trees are way better. The tub has a valve. I use the valve to drain it. Between watering it and rains it gets filled. I then drain it again. Close the valve and start it over again. This is the method I'm using for the summer and so far its working great.

These are the pictures that I used to figure out what to buy for a starter tree and inspiration for design. And yes they look proportionally strange for sure. If I was looking to create the typical bs this would not be the tree to use to start with.

View attachment 151790 View attachment 151792
You're confused about what was being said. BC's root flare is very much affected BY WATER LEVEL, not stagnant vs not. Bald cypress in constantly flooded areas have bottle shaped root flare, while BC growing in less deep water, where the water table remains relatively stable have spreading, less bottle-shaped root flare. It should also be noted that once water gets more than 10 feet deep, BC can't really deal with it--that's why they stop growing in lakes when the bottom drops off into deeper portions.

Filling and draining your pot is great. It needs it daily. However, in Dallas, you're also going to be dealing with your tree standing in hot or very warm water come late July, August and most of September. Don't be surprised if it starts yellowing in those conditions...
 

rockm

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Yes, this is right description. I've seen similar post somewhere here written by you. Can you identify those fronds on OP's tree visually for example, please?
Can't show you on the OP's tree because I can' t see any on it. BC produce this type of foliage occasionally. It's hard to describe, but basically, it is a multi-leafed leaf, where smaller leaves sprout directly from a leaf. It looks like ramification, but in the fall, the whole thing drops like all the other leaves. I've had it happen a few times over the years on my bonsai and have seen it on trees in the wild.

Also BC can put leaves out directly from their trunks, as well as weaker shoots that all drop off in the fall. They will, however, not drop established branches. You can kill off established branches with overly aggressive root pruning, however.
 

c54fun

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I picked up a bald Cypress last spring and I'm still getting a handle on how to work them. When is the best time to do cutbacks?

I don't want to guess on when is the best time in your area. Check around and keep researching and you can figure it out. Lot of people do it when its dormant. Just because I cut mine back in the summer doesn't mean its the best way. Good luck with it. They seem to be fun trees to work with.
 

petegreg

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Can't show you on the OP's tree because I can' t see any on it. BC produce this type of foliage occasionally. It's hard to describe, but basically, it is a multi-leafed leaf, where smaller leaves sprout directly from a leaf. It looks like ramification, but in the fall, the whole thing drops like all the other leaves. I've had it happen a few times over the years on my bonsai and have seen it on trees in the wild.

Also BC can put leaves out directly from their trunks, as well as weaker shoots that all drop off in the fall. They will, however, not drop established branches. You can kill off established branches with overly aggressive root pruning, however.


Thank you for your response, screenshot(ed). I'll check my tree tomorrow. Truly, I've got this issue of dropping branches in dormancy with a dawn redwood too, they BC and DR both were repotted some three years ago. With the DR the issue is even worse, I've got only three? branches wired in three years, the rest are always one year old branches that don't last till next spring.
 

rockm

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Growing out of the cut paste. Love seeing new growth especially after a big cut down.
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Um, it's a young BC, you're in Texas--it's home range. It will mostly likely push rampant growth wherever it is down there.

The highway department uses them in punishingly dry Interstate medians--there are stands of them growing in graveled beds under overpasses at the Dallas Convention Center...BC are tough and they grow...You don't need the tub of water (although Northerners with no experience seeing this tree in the wild tend to submerge it "because that's where it grows...";-) Ain't true...) You just need denser soil, you would have the same results, or more.
 
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