Ruben Bouwmeester
Chumono
How healthy are your trees? Most off the time its better too let them grow strong in 2 or 3 years.
A Barrel of Scots Scotch (Pines that is)
- Thread starter Paradox
- Start date
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
The strongest two trees have been cut now. I think they'll be able to deal with it. They were getting ready for a second flush (new buds after this years spring flush started swelling) so I figured these were strong enough. And if not, that would be a good lesson for me.
I know that letting vigorous growth run causes backbudding, and I know that not cutting shoots would most likely improve backbudding. But the wood on these two trees is getting old. Branches are 30+cm in length (with 8 seasons of growth per branch), and there's only all of last years needles + this years. I'm afraid that if I don't push them towards forced backbudding now, the wood will become too old and I'll have to revert to grafting if I ever want to fill the tree up.
Most shoots were cut back to an equally balanced size of 7-14 sets of needles. So I might have just removed 5 pairs or so from the tip. It's somewhere in between cutting shoots and letting them be.
It might set me back a year or even two, it might help me out. We'll see what happens, I have the time, I'm just afraid the branches have had their time so it was now or never..
I'm taking notes so that if something works, I have a reference in the future. And if it didn't work, I'll have that reference as well. These aren't going to be show-worthy trees in the coming 10 years or so, so I don't mind screwing up a few times.
I know that letting vigorous growth run causes backbudding, and I know that not cutting shoots would most likely improve backbudding. But the wood on these two trees is getting old. Branches are 30+cm in length (with 8 seasons of growth per branch), and there's only all of last years needles + this years. I'm afraid that if I don't push them towards forced backbudding now, the wood will become too old and I'll have to revert to grafting if I ever want to fill the tree up.
Most shoots were cut back to an equally balanced size of 7-14 sets of needles. So I might have just removed 5 pairs or so from the tip. It's somewhere in between cutting shoots and letting them be.
It might set me back a year or even two, it might help me out. We'll see what happens, I have the time, I'm just afraid the branches have had their time so it was now or never..
I'm taking notes so that if something works, I have a reference in the future. And if it didn't work, I'll have that reference as well. These aren't going to be show-worthy trees in the coming 10 years or so, so I don't mind screwing up a few times.
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
Is what we do to force back budding.
They don't get a second flush. Scots are single flush pines.
It's setting buds for next year.
It can also produce new buds on old wood in spring if real vigorous.
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
I know they are a single flush species, but how would I call this? I'm having a bad day today with terminology ;-)
A swelling bud on the left, and a spring flush on the right. Is that not a second flush? Maybe a slow first flush? Continuous flush?
I don't know how to call that. But I'd like to know anyways, it's never too late to learn.
A swelling bud on the left, and a spring flush on the right. Is that not a second flush? Maybe a slow first flush? Continuous flush?
I don't know how to call that. But I'd like to know anyways, it's never too late to learn.
Vance Wood
Lord Mugo
Scots Pines do produce new growth at times, when they should not.
wireme
Masterpiece
I could be wrong but the term for that kind of action may be lammas growth?
Ruben Bouwmeester
Chumono
Just a new but
Soldano666
Omono
Soooon my needles have not hardened off quite yet. I suffered some vole damage to some and figured I wasnt going to be able to work them, but the sonsabitches put out tons of vigorous growth in the uneffected areas. Realistically the voles just helped me do some dormant pruning....
Cypress187
Masterpiece
My scots pine has white stuff (webs?) all on the buds, and black stuff on the trunk.
Ruben Bouwmeester
Chumono
Pictures will help. white stuff- mealybug????
Cypress187
Masterpiece
I'll take pics soon.
Wilson
Masterpiece
Here's a couple pictures showing new buds forming on the spring shoots we break. First pic in red is new bud,
Black where I broke the candle.
Black where I broke the candle.
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
Thanks Wilson, it's very informative to see pictures like that.
Ruben Bouwmeester
Chumono
@Wires_Guy_wires . These young ones are growing hard in this weather.
I give them lots of water, sun and fertilizer. At this point a don't care if those needles are curly.
I give them lots of water, sun and fertilizer. At this point a don't care if those needles are curly.
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
You fertilize during this heat? And they can take it? I might start doing so as well.
Do you use regular strength nutrients @Ruben Bouwmeester ?
Do you use regular strength nutrients @Ruben Bouwmeester ?
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
They love it!
Ruben Bouwmeester
Chumono
No problems, some people say that they come to some sort of standstill in summer. I don't belief that. I'm using DCM universeel or DCM mix2 on young stuff.
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
Alright, then I'll go feed my pines as well.
Standing still or summer dormancy is something for tropical plants.
I'll be using pokon wateroplosbaar. It's the most complete nutrient mixture we can get in the Benelux for the price of just 8 euros per kg. I have tried DCM, I like it, but their brand tends to not have trace elements. It's just not 'Everything in one package'.
I think I remember that pokon even drops the pH of tapwater to acceptable levels. But it has been a while since I last measured it.
Standing still or summer dormancy is something for tropical plants.
I'll be using pokon wateroplosbaar. It's the most complete nutrient mixture we can get in the Benelux for the price of just 8 euros per kg. I have tried DCM, I like it, but their brand tends to not have trace elements. It's just not 'Everything in one package'.
I think I remember that pokon even drops the pH of tapwater to acceptable levels. But it has been a while since I last measured it.
Ruben Bouwmeester
Chumono
Do you have link on that poke fertilizer? There have so much...
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
Sure, this is the stuff:
https://www.bol.com/nl/p/pokon-universele-plantenvoeding-wateroplosbaar-500-g/9200000054280586/
Your local garden center probably sells it for half that price. Or even less. I remember buying it for something close to 4 euro's a pack at some Intratuin store.
Thus far, it was the most complete content of nutrients and trace elements I was able to find without having to order laboratory materials. I can't find the contents online though.
NPK - 20-20-20, of which 10% ureum, 6% nitrate, 4% ammonium, 20% phosphoric acid anhydrous, and 20% potassium oxide.
Cu 0.004%*
B 0.01%
Fe 0.05%*
Mn 0.03%*
Mo 0.001%
Zn 0.003%*
* are chelated with either EDTA or DTPA.
If there's a more complete pack of nutrients, within this price range, I'd like to know. There's always room for improvement!
https://www.bol.com/nl/p/pokon-universele-plantenvoeding-wateroplosbaar-500-g/9200000054280586/
Your local garden center probably sells it for half that price. Or even less. I remember buying it for something close to 4 euro's a pack at some Intratuin store.
Thus far, it was the most complete content of nutrients and trace elements I was able to find without having to order laboratory materials. I can't find the contents online though.
NPK - 20-20-20, of which 10% ureum, 6% nitrate, 4% ammonium, 20% phosphoric acid anhydrous, and 20% potassium oxide.
Cu 0.004%*
B 0.01%
Fe 0.05%*
Mn 0.03%*
Mo 0.001%
Zn 0.003%*
* are chelated with either EDTA or DTPA.
If there's a more complete pack of nutrients, within this price range, I'd like to know. There's always room for improvement!
