A few new trees that followed me home today

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I stopped by my favorite local herb farm today. I've been wanting a fig for a while now--I had one about 15 years ago that I didn't take very good care of--and while I was there I picked up a nice looking olive and a dwarf kumquat.

Now to decide what to do with them. My instinct is to give the olive and kumquat a season or two in larger pots to let the trunks thicken.

For the fig, I'm trying to decide if I should chop the trunk down and take the top as a cutting, using the cutting for bonsai and letting the bottom get large, or vice versa. It would be cool to have a full-size fig kicking around.

What are your thoughts, more experienced bonsai-keepers?

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JosephCooper

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I say that you let them all grow for about 3 years in a larger pot and see what you end up with. You have some trunks that will look really nice if they were a few times thicker.
 
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I say that you let them all grow for about 3 years in a larger pot and see what you end up with. You have some trunks that will look really nice if they were a few times thicker.
That's how I feel too. I'm just happy to have plants around. I figure I can keep them pruned to be bushy and just let the trunks grow, and enjoy them.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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That's how I feel too. I'm just happy to have plants around. I figure I can keep them pruned to be bushy and just let the trunks grow, and enjoy them.

But if you prune them you won’t get much if any trunk thickening. They need to grow wild for 3 years plus to have any chance.
Great fun growing plants and the fig will thicken the fastest.
Charles
 

Tieball

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Let them all grow wildly. No pruning. Resist the temptation to interfere with the natural growth.

No chopping....but at some point in time, the appropriate time in your climate, you’ll change the soil mix....that current mix looks like a problem if kept long term. And....as you said...plant them in larger pots over the seasons of growth ahead.
 
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But if you prune them you won’t get much if any trunk thickening. They need to grow wild for 3 years plus to have any chance.
Great fun growing plants and the fig will thicken the fastest.
Charles
Ah I see. Thanks for the info!
 
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Let them all grow wildly. No pruning. Resist the temptation to interfere with the natural growth.

No chopping....but at some point in time, the appropriate time in your climate, you’ll change the soil mix....that current mix looks like a problem if kept long term. And....as you said...plant them in larger pots over the seasons of growth ahead.
Thanks for the advice. When I do repot, would you use more of a bonsai mix, or make up a well-draining organic mix closer to potting soil?
 

Tieball

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I’d sort of call it more closer to a bonsai mix rather than a potting soil mix. My growing pattern with soil would be Turface 75% and aged pine bark the other 25%. Usually that was because it’s what I had readily available, didn’t cost a lot, added some weight to keep pots stabilized upright, held adequate moisture without becoming soggy, drained very well kept outdoors and lasted well until the next pot size when I chose to repot. It worked fine for me. There are many Turface options....which I think you’ll hear about from NAPA to other brands. In the end, well, they all do the same for the younger growing years....just pick one....and move on without debate. Watering, wind, sun and winter wind protection (outside for me) are key growth components. Along with patience and resistance to fiddling around with the trees to much. I buried my pots outdoors in a sand pile during the winter weather months....some receive windshielding. Once you have the trees thickened...then a more careful selection of substrate is in order....with hundreds of opinions to read about....just pick what you and your trees like in your climate.

Personally I’ve avoided all-organic mixes regardless of how well they drain. That’s just me though. I like a more pebbled structured for root growth and the ability to hold oxygen and exchange oxygen during watering. Most all-organic can lack that air space component as they quickly turn muddy during decomposition. I’m not an expert though...it’s just what I do and think.
 
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Thanks again! Do you know of a good resource that talks about the best time(s) of year to repot various species?

I did some Google searching on figs and read don't do it when it's dormant in the winter, do it when it's dormant, do it any time of year, do it when it's growing in the spring, don't touch the roots because figs are sensitive, do touch the roots because figs are hardy...not super helpful.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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Thanks again! Do you know of a good resource that talks about the best time(s) of year to repot various species?

I did some Google searching on figs and read don't do it when it's dormant in the winter, do it when it's dormant, do it any time of year, do it when it's growing in the spring, don't touch the roots because figs are sensitive, do touch the roots because figs are hardy...not super helpful.

Hi,
Regarding the resource for repotting, well yeah this site is HUGE, just have to search your species and all the answers arrive for you to read and learn.
As for your fig and others, there is a common recommendation here to repot (with root work) when bids are just moving in the Spring. If slip-potting into a bigger pot (any time of year), just be careful not to break too many roots as you repot into bigger pot, though easy to do without damage.
Also, my thinking is that Figs have fleshy roots so probably best to do any root chopping in Spring (bud burst ) and if you do it too early you will freeze/kill the roots in Winter freeze/thaw cycles.
So your climate is really important as @Tieball says. My climate is quite warm in Winter with no snow and light frosts (-5dgrees C), I can get away with repotting throughout Winter as I have low/no risk. You need to figure out (re your Zone) when you do your repotting.
Happy reading and learning,
Charles
 

Tieball

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Thanks again! Do you know of a good resource that talks about the best time(s) of year to repot various species?

I did some Google searching on figs and read don't do it when it's dormant in the winter, do it when it's dormant, do it any time of year, do it when it's growing in the spring, don't touch the roots because figs are sensitive, do touch the roots because figs are hardy...not super helpful.
Yup....you get a variety pack of answers. Your research is as good as mine. A lot of fig tree comments may come from the tropical environments or people with elaborate indoor set-ups. I check where the person giving the information is located. Your area has some good Bonsai groups I believe....check with experienced local members.

Are you planning an indoor location during your winter months.....with lights, humidity and air movement?

Growth will take many years. Keep that in mind as you set expectations of growth.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Culinary fig, is a bit different for bonsai, the non-culinary Ficus species are a mainstream work horse of indoor and tropical bonsai.
Ficus carica, culinary fig, has very coarse branch habit, I would put yours in the ground and grow the tree for fruit, then air layer off a branch for bonsai. This will give you a chance to see their growth habit, and then via air layer, harvest a more attractive branch, rather than struggling with a stick in a pot.
 
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I would put yours in the ground and grow the tree for fruit, then air layer off a branch for bonsai
This is where I'm heading. Although in my climate (zone 6), I'm pretty sure I'd have to take the tree indoors for the winter, so he'll stay in a big pot.

Cheers!
 
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