Sapling Division: A Forest of Misfits

ghues

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Dedication to do it through the rain. It's been miserable here along with strong winds..lovely composition. Thanks for sharing.
Wanted to call in “Repotting in the Rain”.......to the tune of Gene Kelly’s “Singing in the Rain”....had my favourites play’n.....
4 decades in the forests of the Canadian PNW forests.......one’s rain gear, becomes a second skin 😂. Besides working in it, you don’t need to keep the root ball wet with towels or spray bottles.
Things are finally waking up here.....so the next month will see a lot of repotting. More posting to come. 😎🇨🇦
 

Cadillactaste

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Wanted to call in “Repotting in the Rain”.......to the tune of Gene Kelly’s “Singing in the Rain”....had my favourites play’n.....
4 decades in the forests of the Canadian PNW forests.......one’s rain gear, becomes a second skin 😂. Besides working in it, you don’t need to keep the root ball wet with towels or spray bottles.
Things are finally waking up here.....so the next month will see a lot of repotting. More posting to come. 😎🇨🇦
Good point on the rootball staying wet!
 

ghues

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All the trees in the forest are flushing nicely, even the one that I was a little worried about when I took off a significant wedge to make it fit.
 

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Forsoothe!

Imperial Masterpiece
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Ya know, I hate to be critical, but your upper branches are out of scale and that's bad for a couple reasons. It's a design flaw and it is allowing the apically dominate tree to have too much growth at the crown, which is always going to be at the expense of the lower, lowest, and semi-interior branches. That's not good for another two reasons. The trees don't have any taper now and you are contributing to more of the same. Your only hope to begin to turn that around is to minimize that upper growth in favor of more growth on lower branches, even to excess now, and to be recombobulated back to scale when you get closer to showtime. The upper branches that are thicker than branches below them need to go sooner rather than later. That is part of the positioning process, normally. That choice should have been made before assembly.
L 1.JPG
The upper branches need to be small, close-in, and have little foliage now and for the duration. That will help grow a diminutive, pointy peak for each tree while the bottom is gaining a little, but very little, growth for taper, and the lower branches are developing more massive pads. This is very important because the way we grow our forests, is basically too close, -for artistic reasons, and it causes lost of vitality to the lower sections. Once begun, that process is almost irreversible. The crown and outside edges will also grow as much as we want, and the lower branches are easy to diminish and lose, again for two reasons. The height of the forest means that important rear lower branches will parish over time because they are forever in shade from the mass in front of them and need to be nurtured from day one, and native apical dominance.

I know you know all this and these are the rejects from the workshop, but I thought it was a nice opportunity to list the reasons for doing these things because these pictures are the best teaching aids for other less experienced people. Thanking you in advance for your forbearance.
 

ghues

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Ya know, I hate to be critical, but your upper branches are out of scale and that's bad for a couple reasons. It's a design flaw and it is allowing the apically dominate tree to have too much growth at the crown, which is always going to be at the expense of the lower, lowest, and semi-interior branches. That's not good for another two reasons. The trees don't have any taper now and you are contributing to more of the same. Your only hope to begin to turn that around is to minimize that upper growth in favor of more growth on lower branches, even to excess now, and to be recombobulated back to scale when you get closer to showtime. The upper branches that are thicker than branches below them need to go sooner rather than later. That is part of the positioning process, normally. That choice should have been made before assembly.
View attachment 367630
The upper branches need to be small, close-in, and have little foliage now and for the duration. That will help grow a diminutive, pointy peak for each tree while the bottom is gaining a little, but very little, growth for taper, and the lower branches are developing more massive pads. This is very important because the way we grow our forests, is basically too close, -for artistic reasons, and it causes lost of vitality to the lower sections. Once begun, that process is almost irreversible. The crown and outside edges will also grow as much as we want, and the lower branches are easy to diminish and lose, again for two reasons. The height of the forest means that important rear lower branches will parish over time because they are forever in shade from the mass in front of them and need to be nurtured from day one, and native apical dominance.

I know you know all this and these are the rejects from the workshop, but I thought it was a nice opportunity to list the reasons for doing these things because these pictures are the best teaching aids for other less experienced people. Thanking you in advance for your forbearance.
Thank you for taking the time to elaborate your thoughts on how a Forest should look and be trained.
Obviously we have a different opinion. I don’t grow my trees to enter in shows, I grow them to evoke a feeling and design them as best I can.
After 40 years in as a professional Forester in the forest of the Pacific Northwest I have experienced many natural forests where the tree species are “shade intolerant” over time the lower branches will weaken and eventually die as the Forest ages, only the permitter trees will have branches making use of the increase in light conditions and thus be thicker, more robust and longer. As the stand/forest matures and gets to old age the upper crown what is called the active crown can be much less than 40% of total height and the branches will be larger and thick.
Tall uniform calipers (or diameters in real forests) is common as all the individual trees for pioneer species (Douglas fir, Larch, Lodgepole Pine) are the same age and only a few may have larger trunks (greater than 20 % of the average) if they happen to be on richer for nutrient rich micro sites.
These trees in this group are young and I have always had the same intentions (as you mentioned) to manage each individuals growth to enhance the overall appearance.
Thanks again
 
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