A new pair of shoes... (slip potted crabapple)

[Cadillactaste]

Found a frost free pot...no glazing inside other than 1/2" around the rim. With...a drain hole in the size I was looking for. Someone set that pot on the shelf just for me.
*Thanks all... for the advice given me in the other thread.


Love the glazing...the drip has a crackle to it.

 

[Cadillactaste]

@Dav4 took your advice...and tossed wire on it. Yesterday snow was forecast for later today...but now they are calling for it later...and today is a crazy 60F. So I sat outside and wired this up. Took the photo...and then noticed a few were not anchored well with the slingshot method. Came around the second branch wrong. So I redid those.

Wiring I knocked off one branch tip of blooms...but, I feel you were right and it needed wired. Didn't want to put it off...when it could have it done now.

 

[GrimLore]

Nice to see it is budding out well too! Mine still look like dormant pussy willows

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

Nice to see it is budding out well too! Mine still look like dormant pussy willows

Grimmy

Honestly, it should be more dormant for my location as well. Next year at this time it won't be so far along in waking up. But...still enjoying it. Curious to see exact bloom shade.

 

[GrimLore]

Honestly, it should be more dormant for my location as well.

A good time to treat with daconil or copper

Grimmy

 

[barrosinc]

My crabapple sets its branches very fast, so the wire doesn't need to be long on the branches.

 

[Cadillactaste]

A good time to treat with daconil or copper

Grimmy

I wondered about that. It won't affect the blooms forming? I am amazed at how many blooms this pre-bonsai seems to be setting.

 

[Cadillactaste]

My crabapple sets its branches very fast, so the wire doesn't need to be long on the branches.

THANK YOU! I have been trying to find sound facts claiming one way or the other on crabapples. Though I was told that most deciduous trees set quickly.

 

[GrimLore]

I wondered about that. It won't affect the blooms forming?

Any and all of our fruit trees over the years received a Spring treatment at bud break. During seasons that it was tougher additionally every ten days. Last year I just used one treatment and the previous 2 - 3 years every ten days. I am pretty certain fungal problems have a cycle although I have never really read up on it. Anyways I never have seen damage caused by either chemical used as directed on Fruit trees.

Edit: I have no idea why but I only apply it early morning so it dries on the plants before getting blasted by the Sun... Just seems to make sense to me - only reason.

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

Any and all of our fruit trees over the years received a Spring treatment at bud break. During seasons that it was tougher additionally every ten days. Last year I just used one treatment and the previous 2 - 3 years every ten days. I am pretty certain fungal problems have a cycle although I have never really read up on it. Anyways I never have seen damage caused by either chemical used as directed on Fruit trees.

Edit: I have no idea why but I only apply it early morning so it dries on the plants before getting blasted by the Sun... Just seems to make sense to me - only reason.

Grimmy

I've read that ones typically do a regiment being proactive toward fungal issues. With having junipers especially my shimpaku...I need to do this. Checked temps...going to be almost 60 today. So a good day to offer treatment! Thanks Grimmy!

 

[Adair M]

My crabapple sets its branches very fast, so the wire doesn't need to be long on the branches.

That's true for pretty much any deciduous tree. Wire them when the shoots are young and plyable. After a month or six weeks, the twigs have usually lignified, and are "set". At that time, remove the wire.

Conifers are different. Being "sappy", they take a long time to "set".

 

[Cadillactaste]

That's true for pretty much any deciduous tree. Wire them when the shoots are young and plyable. After a month or six weeks, the twigs have usually lignified, and are "set". At that time, remove the wire.

Conifers are different. Being "sappy", they take a long time to "set".

Thanks! Though, I'm thinking it's different with the Satsuki Azalea. For I took off the improper wire I had applied to bring that top more toward the view...and it bounced back to the way it was before.

 

[Adair M]

Thanks! Though, I'm thinking it's different with the Satsuki Azalea. For I took off the improper wire I had applied to bring that top more toward the view...and it bounced back to the way it was before.

When did you wire it? Was it old wood that had already lignified? (Grey bark?). Or green bark? Wire when green. Remove when grey.

Satsuki is really not "deciduous". It's an evergreen. But, the wood, once lignified is hard and brittle! Really no point in wiring hard brittle branches. Unless you like to break branches! Lol!! Wire them when they're soft and plyable.

Satsuki buds back very well, and grows fast. It's really easier to grow out new branches than try to wire old badly positioned branches.

 

[Cadillactaste]

When did you wire it? Was it old wood that had already lignified? (Grey bark?). Or green bark? Wire when green. Remove when grey.

Satsuki is really not "deciduous". It's an evergreen. But, the wood, once lignified is hard and brittle! Really no point in wiring hard brittle branches. Unless you like to break branches! Lol!! Wire them when they're soft and plyable.

Satsuki buds back very well, and grows fast. It's really easier to grow out new branches than try to wire old badly positioned branches.

Your so right! It's an evergreen. Not deciduous at all...that makes much more sense then. I guess with it not looking like a conifer, That notion slipped my mind. The branches in question seem quite maliable. The upper section that is.

 

[Adair M]

Your so right! It's an evergreen. Not deciduous at all...that makes much more sense then. I guess with it not looking like a conifer, That notion slipped my mind. The branches in question seem quite maliable. The upper section that is.

What makes wiring work is the tree growing new growth. When we wire, old growth is slightly damaged as its bent. (Wiring doesn't damage the tree. BENDING it does. The wire is just there to hold the bend until new growth occurs, in sufficient mass to hold the new position).

If you wire and bend in the fall, and no growth occurs over winter, naturally the branch will spring back to its previous position! No new growth has grown into place!

On a deciduous tree, it's pointless to wire in the fall and remove the wire in spring before new growth occurs.

 

[Cadillactaste]

? My Bonide Liquid Copper fungicide has NO mention of a dose for Apple trees.

 

[GrimLore]

? My Bonide Liquid Copper fungicide has NO mention of a dose for Apple trees.

Sure it does, no more then 1 oz per gallon of water on all Apples. It also notes it can actually cause leaf rusting on Golden Delicious Apple leafs.

1 ounce = 6 measured teaspoons.

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

Not on my fold out label...nothing in the lists. I have a smaller bottle. Maybe it doesn't list as much on it...it does state not to spray on flower buds...

I had called a local nursery where I bought the bottle. In hopes they could help me. He said the pathogens that would promote the need for a fungicide treatment hasn't begun yet. He also is the specialist that treats tree diseases and such. They don't use copper fungicide on apples...but, states to follow bonsai horticulture advice...

 

[GrimLore]

Not on my fold out label...nothing in the lists. I have a smaller bottle. Maybe it doesn't list as much on it...it does state not to spray on flower buds...

Flowers and tree flora - different thread

I just sprayed a hardwood cutting with enough to turn it blue today with fresh buds starting to push all over. Never been a problem before with it as I suggested. It is almost a direct quote from the fold out nearly the last page on Apple trees.

Grimmy

 

[GrimLore]

Like so -



Grimmy