A tiny little Mugo, my 1st attempt

jedge76

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I have wanted to work with mugos for a long time and have been reading all the great info from Vance and many others who are doing the same thing. I didn't want to spend much as I knew this to be a learning process, so I just bought a 1 gallon that I thought had a trunk with an interesting direction. It's the pumilio variety and really pushed some nice candles this year.

There is a little bit of reverse taper starting with the 1st whorl, but I removed approximately 50% of the foliage and didn't want to push my luck trying to take out one of the 3 remaining branches that is causing the reverse taper. I am going to allow the lowest remaining branch near the base to run and thicken that area. I also removed around 30% of the roots and placed it in calidama soil, our local version of akadama (crushed California hard pan). It was a fun time and who knows, maybe there's a little tree in there for someday way down the road.

--Joe

P.S. If anyone is interested in obtaining Calidama, let me know.
 

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DougB

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Good start. Please give us periodic updates.
 

jedge76

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Good start. Please give us periodic updates.

Thanks Doug, will do. I actually meant to put this in the pine forum, but I guess it is kinda sorta a shohin size!
 

jedge76

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I too look forward to updates.

Thank you, Vance, for all the effort you have put into this species. I never would've known if you hadn't paved the way. I read an article by you on mugos from the Michigan bonsai society some time ago and was instantly intrigued.
 

Vance Wood

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Thank you, Vance, for all the effort you have put into this species. I never would've known if you hadn't paved the way. I read an article by you on mugos from the Michigan bonsai society some time ago and was instantly intrigued.

It would seem I am starting to have an impact with the species. Our guest master has suggested that I get out there and sell my methods for the Mugo Pine.
 

jedge76

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It would seem I am starting to have an impact with the species. Our guest master has suggested that I get out there and sell my methods for the Mugo Pine.

There is a place for a book or DVD or something to that effect from Vance Wood.
 
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jedge76

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The tree grew very well this Spring. I kept it down in Fresno where it warms up quicker early in the spring than where I live. Now, can I cut back to the new buds that are closer to the trunk? And if so, should I leave any kind of stump on the branch ends? It is nothing special, but I am really happy to see it happy and healthy.
 

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klosi

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If you want to enduce backbudding cut this years growth. Also you can cut up and down growing needles. If you already have the bud you want you can remove the rest of the branch. If you want to completly remove the branch leave the stump for about a half year or something like that.
Vance or someone more experienced then me will give you better info.
Good luck :)
 

Vance Wood

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Explain exactly what you want to do. If you are thinking of cutting back to buds and leaving nothing else you may be inviting disaster. What you need to do with this particular tree is to start thinning out a lot of growth on the inside of the tree that does not fit the design. In you photo I cannot tell what direction you are planning to go.
 

M. Frary

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someone more experienced then me will give you better info.

Then why give any at all.
Cut up and down the needles?.
Something like that?
Cut this year's growth? How? Where?
Some pretty concise information there.
 

klosi

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Just trying to give my input. Someone will say, you're wrong and correct my statement.
Cutting up and down growing needles. Cutting this year growth is regarding shoots if you want to induce backbudding.
It depends what one wants...
 

jedge76

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Explain exactly what you want to do. If you are thinking of cutting back to buds and leaving nothing else you may be inviting disaster. What you need to do with this particular tree is to start thinning out a lot of growth on the inside of the tree that does not fit the design. In you photo I cannot tell what direction you are planning to go.

That's hard for me to show in photos Vance, especially with all of the foliage. I can see an informal upright in there and the base actually has a decent movement in it to help facilitate a little more interest. What I want to do, and maybe I am wrong, is chas foliage back and create a lot more growth in closer to the trunk. I will mess around with a virt tonight, if I can figure that stuff out. Thanks for the reply.
 

jedge76

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If you want to enduce backbudding cut this years growth. Also you can cut up and down growing needles. If you already have the bud you want you can remove the rest of the branch. If you want to completely remove the branch leave the stump for about a half year or something like that.
Vance or someone more experienced then me will give you better info.
Good luck :)
Thanks Klosi, that's kind of where I am headed--pruning to induce the backbudding and allowing more light into the center of the tree. Thanks for the well wishes.
 

jedge76

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If you want to enduce backbudding cut this years growth. Also you can cut up and down growing needles. If you already have the bud you want you can remove the rest of the branch. If you want to completely remove the branch leave the stump for about a half year or something like that.
Vance or someone more experienced then me will give you better info.
Good luck :)
Thanks Klosi, that's kind of where I am headed--pruning to induce the backbudding and allowing more light into the center of the tree. Thanks for the well wishes.
 

klosi

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I hope I helped. Anyway I can't really say how much can you remove in one blow.
Also, check Vance's mugo pine compiled posts on this forum under articles and tutorials thread.
 

jedge76

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Thanks Klosi, you definitely helped and I respect your opinion. I have read those posts and feel pretty confident in removing a few branches and leaving the roots alone this year.
 

jedge76

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Here's an update on this tree. I pruned back to growth closer on the trunk and removed one larger branch that was helping to create the knuckle half way up the tree. There is some reverse taper at that point, but I plan on growing this out in the pond basket for some time. Removing more of the soil from around the base showed what I think is some nice little wiggle and I think when I do look at the roots again I can probably get down the base of the trunk a little further to show more. I won't work roots till next season at this point with having done that last summer and the pruning I just completed this summer. It's in good soil, save some of the nursery soil remaining and I have been giving it good attention with the spray bottle on the foliage--I add some HB-101 to the spray mix for good measure. It will be interesting to see what the knuckle looks like when the stub I left this season is removed next season. That's all I have for now!

--Joe
 

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Vance Wood

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You seem to be doing well with it. Though it has a couple of design problems at the moment you are on your way to providing the tree a way to grow those elements out.

ImFW 8118 has some real possibilities. I wold consider the portion of the tree on the right in this particular photo as being the best possible direction for this tree to go. Very often people with Mugo Pines make the mistake of being afraid to remove material. They therefore keep branches and limbs that are not useable, rendering a totally useless design,
 
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jedge76

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Thanks for the feedback Vance. I was looking at that right side branch as having potential as well. I will let it grow and recover from this year's pruning and see where the vision and new growth leads me to next season. Do you think too much was removed in this summer's cutback that I did? Seems like it should be fine, but I am always wanting to be cautious in some ways.
 
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