Acer griseum

[NOZZLE HEAD]

These trees were ice damage trees from a wholesale nursery, and I got both of them by “donating” to the pizza fund.

The nursery used a tree spade to dig them so they came with about 400 pounds of field soil apiece.

How I got them.

 

[NOZZLE HEAD]

I need styling advice this is where they are now, north tree.

 

[NOZZLE HEAD]

The south tree is not as much of a mess. I’ll post some photos if it is sunny tomorrow.

 

[leatherback]

Cool catch!

I would start off by just thinning out the lumps of branches, taking care to keep "juice pullers" above the wounds so they sort of close..

 

[NOZZLE HEAD]

Cool catch!

I would start off by just thinning out the lumps of branches, taking care to keep "juice pullers" above the wounds so they sort of close..

I’m real worried about how to deal with the reverse taper/ burl that formed.

 

[Shibui]

There is little you can do about an area that is already swollen but should work to stop it getting worse. Remove excess branches from that cluster round the top. Which ones will depend on where you want the 'front' to be. Hard to give specific style advice just from a couple of 2D photos. You will need to make the final choice in view of the total 3D look close up but I would only leave 3 or at most 4 main branches growing from that point. Remaining branches will probably be cut quite short so they ramify. That's where you will develop the canopy above so fewer branches at the initial divergence will still be OK.

I think the dead trunk is a feature in this tree so should be shown in the final design but the tree could be turned one way or the other to suit branches or nebari if that makes a better view. Probably hollow out the dead wood a bit as a feature instead of leaving that dead stump.

400lb of field soil is OK when planting in the ground but not good in pots IMHO. Are the roots still in field soil? Retaining field soil is not necessary for transplants to survive. Ball and burlap is now very rare down here. The vast majority of deciduous trees sold in nurseries have been sold bare root for as long as I can remember. Roots are just protected with damp sawdust or sand until the trees are sold or potted up in spring if not sold through winter. This may only be possible for areas with light frost but does show that bare root transplant is possible.

The trunk damage is old but these trees have still been through recent transplant trauma. I would be quite conservative about how much work on them until they show signs of strong growth.

 

[NOZZLE HEAD]

There is little you can do about an area that is already swollen but should work to stop it getting worse. Remove excess branches from that cluster round the top. Which ones will depend on where you want the 'front' to be. Hard to give specific style advice just from a couple of 2D photos. You will need to make the final choice in view of the total 3D look close up but I would only leave 3 or at most 4 main branches growing from that point. Remaining branches will probably be cut quite short so they ramify. That's where you will develop the canopy above so fewer branches at the initial divergence will still be OK.

I think the dead trunk is a feature in this tree so should be shown in the final design but the tree could be turned one way or the other to suit branches or nebari if that makes a better view. Probably hollow out the dead wood a bit as a feature instead of leaving that dead stump.

400lb of field soil is OK when planting in the ground but not good in pots IMHO. Are the roots still in field soil? Retaining field soil is not necessary for transplants to survive. Ball and burlap is now very rare down here. The vast majority of deciduous trees sold in nurseries have been sold bare root for as long as I can remember. Roots are just protected with damp sawdust or sand until the trees are sold or potted up in spring if not sold through winter. This may only be possible for areas with light frost but does show that bare root transplant is possible.

The trunk damage is old but these trees have still been through recent transplant trauma. I would be quite conservative about how much work on them until they show signs of strong growth.

I had to remove all the field soil to get them out of the back of my pick-up.

I put them in 55 gallon “nursery pots” because I didn’t want to remove any more roots than I had to. This summer will be the second growing season out of the ground.

 

[NOZZLE HEAD]

South tree.

 

[cishepard]

How did your Paperbarks do this year? Did you do any pruning, and if so, how did they respond?
I am trying to learn how to develop ramification on these with their long internodes and what seems like extremely slow growth.
I would also consider a major chop on mine, but have no idea how well they would bud out from the trunk, if at all.
There is scant information on this type of maple, so any insights are welcome!

 

[NOZZLE HEAD]

How did your Paperbarks do this year? Did you do any pruning, and if so, how did they respond?
I am trying to learn how to develop ramification on these with their long internodes and what seems like extremely slow growth.
I would also consider a major chop on mine, but have no idea how well they would bud out from the trunk, if at all.
There is scant information on this type of maple, so any insights are welcome!

I did a fairly agressive pruning of one tree in June, it did not really show any stress, but the dormant buds did not push secondary growth.

My plan is to prune the other tree during full dormancy this winter.