Acer HomeDepotnium #2

dbonsaiw

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This was the second big box maple I got last year. Figured I would post pics and some notes here for no other reason than it's easier for me to keep track of my trees this way. As always, all comments welcome.

In a sea of plain vanilla Home Depot Japanese maples, this one stuck out for its smaller leaves and somewhat butterfly coloration. It's hard to tell from the pics, but its nebari is basically a perfect cross.

This was purchased really early on in my bonsai adventures and I was clueless about everything, including soil. I "box-cut" his roots upon purchase and planted it in potting soil and a good deal of perlite. By the time I actually learned something about bonsai soil it was the first day of winter. So, in my infinite wisdom (sarcasm), I repotted him into Bonsai Jack universal soil mix. Still not 100% comfortable with bonsai soil, I also add some powdered moss (not my best ideas, although it seems fine as it wasn't that much). Don't try this at home boys and girls.

The nursery pot was buried in the ground until I repotted him, at which point it went into the mulch pile for the rest of winter.

Much to my surprise, a great deal of radial roots from all along the tap root grew - literally a giant bowl of spaghetti. I cut off the tap root and everything below the root flare. What was placed in the grow box was a much larger root system than I have left for any other tree.

I was advised by the bonsai gurus to leave it be to grow through summer and then cut it down to about a foot to see what shoots grow. Great advice, but I'm still too impetuous for that. So I chopped his trunk this spring down to about a foot and hoped for the best. Went to check on it this morning and water, and lo and behold the bonsai gods have smiled upon me - a bud has appeared really low down (either that or it has a pimple). I had sealed the wound with the green paste, but it's bleeding pretty heavily now and washed off most of it.

Spring is in full swing down in the south shore of NY. I'll wait to see what pops and will likely cut it down again in the summer to regrow from a new shoot.

As an aside, I have been pleasantly surprised at the low growing buds on my maple chops. I assumed the buds would first pop higher up, but that has not been the case.
 

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dbonsaiw

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Just a quick close up of the buds popping. All buds formed in the lower 4" of the trunk. The plan is to chop it down to about 4" or less in the summer and start building this tree. Still toying with design ideas, but I know I will keep it small.
 

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dbonsaiw

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For those of you who are like me and fret when/if buds will pop, all I can say is patience Daniel-san. This tree is now pushing shoots from all over the place. By the end of this season, I'll be in a better position to start ironing out my 5-year plan for this tree.
 

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dbonsaiw

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With all the setbacks in my garden this season, this tree is chugging along. I will resist the urge to chop off the top part of the trunk this season.
 

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rockm

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With all the setbacks in my garden this season, this tree is chugging along. I will resist the urge to chop off the top part of the trunk this season.
The trunk may have already "chopped" itself. All that low growth suggests to me that any portion of the trunk above the highest shoot is already dead
 

dbonsaiw

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The trunk may have already "chopped" itself. All that low growth suggests to me that any portion of the trunk above the highest shoot is already dead
That was my thinking as well. All things being equal, I would have just cut that part of the trunk off, but from responses to my other threads I seem not to really have a firm understanding of sap flow and what does and does not interrupt sap flow. I don't understand why in a situation like this where the trunk has likely died to a certain point (shown by a lack of buds there) that sawing off that part of the trunk would interrupt sap flow. I'm going to wait until early next spring when I can actually see the trunk to cut this one, but would like to understand sap flow better.

So far, me and this tree are on the same wavelength. I wanted this to be a smaller tree with the new leader growing where it is, and the tree obliged me.
 

dbonsaiw

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The growth on the branches is incredible and a pleasure to watch. If it continues to grow like this, branches could be several feet by fall. The leader is already more than a foot. Unless I'm missing something, my gameplan is to leave the tree to grow for the rest of the season and not prune any branches at this point. I obviously want the leader to grow out, same for the opposing branch. The remaining 5 or so lower branches I'll grow as sacrifice branches for now to fatten the base up. Other than caring for the tree and taking pics of it growing wild, next step appears to be a repot next spring.

Although I understand there's no scientific straight answer to this, was wondering if anyone had a back of the envelope estimation on the relationship between branch growth and thickening of the trunk. Does 250 inches of branch growth equate to 1 inch of added trunk diameter, is it 500:1, 1000:1? Obviously, this will change depending on so many factors, including type of maple and the specific tree in question, but this is more of "what to expect when you're expecting" kind of question - just trying to get an idea of what the tree may look like in the years to come depending on what I choose to do with it.
 

SexyGArdener

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Much to my surprise, a great deal of radial roots from all along the tap root grew - literally a giant bowl of spaghetti. I cut off the tap root and everything below the root flare. What was placed in the grow box was a much larger root system than I have left for any other tree.
I think it should be a crime to reference “giant bowl of spaghetti” roots and not provide roots porn for educational purposes. You stroked my interests with these words and now I crave satisfaction and fulfillment.
 

dbonsaiw

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I wasn't so good with the pics early on, so pics of roots will need to wait for the next repot in spring. But here's what's going on above ground - leader is about 20" by now.

Debating whether to use velcro to "wire up" the leader to the trunk. Any reason why this should not be done?
 

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Wood

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I'd be concerned about smashing low buds on the leader up against the trunk and causing asymmetric growth on any branches you'd end up keeping

Have you done the scratch test on the remaining trunk? This is the time of year that's best for making and healing large cuts (according to Bjorn)
 

dbonsaiw

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I'd be concerned about smashing low buds on the leader up against the trunk and causing asymmetric growth on any branches you'd end up keeping
The internodes are so large, I have no concern about smashing buds by using velcro. I was more concerned about water accumulating inside the strip and fungus growing in there.
Have you done the scratch test on the remaining trunk? This is the time of year that's best for making and healing large cuts (according to Bjorn)
I haven't bothered with the scratch test for a few reasons, not least of which is that I don't seem to get a really accurate read from it. I also wanted to ultimately chop the tree down to about 4", so I don't even need the upper portion. If there's sap flow, something would pop higher which it hasn't done.

I'm waiting until next spring to chop the trunk down also for a number of reasons. First, there's just no way I will be able to chop the trunk without mangling the growing branches and just think it will be so much easier when the tree is bare. At the very least, I will seriously disturb the roots with the sawing. In other posts where I address this kind of blind chop, I have been warned about mucking with sap flow by pruning again now. While I don't understand why this would be the case here, my other considerations are enough for me to just wait.

I'm getting the sneaking suspicion that I will be developing this tree for a number of years. My assumption is that it should take about 3 seasons to get my next section of trunk and then another 3 seasons to finish off the trunk and get some branches growing. So about 6 years until I get this guy into a bonsai pot for finishing. In short, cutting the trunk now only gets me less than a season of healing and runs the risk of messing up what I've done so far.
 

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If you want to bend the leader up, just tie it to the dead trunk with a bit of wire.
 

Adamski77

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This is the time of year that's best for making and healing large cuts (according to Bjorn)
I remember watching/reading this somewhere... do you happen to have the link to this video/article? ... I think it was YouTube...
 

dbonsaiw

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An updated pic. Leader has passed the 2 foot mark and the rest is growing pretty aggressively as well. Leader is on a slight angle.
 

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dbonsaiw

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Most likely good reason NOT to cut back when done😣. In future LISTEN to helpful advice.
The reason I was advised not to chop the trunk in early spring was because I had repotted so many times and at the wrong times in the prior season, not to prevent bleeding. The same folks have advised that bleeding is not an issue, although maybe unsightly, and kind of par for the course with Japanese maples. The bleeding on this tree was a very welcome sight - it meant my tree was still alive. Although I lucked out with this tree, the advise I was given was solid. This was one of 3 Home Depot trees that received my "special" repotting treatment and were chopped the following spring. The others did not bleed, nor did they ever bud. This guy is the sole survivor. I assume a contributing factor to buds only growing in the lower 4 inches on this tree was a lack of vigor due to the all the prior work.
 

dbonsaiw

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I pruned the branch opposite my leader somewhat so that me and the tree are on the same page as to which branch is the leader. There are a bunch of secondary branches, and tertiary branches are coming in. The leader is approaching 3 feet and is probably 1/3 of an inch thick at the base. Hard to say how much the trunk bulked up as I originally measured the trunk on the part that is now buried, but this could very well have put on 1/5 of an inch in thickness.

I am now considering two alternative paths to develop this: (i) cut the trunk straight next spring so that the leader and opposing first branch are growing at the same level 4" inches off the ground; or (ii) cut the trunk on an angle to the node directly below so that the first branch is about 2.5 inches off the ground. I am leaning towards choice #2, although this will give me a smaller tree. Basically looking at a tree about 7.5 inches tall.
 

dbonsaiw

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The trunk may have already "chopped" itself.
Thought this was informative. These are pics of the trunk above and below the highest shoot. As you can see, the portion of the trunk above the shoot is black and dead/dying. The portion below is nice and green. The tree indeed "chopped" itself.
 

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