Acer Palmatum Air Layer

Messages
143
Reaction score
89
Location
Northern Virginia (Zone 7a)
This yard tree had 5 branches coming out of the same spot on the trunk and one branch has already broken off. The arrow below points to a branch that I need to remove because 1) it hits the trunk at the same weak spot, and 2) it is extend too far and taking energy away from where I'd prefer growth. Instead of just cutting it I'm planning to attempt an air layer. I know that they don't take well with this type of tree but nothing ventured nothing gained. Couple of questions:
  1. Looking at picture 2 and noting how most of the growth goes one direction where would you recommend placing the air layer?
  2. When would be the best time to try the air layer?
  3. Bonus question: can I clean up old cuts on the garden tree with concave cutters or a Dremel? And if so how long do I have to wait?
I'm NOT trying to make the remaining tree into a bonsai style as it has too many flaws and it is a grafted tree anyway. This is my first year trying to do any work with maples as I mainly cut my teeth on junipers.

IMG_0407.jpgIMG_0408.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0407.jpg
    IMG_0407.jpg
    456.6 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_0408.jpg
    IMG_0408.jpg
    467.3 KB · Views: 22

dbonsaiw

Masterpiece
Messages
2,011
Reaction score
2,496
Location
New York
USDA Zone
7b
Is this a laceleaf? If so, it may not airlayer. Assuming it is even possible to layer this cultivar, you could layer the branch at whatever point you want the new tree. I assume the foliage is simply growing towards the sun, so once the branch is layered and repotted more straight upwards, other buds should pop. If I don't get buds where I want, I would graft. I also don't see a graft on the tree.
 

Topdec

Yamadori
Messages
83
Reaction score
149
Location
Nottinghamshire England
Only a Newby to the hobby but I don't see a promising tree even if the airlayer works off that main branch, if you're just using it for the practice/experience couldn't you try multiple airlayers of the smaller branches coming off that big 1!
 
Messages
143
Reaction score
89
Location
Northern Virginia (Zone 7a)
Is this a laceleaf? If so, it may not airlayer. Assuming it is even possible to layer this cultivar, you could layer the branch at whatever point you want the new tree. I assume the foliage is simply growing towards the sun, so once the branch is layered and repotted more straight upwards, other buds should pop. If I don't get buds where I want, I would graft. I also don't see a graft on the tree.
Yeah, it's a laceleaf so it's a shot in the dark. Likely not going to take. Nothing ventured, nothing gained...

In regards to the graft I assumed that swelling at the bottom wasn't just the start of a decent nebari but the point of a low graft. I could be wrong.
 
Messages
143
Reaction score
89
Location
Northern Virginia (Zone 7a)
Only a Newby to the hobby but I don't see a promising tree even if the airlayer works off that main branch, if you're just using it for the practice/experience couldn't you try multiple airlayers of the smaller branches coming off that big 1!
I might be able to work out a cascade or maybe even a raft out of it. This thing back buds like a dream.

Maybe something like this as a "target"
1681237435100.png
 

Topdec

Yamadori
Messages
83
Reaction score
149
Location
Nottinghamshire England
Excellent idea, I would never have thought of doing that. Fingers crossed your air layer takes, I'd like to see how that develops.
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,265
Reaction score
22,446
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
I might be able to work out a cascade or maybe even a raft out of it. This thing back buds like a dream.

Maybe something like this as a "target"
View attachment 481809
I hope you can get that branch to layer. Could be promising if it did and has the potential to work into something like the above. Too many times I see people air layering stuff just to get a two-fer tree--which typically gives them two mediocre trees instead of only one.

The branch is something worth taking, if you can get it. It's got movement and character. However. I would put the layer farther out on the branch, near where it takes that first bend upwards. I'd try to graft at the bottom of that bend.

BTW, lace leaf JMs can get scorched to a crisp in a container around here by July, as you probably know.
 
Messages
143
Reaction score
89
Location
Northern Virginia (Zone 7a)
I would put the layer farther out on the branch, near where it takes that first bend upwards. I'd try to graft at the bottom of that bend.

BTW, lace leaf JMs can get scorched to a crisp in a container around here by July, as you probably know.
Good advice. I'll try that location. And while I haven't yet put a maple in a container that was in full sun I do plan move this into a spot on my patio that is under the cover and only gets direct sun light between 2pm-6pm. Will that work to reduce burning?
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,265
Reaction score
22,446
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
Good advice. I'll try that location. And while I haven't yet put a maple in a container that was in full sun I do plan move this into a spot on my patio that is under the cover and only gets direct sun light between 2pm-6pm. Will that work to reduce burning?
2-6 pm is not great, particularly as summer approaches. Morning sun is best. Afternoon sun is intense and hotter...oh BTW, i didn't mean "graft" meant "layer." in my previous post
 
Messages
143
Reaction score
89
Location
Northern Virginia (Zone 7a)
2-6 pm is not great, particularly as summer approaches. Morning sun is best. Afternoon sun is intense and hotter...oh BTW, i didn't mean "graft" meant "layer." in my previous post
I figured you meant layer...Morning sun for me means I'd have to find a place in my front yard. Not the best idea but if it survives I'll look for a spot.
 

rockm

Spuds Moyogi
Messages
14,265
Reaction score
22,446
Location
Fairfax Va.
USDA Zone
7
I figured you meant layer...Morning sun for me means I'd have to find a place in my front yard. Not the best idea but if it survives I'll look for a spot.
I understand. I have the same issues in my yard. I won't keep trees in the front. Too many people around to mess with them. If you have 2-6 to work with that's what you've got. I would try to provide some sort of sun shade cloth or similar to block some of the summer sun, though. July and early August afternoons can be brutal for a JM in full sun in a container here.
 
Messages
143
Reaction score
89
Location
Northern Virginia (Zone 7a)
If you have 2-6 to work with that's what you've got. I would try to provide some sort of sun shade cloth or similar to block some of the summer sun, though. July and early August afternoons can be brutal for a JM in full sun in a container here.
My patio is covered by my (2nd floor) deck so I CAN move it back further to reduce the direct sunlight time as it gets hotter. I think the best I can do without attaching sun shade is 4pm-7pm.
 

mook1178

Sapling
Messages
42
Reaction score
27
Location
Newark, De
USDA Zone
7a
I would say 4-7 pm would be better. That 2-6 time is usually when the daytime high hits in most places
 
Top Bottom