Acer Palmatum 'Beni-Maiko'

[markyscott]

I think a thing like this would be hard to correct if you see it as a problem. You can easily disguise it in leaf, but one of the challenges of deciduous trees are that they are often shown in winter where the flaws are there for all to see. If it were mine, I might opt for cutting it off as, based on the pictures, it appears as though it might be more interesting as a smaller tree. But doing so should not be done lightly as it will take some number of years to rebuild the branch structure and canopy that you’ve built. When looking at a tree, my eye first goes to the trunk and nebari - that part of the trunk is what jumped out to me immediately.

Scott

One solution might be to try and find a front where that issue is not so obvious

S

 

[ConorDash]

I think a thing like this would be hard to correct if you see it as a problem. You can easily disguise it in leaf, but one of the challenges of deciduous trees are that they are often shown in winter where the flaws are there for all to see. If it were mine, I might opt for cutting it off as, based on the pictures, it appears as though it might be more interesting as a smaller tree. But doing so should not be done lightly as it will take some number of years to rebuild the branch structure and canopy that you’ve built. When looking at a tree, my eye first goes to the trunk and nebari - that part of the trunk is what jumped out to me immediately.

Scott

Interesting, ok. I was hoping the branches around it would help divert the eye away from it.. I will have to think on this one, as you say it is a big change. I currently like the height of it and am ok with that flaw, so it is just a debate in my head between what I am happy with and how it will be viewed by others.

Speaking of nebari - let’s zoom in for a look.

View attachment 308514

In this picture, it appears that roots 2 and 3 are oriented radial to the trunk. They’re good. Roots 1 and 4 appear to be parallel to the trunk an diving beneath roots 2 and 3. Root 4 should be easy to correct, but root 1 looks as though it’s substantial and probably fused to the trunk at this point. It gives and appearance of being flat on the side that the arrow is pointing to. But you’ve been in the rootball and can see this from more than one angle - is this an issue to you? What are your plans to imporve the nebari?

Scott

Ive looked at this closely in real life and this pic you have is the best show of it, I tried to get a clearer pic but no go. Im glad you pointed this out, i did not see it. I have not been in the rootball yet, since purchase end of last year, it has not needed repoting. Root 4 is movable, so I can look to change that and hold in place some how. But yes you are right, root 1 is more trunk than root at this point. For the most part, it does not look as clear as you have outlined. I'm not sure that could be corrected, if desired? Unless carved but I wouldn't want to cause a bigger eye sore by doing that. The other side which is hidden under moss has 2 good roots too, both radial.



In person, the "flat" fused root doesn't look so bad as the trunk is quite thick, so the flatness is slight I believe.
I will move root 4 to be more radial, thats a good spot thank you for that. Is there anything further on the nebari you would recommend?
In terms of my plan for it, I haven't had any plan for the nebari, aside from ensuring it stays in a flat pot to get more of a spread and flatter nebari, in future.

 

[ConorDash]

One solution might be to try and find a front where that issue is not so obvious

S

True.. well I currently try to style my trees with a more 360 "front" in mind. I understand having a planned front is very helpful but I do have that in the back of my mind, to look good from all sides.
I could potentially use around the base to cover that flaw or angle differently, as you say yes.

Very good points, thank you! Apologies for my slow reply. I will look at alternative "fronts" if in future this root flatness is a problem.

 

[markyscott]

Interesting, ok. I was hoping the branches around it would help divert the eye away from it.. I will have to think on this one, as you say it is a big change. I currently like the height of it and am ok with that flaw, so it is just a debate in my head between what I am happy with and how it will be viewed by others.



Ive looked at this closely in real life and this pic you have is the best show of it, I tried to get a clearer pic but no go. Im glad you pointed this out, i did not see it. I have not been in the rootball yet, since purchase end of last year, it has not needed repoting. Root 4 is movable, so I can look to change that and hold in place some how. But yes you are right, root 1 is more trunk than root at this point. For the most part, it does not look as clear as you have outlined. I'm not sure that could be corrected, if desired? Unless carved but I wouldn't want to cause a bigger eye sore by doing that. The other side which is hidden under moss has 2 good roots too, both radial.

View attachment 309275

In person, the "flat" fused root doesn't look so bad as the trunk is quite thick, so the flatness is slight I believe.
I will move root 4 to be more radial, thats a good spot thank you for that. Is there anything further on the nebari you would recommend?
In terms of my plan for it, I haven't had any plan for the nebari, aside from ensuring it stays in a flat pot to get more of a spread and flatter nebari, in future.

It looks better from the angle you show in this picture. When you do repot (and I suggest that you do this coming season), perhaps prepare by learning how to root graft (if you don’t know already) and having some seedlings on hand to carry out the procedure. If you see bare spots in the trunk, you can graft new roots in those places.

S

 

[markyscott]

A few additional thoughts - these are lower priority items, because I think you need to make some decisions about the trunk line before you start worrying about them, but I’ll offer them anyway as food for thought. The tree looks good in leaf as you’ve done a good job keeping the canopy in proportion. But a real challenge with deciduous trees is that they’re often shown without leaf and then all the flaws are obvious. You just can’t get away with some of the tricks that people use to create a nice looking canopy on a pine or juniper, because they use the foliage to hide them. So here are a few things to consider as you’re developing branch structure (remember - trunk, nebari, roots first and then worry about branches).



A) you have two primary branches coming out of the trunk at the same point. I think it will be OK in this case, but watch for swelling of the trunk at this point. You may have to reduce one.
B) Your wiring has improved, but watch the spacing. it’s easy to go from widely spaced loops to narrowly spaced. It’s not just a neatness thing - where the turns are determine where the bends in the branches are. So if you have widely spaced loops, you’ll have widely spaced bends and vice versa. Try and keep your angles the same and the loops uniform. And it looks neater.
C) It appears as though you might have three branches coming out of the same point. It already looks like there might be some swelling. Always reduce to two at any branch junction to avoid this. If it happens, it’s almost impossible to correct.
D) It looks like you‘ve introduced a strong bend at this point that’s out of character with the rest of the branch structure. I’m guessing that is to fill in a place on the outer canopy. This is a conifer trick - it will look weird when all the leaves are off. On deciduous trees, try to keep the bends softer and make sure that the branch structure make sense. You’re looking for branches that go upward and outward on deciduous trees. and they tend to move together. Take a look at some really good trees you admire - study Walter’s or Bill’s or some of the really good Japanese bonsai. There is a pattern to the branch structure - they tend to be lower angle further down on the trunk and sweep upward the closer to the apex you get. Branches near the top tend to be vertical. And all the branches work together - rarely will you see a bend like this. Try to keep to a pattern or it will look sloppy without leaves.
E) Spacing is good here and you did a good job keeping the wiring uniform. But the wire is not anchored. It will teeter-totter if you try to move these branches up and down.
F) Watch for obtuse angles like this at branch locations. Try to keep them acute.
G) Some of these internodes are pretty long - probably too long to be part of the final design of the tree. Let the tree grow out strongly at this stage. Keep the shoots with short internodes. Cut off the long ones because you won’t be able to use them as part of the final design. When the tree buds back and sends out a second flush, you’ll hopefully get a better shoot you can use.
H) Spacing is good here, but the wire is not anchored. As in E), the branch will teeter-totter if you try to move it up and down.
I) Watch out for straight sections like this without branches or movement. Remember, you build deciduous branches from the inside out. If you just let them grow out and then focus on development of the outer canopy, you’ll end up with long, straight branches with a poof of twiggy growth at the end. It won’t look good. Deciduous branches are made exactly the same way trunks are made. Let the grow out, then cut them back short. Then let them grow out again, and cut them back again. You repeat over and over focusing on the first inch, then the second, then the third, etc. You want good movement, taper and branching from close to the trunk all the way out to the branch tips.

Finally - when you’re building branches, focus on the leader first and then the secondary branches (the ones coming off the leader). When you get out to the tertiary and quaternary branches, you’re getting into twiggy growth and the leader thing becomes less important.

Anyway - those are my thoughts. Deciduous trees take time, but II think you have a nice tree with potential and you’ll learn a lot from working on it.

S

 

[ConorDash]

It looks better from the angle you show in this picture. When you do repot (and I suggest that you do this coming season), perhaps prepare by learning how to root graft (if you don’t know already) and having some seedlings on hand to carry out the procedure. If you see bare spots in the trunk, you can graft new roots in those places.

S

Good to know in terms of the angle. I wouldn't have imagined the roots would be needing a repot next Spring, but obviously at the time i would judge this. Would you only recommend the repoting for the reason of doing this root work? Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something you've seen, that it needs a repot for. Aside from the work mentioned.
I have seen root grafts used to great affect on a number of trees, Maples from Mach5. I would love to do this.. As this is a cultivar, I think a safe assumption is it is grafted on an Acer P root stock, so i will be on the look out for some Acer P seedlings in garden centres. Would love to root graft, I think it would make a huge difference.

 

[ConorDash]

A few additional thoughts - these are lower priority items, because I think you need to make some decisions about the trunk line before you start worrying about them, but I’ll offer them anyway as food for thought. The tree looks good in leaf as you’ve done a good job keeping the canopy in proportion. But a real challenge with deciduous trees is that they’re often shown without leaf and then all the flaws are obvious. You just can’t get away with some of the tricks that people use to create a nice looking canopy on a pine or juniper, because they use the foliage to hide them. So here are a few things to consider as you’re developing branch structure (remember - trunk, nebari, roots first and then worry about branches).

View attachment 309279

A) you have two primary branches coming out of the trunk at the same point. I think it will be OK in this case, but watch for swelling of the trunk at this point. You may have to reduce one.
B) Your wiring has improved, but watch the spacing. it’s easy to go from widely spaced loops to narrowly spaced. It’s not just a neatness thing - where the turns are determine where the bends in the branches are. So if you have widely spaced loops, you’ll have widely spaced bends and vice versa. Try and keep your angles the same and the loops uniform. And it looks neater.
C) It appears as though you might have three branches coming out of the same point. It already looks like there might be some swelling. Always reduce to two at any branch junction to avoid this. If it happens, it’s almost impossible to correct.
D) It looks like you‘ve introduced a strong bend at this point that’s out of character with the rest of the branch structure. I’m guessing that is to fill in a place on the outer canopy. This is a conifer trick - it will look weird when all the leaves are off. On deciduous trees, try to keep the bends softer and make sure that the branch structure make sense. You’re looking for branches that go upward and outward on deciduous trees. and they tend to move together. Take a look at some really good trees you admire - study Walter’s or Bill’s or some of the really good Japanese bonsai. There is a pattern to the branch structure - they tend to be lower angle further down on the trunk and sweep upward the closer to the apex you get. Branches near the top tend to be vertical. And all the branches work together - rarely will you see a bend like this. Try to keep to a pattern or it will look sloppy without leaves.
E) Spacing is good here and you did a good job keeping the wiring uniform. But the wire is not anchored. It will teeter-totter if you try to move these branches up and down.
F) Watch for obtuse angles like this at branch locations. Try to keep them acute.
G) Some of these internodes are pretty long - probably too long to be part of the final design of the tree. Let the tree grow out strongly at this stage. Keep the shoots with short internodes. Cut off the long ones because you won’t be able to use them as part of the final design. When the tree buds back and sends out a second flush, you’ll hopefully get a better shoot you can use.
H) Spacing is good here, but the wire is not anchored. As in E), the branch will teeter-totter if you try to move it up and down.
I) Watch out for straight sections like this without branches or movement. Remember, you build deciduous branches from the inside out. If you just let them grow out and then focus on development of the outer canopy, you’ll end up with long, straight branches with a poof of twiggy growth at the end. It won’t look good. Deciduous branches are made exactly the same way trunks are made. Let the grow out, then cut them back short. Then let them grow out again, and cut them back again. You repeat over and over focusing on the first inch, then the second, then the third, etc. You want good movement, taper and branching from close to the trunk all the way out to the branch tips.

Finally - when you’re building branches, focus on the leader first and then the secondary branches (the ones coming off the leader). When you get out to the tertiary and quaternary branches, you’re getting into twiggy growth and the leader thing becomes less important.

Anyway - those are my thoughts. Deciduous trees take time, but II think you have a nice tree with potential and you’ll learn a lot from working on it.

S

Am currently digesting this . Very very helpful and informative post, thank you.

A. Am also hopeful this won't be unsightly or bulge, as it is a large major branch.
B. Very good point, thank you
C. That is some camera trickery, I went to have a look and branch 1 is coming from another branch.
D. This is very good to know! I feel you have saved me a few years on that particular one point. This branch is exiting very closely to the other, so I wanted to make use of it but it mean't introducing that large bend. So, I think that branch will simply have to come off in that case.
E. H. Ah yes, see this was a point of interest for me cos I have seen this many places. It does make the seesaw (English version) but I was thinking, once held correctly and set, it shouldn't need to be moved anymore and will still create the desired effect. But its bad practice. The alternative is more wire.
F. Also very good point, I have not heard of this before, but you are right. Ill adjust that shortly.
G. Ah this is a big point for me. So, this was the first internode for the branch, so I felt I had no choice. But as you say, once second flush comes in maybe ill have more choices. I thought that the maple wouldn't back bud except to nodes? And this is the first node, so I thought I was kinda buggered, unless I removed the whole branch and hoped for a back bud?
I. Thanks, good spot. I thought that due to it being a major primary branch, I could be ok with it... It has some slight movement and taper, but you are right. I will have to think about whether I remove this to rework or leave in and be happy with it.. Food for thought.

I think, with a few of these "problems", I was looking at the main canopy and outline, and not thinking enough about every piece, as you said, the large bend is a good point.

This has given me a lot to think about, some of the bits pointed out, I can live with but its all about learning and knowing better for future. Much appreciation for this post and your time Mark.
Im sure this topic will be a big help to others too, in time!

 

[markyscott]

Would you only recommend the repoting for the reason of doing this root work?

Unless I specifically know that the practices of the person who has grown the tree are aligned with how I like to grow them and that they are equally AR, I personally almost always repot when I get a new tree In order to see what problems await me underground. Generally there are many; 1) old compacted organic soil, 2) large encircling roots, 3) bare spots on the root base, 4) unbalanced root structure - I could go on. All resulting from poor repotting practices. It is unfortunately EXTREMELY common to purchase trees from growers who, out of ignorance or neglect, have not done a good jobs with the roots. For a young maple like this, I would have repotted at the first opportunity. I’d likely have bare-rooted the tree and would have several seedlings on hand for root grafts if necessary. I highly recommend Boon’s repotting video - in it he works on a maple similar to yours and walks you through the process of working raw stock step-by-step. Most people I’ve shown that too or to whom I’ve taught repotting are blown away by how far their practice is from what is shown in that video. Just remember - that what is shown is a first repotting of raw stock, but my read is that it’s likely the process you will have to go through with this tree. Over time the point is to develop, through good practice, a good solid root mass with a core full of fine feeder roots. Once established in good quality soil, that core is not touched for many years. My advice is don’t take short cuts and don’t look for work-arounds. There is no substitute for careful work. If your trees roots look like those in the attached picture when you pull it up, you’re good to go. But based only on the appearance of the soil in yours, I highly doubt it will. Actually, I 100% know it won’t.



S

 

[Woocash]

A few additional thoughts - these are lower priority items, because I think you need to make some decisions about the trunk line before you start worrying about them, but I’ll offer them anyway as food for thought. The tree looks good in leaf as you’ve done a good job keeping the canopy in proportion. But a real challenge with deciduous trees is that they’re often shown without leaf and then all the flaws are obvious. You just can’t get away with some of the tricks that people use to create a nice looking canopy on a pine or juniper, because they use the foliage to hide them. So here are a few things to consider as you’re developing branch structure (remember - trunk, nebari, roots first and then worry about branches).

View attachment 309279

A) you have two primary branches coming out of the trunk at the same point. I think it will be OK in this case, but watch for swelling of the trunk at this point. You may have to reduce one.
B) Your wiring has improved, but watch the spacing. it’s easy to go from widely spaced loops to narrowly spaced. It’s not just a neatness thing - where the turns are determine where the bends in the branches are. So if you have widely spaced loops, you’ll have widely spaced bends and vice versa. Try and keep your angles the same and the loops uniform. And it looks neater.
C) It appears as though you might have three branches coming out of the same point. It already looks like there might be some swelling. Always reduce to two at any branch junction to avoid this. If it happens, it’s almost impossible to correct.
D) It looks like you‘ve introduced a strong bend at this point that’s out of character with the rest of the branch structure. I’m guessing that is to fill in a place on the outer canopy. This is a conifer trick - it will look weird when all the leaves are off. On deciduous trees, try to keep the bends softer and make sure that the branch structure make sense. You’re looking for branches that go upward and outward on deciduous trees. and they tend to move together. Take a look at some really good trees you admire - study Walter’s or Bill’s or some of the really good Japanese bonsai. There is a pattern to the branch structure - they tend to be lower angle further down on the trunk and sweep upward the closer to the apex you get. Branches near the top tend to be vertical. And all the branches work together - rarely will you see a bend like this. Try to keep to a pattern or it will look sloppy without leaves.
E) Spacing is good here and you did a good job keeping the wiring uniform. But the wire is not anchored. It will teeter-totter if you try to move these branches up and down.
F) Watch for obtuse angles like this at branch locations. Try to keep them acute.
G) Some of these internodes are pretty long - probably too long to be part of the final design of the tree. Let the tree grow out strongly at this stage. Keep the shoots with short internodes. Cut off the long ones because you won’t be able to use them as part of the final design. When the tree buds back and sends out a second flush, you’ll hopefully get a better shoot you can use.
H) Spacing is good here, but the wire is not anchored. As in E), the branch will teeter-totter if you try to move it up and down.
I) Watch out for straight sections like this without branches or movement. Remember, you build deciduous branches from the inside out. If you just let them grow out and then focus on development of the outer canopy, you’ll end up with long, straight branches with a poof of twiggy growth at the end. It won’t look good. Deciduous branches are made exactly the same way trunks are made. Let the grow out, then cut them back short. Then let them grow out again, and cut them back again. You repeat over and over focusing on the first inch, then the second, then the third, etc. You want good movement, taper and branching from close to the trunk all the way out to the branch tips.

Finally - when you’re building branches, focus on the leader first and then the secondary branches (the ones coming off the leader). When you get out to the tertiary and quaternary branches, you’re getting into twiggy growth and the leader thing becomes less important.

Anyway - those are my thoughts. Deciduous trees take time, but II think you have a nice tree with potential and you’ll learn a lot from working on it.

S

I can’t not reply to this, forgive me @ConorDash. All the basics of deciduous tree building in one perfectly succinct post. This is as good a resource as I have found so thank you very much.

 

[ConorDash]

Unless I specifically know that the practices of the person who has grown the tree are aligned with how I like to grow them and that they are equally AR, I personally almost always repot when I get a new tree In order to see what problems await me underground. Generally there are many; 1) old compacted organic soil, 2) large encircling roots, 3) bare spots on the root base, 4) unbalanced root structure - I could go on. All resulting from poor repotting practices. It is unfortunately EXTREMELY common to purchase trees from growers who, out of ignorance or neglect, have not done a good jobs with the roots. For a young maple like this, I would have repotted at the first opportunity. I’d likely have bare-rooted the tree and would have several seedlings on hand for root grafts if necessary. I highly recommend Boon’s repotting video - in it he works on a maple similar to yours and walks you through the process of working raw stock step-by-step. Most people I’ve shown that too or to whom I’ve taught repotting are blown away by how far their practice is from what is shown in that video. Just remember - that what is shown is a first repotting of raw stock, but my read is that it’s likely the process you will have to go through with this tree. Over time the point is to develop, through good practice, a good solid root mass with a core full of fine feeder roots. Once established in good quality soil, that core is not touched for many years. My advice is don’t take short cuts and don’t look for work-arounds. There is no substitute for careful work. If your trees roots look like those in the attached picture when you pull it up, you’re good to go. But based only on the appearance of the soil in yours, I highly doubt it will. Actually, I 100% know it won’t.

View attachment 309473

S

Yeah those are some amazing looking roots, attached to some good looking nebari!
I am with you on that Marky, I know a bit about it and I do try to stick with that principle too. I think the balance between "wanting to repot asap when you get the tree, because you cant trust it" and "Repot when the tree needs the repotting, as to not waste development time" is something I could change.

This tree came from a good seller, it is in only Akadama but I trust who repotted it. But if i can get some acer P seedlings, I will repot next year to graft them on any way, as I want to.
Thanks for info

 

[caerolle]

Im sure this topic will be a big help to others too, in time!

I know *I* have bookmarked it!

 

[ConorDash]

Tree is back budding well, I have now gone through and budded out a number of buds. The act of running out buds, I think I will pick up as a process on all trees, unless I specifically want untamed growth.
DSC_2005 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_2006 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

I also removed more moss to better look at the nebari. I am thinking of a different front that has a better show of nebari.

DSC_1997 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_2001 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_2004 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
Slightly different angle:
DSC_2000 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

This has pros and cons. Better base, trunk movement is fine, and the lower 2 branches then cover the larger tall trunks' boring straight bit.
Downside, there is less of the trunks/primary branching on show, as one is hiding the other.

Im not going to let this bog me down, the tree has a number of good views to it at different angles. Im very happy with this tree so far.

Next stage is allowing some growth from the pruning, replacing perhaps a few branches where the internodes are too long, and creating a bit of ramification with some secondary and tertiary branching.
The objective though, is allowing the growth but not allowing long internodes to grow HOWEVER, I do not wish to pinch for now. I want the tree to strengthen up for next year. I think I can achieve this by simply allowing some growth and cutting the new shoot at the terminal end.

 

[ConorDash]

All my maples didn't do so well, all year. This one did the best I'd say. Although I still allowed growth for vigour. The outcomes was some thickening in places that I did not want.
Here are some before and afters, for Autumn pruning. I purposefully left it messy first pic, no clean up down prior. I think it'll have another eye over it before Spring, for adjustments to styling.
Also, hoping in my new house I can sort some better place for permanent picture taking.. this was inside and flash.. so shadows.. argh, I never get these pics right.

DSC_2599 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

DSC_2601 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

After:

DSC_2610 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

DSC_2612 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
(Argh just spotted the too many branches from 1 point...) Ill have to sort that down to 2 branches.

This wound .. unsure if its any better but I trust its closing, just slowly.. I scratched it up again and re-applied sealant.

DSC_2608 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

The top trunk section, I have purposefully left quite thick and unpruned (pruned back long ones), as I plan to chop it.
View attachment 339619

I would like to chop to the red line, but I need to find out how Maples back bud when there is no node. Usually on a branch you'd prune to a node, Im unsure how it applies to trunks.. I would assume it'll bud around the chop site due to the cut off of auxin to all the above branches but I don't know. So, blue cut is to existing branches. Red is my ideal. Rebuild the trunk and apex.
This would happen in late Spring, when leaves have hardened off. 1, so I know the health and vigour of the tree, as last year wasn't great and 2 as its a good time in the trees cycle to make big wounds and it would be an unnecessary risk to do it at a less than ideal time. I'm in no rush.

The 2 lower primary branches, are coming from 1 point, which the rest of the trunk is also going from and I think its a mistake to leave it as it'll thicken, as Marky said above and as can be seen but... I like the natural look of the 2 being there. I don't want to follow this rule because its a rule but at the same time its very correct and a thickening will occur.. perhaps the thickening will be ok.. I don't know.

 

[ConorDash]

Work in progress... will look good one day.

DSC_2987 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_2990 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr
DSC_2993 by Conor Dashwood, on Flickr

 

[JPM]

A few additional thoughts - these are lower priority items, because I think you need to make some decisions about the trunk line before you start worrying about them, but I’ll offer them anyway as food for thought. The tree looks good in leaf as you’ve done a good job keeping the canopy in proportion. But a real challenge with deciduous trees is that they’re often shown without leaf and then all the flaws are obvious. You just can’t get away with some of the tricks that people use to create a nice looking canopy on a pine or juniper, because they use the foliage to hide them. So here are a few things to consider as you’re developing branch structure (remember - trunk, nebari, roots first and then worry about branches).

View attachment 309279

A) you have two primary branches coming out of the trunk at the same point. I think it will be OK in this case, but watch for swelling of the trunk at this point. You may have to reduce one.
B) Your wiring has improved, but watch the spacing. it’s easy to go from widely spaced loops to narrowly spaced. It’s not just a neatness thing - where the turns are determine where the bends in the branches are. So if you have widely spaced loops, you’ll have widely spaced bends and vice versa. Try and keep your angles the same and the loops uniform. And it looks neater.
C) It appears as though you might have three branches coming out of the same point. It already looks like there might be some swelling. Always reduce to two at any branch junction to avoid this. If it happens, it’s almost impossible to correct.
D) It looks like you‘ve introduced a strong bend at this point that’s out of character with the rest of the branch structure. I’m guessing that is to fill in a place on the outer canopy. This is a conifer trick - it will look weird when all the leaves are off. On deciduous trees, try to keep the bends softer and make sure that the branch structure make sense. You’re looking for branches that go upward and outward on deciduous trees. and they tend to move together. Take a look at some really good trees you admire - study Walter’s or Bill’s or some of the really good Japanese bonsai. There is a pattern to the branch structure - they tend to be lower angle further down on the trunk and sweep upward the closer to the apex you get. Branches near the top tend to be vertical. And all the branches work together - rarely will you see a bend like this. Try to keep to a pattern or it will look sloppy without leaves.
E) Spacing is good here and you did a good job keeping the wiring uniform. But the wire is not anchored. It will teeter-totter if you try to move these branches up and down.
F) Watch for obtuse angles like this at branch locations. Try to keep them acute.
G) Some of these internodes are pretty long - probably too long to be part of the final design of the tree. Let the tree grow out strongly at this stage. Keep the shoots with short internodes. Cut off the long ones because you won’t be able to use them as part of the final design. When the tree buds back and sends out a second flush, you’ll hopefully get a better shoot you can use.
H) Spacing is good here, but the wire is not anchored. As in E), the branch will teeter-totter if you try to move it up and down.
I) Watch out for straight sections like this without branches or movement. Remember, you build deciduous branches from the inside out. If you just let them grow out and then focus on development of the outer canopy, you’ll end up with long, straight branches with a poof of twiggy growth at the end. It won’t look good. Deciduous branches are made exactly the same way trunks are made. Let the grow out, then cut them back short. Then let them grow out again, and cut them back again. You repeat over and over focusing on the first inch, then the second, then the third, etc. You want good movement, taper and branching from close to the trunk all the way out to the branch tips.

Finally - when you’re building branches, focus on the leader first and then the secondary branches (the ones coming off the leader). When you get out to the tertiary and quaternary branches, you’re getting into twiggy growth and the leader thing becomes less important.

Anyway - those are my thoughts. Deciduous trees take time, but II think you have a nice tree with potential and you’ll learn a lot from working on it.

S

This is some great information thank you!

 

[ConorDash]

"Bear with, trying new image hosting"

Like I said last year August, ONE day it will look good. But it is not this day.

Grew well last year, good health, no major improvements.
May:




Fast forward to 10/04/22, I have removed a larger portion of the main trunk as I have been unhappy with it for a long time. Now it has movement and taper, the transition will improve in time. I am happier with this for future.
Rest of the tree just minor pruning. This summer I will cut back most of the tree and try to set in place some better bones for the future and try to keep internodes short in the apex.

 

[ConorDash]

It grew well this year, really fattened up some branches which its needed for a while I kept doing major removals.

Left to grow out all year to put on bulk






Only 1 pic for now which looks mildly presentable.