Adding Trunk Movement

RichKid

Shohin
Messages
457
Reaction score
17
Location
Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
7B
2013-03-20 19.41.34.jpg

Is there anyway movement could be added to this trunk? Would I need to cut it way back? I plan on reducing it more, but I'm not sure how much more. That top section is dead already. I just collected it. So I think it may be best to let it grow wild and let it recover some strength. I'm just thinking of future planning or maybe if there are any of those branches I need to remove in order to force a new leader to grow rapidly and gain enough girth to look convincing. I'm sure all the more experienced members understand what I'm trying to say, even though I can't explain it precisely. Thanks for the help.
 

KennedyMarx

Omono
Messages
1,708
Reaction score
427
Location
Indiana (Zone 6a)
USDA Zone
6a
It would need to be chopped pretty low, but I would wait at least one if not two growing seasons until the tree was established and vigorously growing before doing anything else drastic to it.
 

RichKid

Shohin
Messages
457
Reaction score
17
Location
Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
7B
I was wondering if there was any way I could chop it to one of those larger branches and create a leader out of it. Obviously not now, but in the near future, maybe 2014. With that in mind I was wondering also if there was anyway to help them add significant girth in the meantime, so when they do become the new leader the transition is smoother than it would be from a really thin new branch. Thereby decreasing the time to when the transition looks realistic.
 

iant

Chumono
Messages
525
Reaction score
336
Location
Redwood City, CA
USDA Zone
9B
You don't want to use one of those existing leaders higher up as the new trunk section. Those are only 1 seasons worth of growth anyway. They're too high. You'll have too long of an initial straight section. Trunk movement looks better when it starts low. I'd prefer to have the new leader start just a few inches from the base.
Just my 2 c!
Ian
 

RichKid

Shohin
Messages
457
Reaction score
17
Location
Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
7B
So whats a realistic timeline for building a new convincing leader from scratch? Just wondering what kind of timeline Im looking at.
 

milehigh_7

Mister 500,000
Messages
4,922
Reaction score
6,120
Location
Somewhere South of Phoenix
USDA Zone
Hot
Don't forget a new planting angle. I try never to plant things at a 90 degree from the ground. Unless of course formal upright, broom and so on is your goal.
 

misfit11

Omono
Messages
1,329
Reaction score
2,253
Location
Petaluma CA -Zone 9b
USDA Zone
9b
So whats a realistic timeline for building a new convincing leader from scratch? Just wondering what kind of timeline Im looking at.

This depends on what species this is (you didn't say, but it looks like a maple. Tridents are much faster than Japanese), how large diameter the trunk is at your chosen chop site, your particular growing season (you're in PA so its def less than what I get here in CA), your feeding regimen, etc.

It looks like you've got it in a fairly large container so it should heal over quicker than in a small pot, but slower than in the ground.

All that said, you could have a new leader that transitions well with the trunk in about 3 years (if you're lucky) depending on the above conditions.

Hope that helps,
Cory
 
Messages
1,972
Reaction score
1,423
Location
Coastal S.C.
USDA Zone
8b
I was reviewing some of Bent Walston's blog posts and thought you might find this article interesting:


http://bonsainurseryman.typepad.com/bonsainurseryman/2011/05/trunk-movement.html


In short I agree with the advice already given in that these branches are too high to make into a new leader. If you want movement you would have to chop lower down and grow back.
 

RichKid

Shohin
Messages
457
Reaction score
17
Location
Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
7B
Sorry for the lack of info. Its a japanese maple. Putting a tailors tape around it says 12 in circumference. Just holding it across from one side to the other says about 3.5 inches. Not sure how accurate that is.I don't have a caliper to measure.
 

RichKid

Shohin
Messages
457
Reaction score
17
Location
Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
7B
I was reviewing some of Bent Walston's blog posts and thought you might find this article interesting:


http://bonsainurseryman.typepad.com/bonsainurseryman/2011/05/trunk-movement.html


In short I agree with the advice already given in that these branches are too high to make into a new leader. If you want movement you would have to chop lower down and grow back.

That was a decent piece of information. Something I am familiar with. I have no problem visualizing a tree from a young piece that has not grown so thick already. It's easier to envision the chops and the branches usually aren't so much thinner than the trunk itself. I have several younger jmaples that I know exactly what I plan to do with. I've never started from a complete chop before however so its hard for me to know what to expect. I guess it's just going to be one of the trees that take longer than the others. I'm still young, so I'm in no rush. I'm just trying to get a grasp of what I should be doing so that I don't unwittingly set myself back years through an easily avoidable pitfall.
 

milehigh_7

Mister 500,000
Messages
4,922
Reaction score
6,120
Location
Somewhere South of Phoenix
USDA Zone
Hot

Poink88

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
8,968
Reaction score
120
Location
Austin, TX (Zone 8b)
USDA Zone
8b
Sorry for the lack of info. Its a japanese maple. Putting a tailors tape around it says 12 in circumference. Just holding it across from one side to the other says about 3.5 inches. Not sure how accurate that is.I don't have a caliper to measure.

Conditions, species, style, etc. permitting...I usually use my guideline or "formula" = no trunk or branch goes straight or w/o character for more than 3x the diameter (or 2" whichever is greater). Hasn't failed me yet but it is too early to tell. As mentioned there are exceptions and adjust as needed.

I do this ASAP...at collection if possible. Knowing how the species react to drastic chop helps a lot.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:

gergwebber

Shohin
Messages
398
Reaction score
9
Location
Davis, CA
USDA Zone
9
The angle change is a great starting place. You may consider thread grafting some branches into place low down to get a jump start on the chop process. This way you would have established branching pre chop, and at a good angle/location.

Have you considered a broom style? the trunk girth is good, and getting it to "move" and build more taper will take years after the chop; if you go for a broom, I could see it shaping up sooner.
 

misfit11

Omono
Messages
1,329
Reaction score
2,253
Location
Petaluma CA -Zone 9b
USDA Zone
9b
Have you considered a broom style? the trunk girth is good, and getting it to "move" and build more taper will take years after the chop; if you go for a broom, I could see it shaping up sooner.

This is a great suggestion for this tree. Maples are deciduous trees and I personally think broom is the best style for most D-trees anyway. Waaaaay too many folks style them in the typical japanese style which is basically a pine style.

Cory
 

RichKid

Shohin
Messages
457
Reaction score
17
Location
Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
7B
This is a great suggestion for this tree. Maples are deciduous trees and I personally think broom is the best style for most D-trees anyway. Waaaaay too many folks style them in the typical japanese style which is basically a pine style.

Cory

I was thinking that at first, but I wasn't sure exactly how to go about that process from this starting point. What would you do?
 
Top Bottom