Air layer preparations

Berra

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Hello!

I bought this fairly cheap korean hornbeam (carpinus Koreana according to the store) in 2019, and quickly regretted buying it. I have since come to realize i'm more into shohin. This tree is very uniformly, sort of unnaturally, twisted. It is as thick at the current base as 2/3 up.

However, I do like the top 1/3 of this tree, and would like to attempt to air layer it, maybe next year. Before doing this, I Wonder if it would help creating a bit of taper to the base-to-be, by applying a Wire tourniquet this year.

Any reasons why not to do that?
 

Shibui

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I take it you mean to apply the tourniquet to the base of the proposed shohin?
The risk is that cutting off circulation would kill the part above the tourniquet unless it can also grow new roots. Growth may be slow enough that it won't actually kill the top before you layer next season but I think tourniquet BEFORE layering would be risky. It would be difficult to match tightness to growth rate to get a good result without killing the top. If it is not tight enough to restrict sap movement it will not do anything to increase trunk thickness.
Layering will usually cause the base of the new tree to swell - both from natural callus/healing mechanisms and, as the new radial roots grow stronger that tends to thicken the base more too.
Sometimes the tourniquet is used in conjunction with layering. It probably does not actually increase base thickness but it does stop callus bridging the gap so rooting can be better.
 

Berra

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Thanks for answering. It sounds that the risk might not outweight the reward then. Good thing I asked
 

Berra

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Sure I can do that, this year it is too late though. We usually get down to -20 C temps in Winter and I don't have frost free storage for this tree
 

Berra

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Today I did the air layering. I have let the tree grow out with no pruning for two years, this year I picked it up from the concrete pot above and put it in the ground.

I disinfected the knife, and used ''clonex rooting gel" after cutting away the bark. The sphagnum moss was imported, not something I picked myself

Should I put something to block the sun around the layer?

Wishing the tree best of luck
 

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Berra

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Roots are now showing and have in one place (top) penetrated the plastic bag. Time to harvest or wait more?

should I keep as much foliage as possible after separation or cut back to ease the work for the new roots?
 

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jerzyjerzy

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I would separate it. It will give it time to establish before winter.

The issue with leaves is, as with many other things in horticulture - common sense (or KISS - Keep It Simple, Stupid ;)). When separating, assess the amount of roots, and the amount of leaves, and decide what exactly the existing roots are going to sustain, and cut off some leaves if necessary. I do not think that whatever you decide will make such a big difference this time of the year.

Keep it in the shade for the next two-three weeks.
 

AJL

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If youre still in extreme heatwave conditions like weve been experiencing here,it might also be worth keeping the tree wrapped inside a big clear polythene bag after separating and keep it in a cool place out of direct sun, then increasing the ventilation gradually in the 3-4 weeks till youre sure the roots are well established
 

Berra

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Thanks! @AJL I think we never had this heatwave you had this year. It is around 27 now though. I forgot to mention it is now 8 weeks from the expected first frost of the year
 

Berra

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Oh by the way, would you suggest planting it in the ground for winter storage, or in a pot so that I can protect it from frost?
 

AJL

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Probably best in a pot then you can move it into shelter eg a cool greenhouse or somewhere you can protect from severe frost. You could always bury the pot or protect under mulch to protect from extreme freezing weather- Im guessing your Swedish winters are more severe than here in England!!
 

Berra

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Wish me luck
 

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