Air-layering advice?

QuantumSparky

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I am starting to lean towards air-layering some maples on my property that I think would make great Bonsai but there is one thing I don't understand about the process.

When cutting the successful branch of new growth off the tree and planting it, is it necessary to keep the entire length of branch when planting, or can I cut it short? I'm not sure if it needs leaves in order to grow, or if I can just cut it back to a few inches of stem so that it'll put out shoots on its own.
 

sorce

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Depends on how many roots you get.

You'll get a feel for it. It's easier to keep them alive than it would seem.

More important than this is location on the tree, which most folks screw up.

And...

Sorce
 

Paradox

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It would be best to leave it alone for the time being and let it grow more roots and become stronger. You can start to cut it back the following spring
 

Shibui

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Leavees are the energy and food source for all trees. It is possible to trunk chop a layer when you remove it from the parent but that removes all the food source that promotes the new roots to grow stronger. They will usually survive but it will slow the growth substantially and the response to the chop is less vigorous at best and uncertain at worst.
Better to do a moderate chop first and then your full chop when the tree and new roots are well established in the pot - a few months to a year after separation.
That may seem like a long time for a beginner in a hurry but for bonsai it is better to think long term in years rather than weeks.
 

QuantumSparky

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Leavees are the energy and food source for all trees. It is possible to trunk chop a layer when you remove it from the parent but that removes all the food source that promotes the new roots to grow stronger. They will usually survive but it will slow the growth substantially and the response to the chop is less vigorous at best and uncertain at worst.
Better to do a moderate chop first and then your full chop when the tree and new roots are well established in the pot - a few months to a year after separation.
That may seem like a long time for a beginner in a hurry but for bonsai it is better to think long term in years rather than weeks.
So you're suggesting not doing a heavy cut until the roots develop more - is that the most important factor? Is waiting until shoots grow from below the planned chop point a factor as well, or does that not typically happen that low? I'm a plant noob, forgive the ignorance of how trees actually grow
 

Paradox

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So you're suggesting not doing a heavy cut until the roots develop more - is that the most important factor? Is waiting until shoots grow from below the planned chop point a factor as well, or does that not typically happen that low? I'm a plant noob, forgive the ignorance of how trees actually grow

You want to make sure the roots are strong before you start cutting back too much. The leaves feed the roots which in turn feed the leaves and promote new branches.

It will only form shoots below if there is a node there. On maples, there must be a node for a new shoot to form. They can form a new shoot there any time but since trees typically want to grow tall, they won't unless they are cut back.
 

Pitoon

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There is a balance between the roots and the leaves. If one or the other is outweighed the tree/plant will automatically rebalance itself. So if you have a large air layering with few roots and remove it the new tree will balance itself by dropping leaves and/or die back to what the roots can support.
 

Bonsai Nut

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Check out this resource:
 

Shibui

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So you're suggesting not doing a heavy cut until the roots develop more - is that the most important factor? Is waiting until shoots grow from below the planned chop point a factor as well, or does that not typically happen that low? I'm a plant noob, forgive the ignorance of how trees actually grow
The problem is there are many factors that influence how plants grow. That's one reason for many slightly different opinions.
@Paradox has given good explanations.
Whether the trunk will shoot below the layer also has many factors. Nodes have already been mentioned. Age of the trunk is another. The older the trunk the more difficult it appears to be for new shoots so sometimes it just does not happen.
New shoots do not need to be present before the layer is removed. Sometimes new shoots won't actually appear until after the layer is off. Sometimes it just does not happen. Such is life.
 

Bonsai Nut

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Sometimes it just does not happen. Such is life.
I agree. Call it luck, or just the randomness of Mother Nature, but you can try four air-layers on four identical trees, and even if you use the exact same process on all four, your results will always be a little different one from the other. Some air-layers just won't take, for no reason that I can determine, or an air-layer on one branch will fail while an air-layer on another branch will succeed.
 

Pitoon

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I agree. Call it luck, or just the randomness of Mother Nature, but you can try four air-layers on four identical trees, and even if you use the exact same process on all four, your results will always be a little different one from the other. Some air-layers just won't take, for no reason that I can determine, or an air-layer on one branch will fail while an air-layer on another branch will succeed.
I've experienced that first hand, I had 15 air layers on this shishigashira only 8 took and the rest failed.

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