Hi everyone! This is my first thread post so if the question I have sounds amateur or ignorant please forgive me. I have a green jalanese maple tree in a 15 gallon nursery pot, and I would like to bonsai it by cutting it into a stump over a period of years. I know major pruning should be done in spring, but instead of wasting the large branches, I would like to air layer them. I wanted to know if I should air layer the branches in spring, or if I should cut the air layer branch in spring. I'm more concerned with the back budding rather than the growth of the roots, so that's my first priority. The dilemma I have is whether the branch is considered "cut" by the tree during air layer or if it's considered cut after I physically cut the branch. I know it sounds confusing, but I'm pretty confused if I should air layer in summer and cut it in spring or air layer in spring and cut next spring. Again, my priority is backbudding so which ever gives me more backbudding is more important to me. Thank you.
Air-layering and back budding?
- Thread starter afir5687
- Start date
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Pruning always makes more back budding. It is still spring until June 21.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I've had layers bud out low in the bag.
Depends on the tree.
I'd cut one crap branch off, and layer one, and note.
Next year continue as per results in notes.
Welcome to Crazy.
Sorce
Depends on the tree.
I'd cut one crap branch off, and layer one, and note.
Next year continue as per results in notes.
Welcome to Crazy.
Sorce
leatherback
The Treedeemer
On japanese maples I judge the start or rooting by backbudding on the trunk... I have come to realize that when I get lots of growth below the layer, roots have started to sprout.
With japanese maples, the growth is so prolific that backbudding should not be a problem. Set the layer now, Separate when roots have developed and next year spring your plant will most likely be full of new branches.
With japanese maples, the growth is so prolific that backbudding should not be a problem. Set the layer now, Separate when roots have developed and next year spring your plant will most likely be full of new branches.
Ok I'll get started on my air layer right away, just a few more questions. How tall should I make the ring cut, or what formula should I use to make the 2 parallel cuts? Also, would you recommend that I buy rooting hormone in addition to sphagnum moss or just sphagnum moss? Lastly, when should I cut the branch to encourage the most backbudding in the original tree? If I wait until next spring will the winter damage the roots? Thanks.
Eric Group
Masterpiece
That all kind of depends on when you cut the branch and where you are located... IOW, here in SC, I can remove layers later because our winters are pretty mild, and our growing seasons are longer, so we can start them Later... If you live further North, it might not be advisable to remove it before winter. A good rule is to not remove one less than at LEAST a month or so prior to your first hard freeze, and even then, protect the layer over the winter from freezes as much as possible.
Eric Group
Masterpiece
Oh and you probably do want to use rooting hormone, though not 100% required...
Here is a thread about layering JM I started earlier this Spring... This is how I recommend doing it.
http://bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/new-jm-air-layers.19039/
Had huge, FAST success with perlite instead of sphagnum.
Here is a thread about layering JM I started earlier this Spring... This is how I recommend doing it.
http://bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/new-jm-air-layers.19039/
Had huge, FAST success with perlite instead of sphagnum.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
This must be just a coincidence that occurs in your location. The process of generating roots is quite different from bud release.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
THis I am aware of. The only explanation I coudl think of was that as the dependency on the original root system is reduced, sap flow into the layered section reduces, stimulating new branch development lower down.
