Air Layering Limits

Gr8tfuldad

Chumono
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NJ Pines
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7b
I have a coral maple that I would like to air layer in the spring. Is there risk in performing multiple air layers at the same time? Can you air layer the same branch in two spots (One lower and one higher). When I air layer, is it better to remove the bark above or below the node, or does it not matter?
Thank you for your help and guidance.
 
I have seen as many as 3 air layers on one branch. However, there must be enough side branches and leaves above each air layer for the roots to form. This thread will lead you to all the things you need to know.
 
I have seen as many as 3 air layers on one branch. However, there must be enough side branches and leaves above each air layer for the roots to form. This thread will lead you to all the things you need to know.
Thank you for all the information. I also guess my concern is stressing out the parent tree by doing too many at once.
 
Greenwood Bonsai did a YouTube video recently in which he showed a JM with about 6 successful air layers. Personally I would limit it to one per branch unless it is a very vigorous tree. He showed a comparison between using a split pot and the ball shaped commercial layering pots and I am now sold on those.

 
Greenwood Bonsai did a YouTube video recently in which he showed a JM with about 6 successful air layers. Personally I would limit it to one per branch unless it is a very vigorous tree. He showed a comparison between using a split pot and the ball shaped commercial layering pots and I am now sold on those.

I just ordered 50 mediums off of wish for $30. I noticed with the pods the hole in the bottom and top is significant enough to let them dry out. I solved this by wrapping them in Saran Wrap and sealing with electrical tape. I’ve had ones on for a month with them still being moist.
 
This is the coral maple I plan on doing in the spring.
 

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This is the pod after sealing it up.
 

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stonewool delta blocks are great too

I frequently do very young seedlings……..this Field Maple will survive although I found out the hard way these do not appreciate supplimental pure uv lights in my growroom,so back outside it went.
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Was that this years growth, semi hardwood? What was the strategy?
I never worked with rockwool. I have always wanted to. Peat always seems way too wet, after watering In the cuttings. So many rotted softwoods every year.
Thanks 🙏
 
Was that this years growth, semi hardwood? What was the strategy?
I never worked with rockwool. I have always wanted to. Peat always seems way too wet, after watering In the cuttings. So many rotted softwoods every year.
Thanks 🙏
Yes seedling tend to root way faster…..1-2 wks depending on seedling preperation.If using a rather low strength Motherplnt formula with all the added aminos and stimulants you can have great success…..as little as 6 days in a co2 fertilized growtent.
Simple ringbark and then weekly foliar feeds of kelp powder…once a wk …any more will burn leaves……and constant watering of the ringbark with fulvic acid and kelp poders in a 5:2 ratio or 1/8 tsp fulvic——1/16 tsp kelp powders…….no npk until roots.

I have really explored this in the past few years…….stonewool is favorite and most efficient for anything indoors
C0355CA4-78E6-4328-8BDB-F92F4BDE54E3.jpeg88DAED6C-4D26-42C2-A808-2D7D4B473274.jpegB30B5804-F18D-42BE-BEE2-4429549FACF8.jpeg1E89D760-05B0-4010-83DA-4E30142D4239.jpeg9351A3BA-2C8F-4C84-92F3-A4D630F8C8C5.jpeg
 
@cmeg1 these look great! At first I was wondering how you removed the rock wool

But the later pics look like it has been overtaken with roots and if it is visible its not by much? So maybe it just stays in?
 
@cmeg1 these look great! At first I was wondering how you removed the rock wool

But the later pics look like it has been overtaken with roots and if it is visible its not by much? So maybe it just stays in?
This is basalt stone and never degrades………
And essentially becames roots in growout……so yes you are correct👍check the JBP seedling cuttings at 4 mnths!
57D1E147-5849-435F-9F07-6F9A0C320F61.jpegCC1C6AB2-079D-4BCD-B89E-92B052CFA3A0.jpeg
 
I just ordered 50 mediums off of wish for $30. I noticed with the pods the hole in the bottom and top is significant enough to let them dry out. I solved this by wrapping them in Saran Wrap and sealing with electrical tape. I’ve had ones on for a month with them still being moist.
I think that will stay too wet. The sphagnum should stay moist, not wet. I watered mine daily when I watered the trees, water in from the top until it flowed out the bottom, never had an issue, even through the summer.
 
I think that will stay too wet. The sphagnum should stay moist, not wet. I watered mine daily when I watered the trees, water in from the top until it flowed out the bottom, never had an issue, even through the summer.
I think that will stay too wet. The sphagnum should stay moist, not wet. I watered mine daily when I watered the trees, water in from the top until it flowed out the bottom, never had an issue, even through the summer.
I opened it yesterday, since it was at week three. I wanted to see what was happening. The soil was drenched. It didn’t dry and seemed even wetter than it initially was at closure.
I took off the tape and opened the plastic wrap a bit. That way it can breathe and dry a bit. I am trying yo avoid having yo water it ever day.
 
Yes seedling tend to root way faster…..1-2 wks depending on seedling preperation.If using a rather low strength Motherplnt formula with all the added aminos and stimulants you can have great success…..as little as 6 days in a co2 fertilized growtent.
Simple ringbark and then weekly foliar feeds of kelp powder…once a wk …any more will burn leaves……and constant watering of the ringbark with fulvic acid and kelp poders in a 5:2 ratio or 1/8 tsp fulvic——1/16 tsp kelp powders…….no npk until roots.

I have really explored this in the past few years…….stonewool is favorite and most efficient for anything indoors
View attachment 397507View attachment 397508View attachment 397509View attachment 397510View attachment 397511
That is some serious root porn.
 
Yes seedling tend to root way faster…..1-2 wks depending on seedling preperation.If using a rather low strength Motherplnt formula with all the added aminos and stimulants you can have great success…..as little as 6 days in a co2 fertilized growtent.
Simple ringbark and then weekly foliar feeds of kelp powder…once a wk …any more will burn leaves……and constant watering of the ringbark with fulvic acid and kelp poders in a 5:2 ratio or 1/8 tsp fulvic——1/16 tsp kelp powders…….no npk until roots.

I have really explored this in the past few years…….stonewool is favorite and most efficient for anything indoors
View attachment 397507View attachment 397508View attachment 397509View attachment 397510View attachment 397511
What is Motherpint?
What is ringbark?
 
What is Motherpint?
What is ringbark?
Actually Motherplant fertilizer…always has a 1:1 ratio of Nitrogen: potassium(N:K).This promotes easier rooting in the cambium.Mother fertilizer also has Amino acids( namely L Glycine & L Glutamate increase calcium uptake 1000’s of times more by creating calcium ion channels on roots).This calcium uptake makes a better vascular system and a much stronger plant capable of being high brix( suger) content or lots of stored energy from feeding at lower strength and the plant not wasting 30% the energy of photosynthesis to assimilate nitrates!!!
More photosynthesis and a motherplant fertilizer can go a long way to increase rooting of cuttings and air layers………check the article by my teacher

A girdle is simply the ringbark method to remove a ring of bark two times the girth of the trunk including a lite scrape off the cambium to remove it all and will not re-bridge…….and proper new rooting will occur and be air/layered.

 
Actually Motherplant fertilizer…always has a 1:1 ratio of Nitrogen: potassium(N:K).This promotes easier rooting in the cambium.Mother fertilizer also has Amino acids( namely L Glycine & L Glutamate increase calcium uptake 1000’s of times more by creating calcium ion channels on roots).This calcium uptake makes a better vascular system and a much stronger plant capable of being high brix( suger) content or lots of stored energy from feeding at lower strength and the plant not wasting 30% the energy of photosynthesis to assimilate nitrates!!!
More photosynthesis and a motherplant fertilizer can go a long way to increase rooting of cuttings and air layers………check the article by my teacher

A girdle is simply the ringbark method to remove a ring of bark two times the girth of the trunk including a lite scrape off the cambium to remove it all and will not re-bridge…….and proper new rooting will occur and be air/layered.

Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. You have opened my eyes to a few things I’m embarrassed I didn’t even think about.
 
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