Jzack605
Chumono
So I know many use tin foil or plastic. But what about using a 4” pot? Is promix a suitable substrate for the layer or is sphagnum moss the only way to go?
Air layering substrate and container
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ShadyStump
Imperial Masterpiece
I was asking similar questions a while back, though I STILL haven't gotten around to the air layer projects I was planning when I asked.
The general consensus was sphagnum moss is the standard for a reason, but theoretically any material that can perform the same functions- hold moisture without rotting too fast or suffocating the the roots you're trying to grow- should do the trick. In many places it's common to use just soil lightly packed into the wrapping/container. I thought dried grass clippings might do the job, and others concurred.
As for your pot, there is a practice of using plastic storage containers with lids the way you're thinking. Thing is you need to keep the moisture contained inside unless you plan to water your air layer every day.
There are many threads here with a huge amount of information on various methods, and the plant biology principles behind them.
Just use the search function. That's the magnifying glass icon at the top of the page.
I'll see about finding some of the links to some fairly comprehensive articles and discussions that others have shared with me.
The general consensus was sphagnum moss is the standard for a reason, but theoretically any material that can perform the same functions- hold moisture without rotting too fast or suffocating the the roots you're trying to grow- should do the trick. In many places it's common to use just soil lightly packed into the wrapping/container. I thought dried grass clippings might do the job, and others concurred.
As for your pot, there is a practice of using plastic storage containers with lids the way you're thinking. Thing is you need to keep the moisture contained inside unless you plan to water your air layer every day.
There are many threads here with a huge amount of information on various methods, and the plant biology principles behind them.
Just use the search function. That's the magnifying glass icon at the top of the page.
I'll see about finding some of the links to some fairly comprehensive articles and discussions that others have shared with me.
ShadyStump
Imperial Masterpiece
Here's a very helpful one from the big man himself.
www.bonsainut.com
If some of the science of trees feels a bit overwhelming at first, don't worry. Just let it sink in slowly, and soon enough you'll be pulling the concepts up in your head out of habit without realizing it.
The science of air-layering
Because of the number of questions regarding air-layering on the site, I have attempted to pull together an overview of the science behind air-layering which will directly lead to a list of "best practices" and "frequently asked questions". I am going to try to keep the science really simple...
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
Almost any vessel that holds a media will work, and in today's plastic economy every shape and size are available almost for free, -just eat or drink what's in it and you're in business. These trees 17 months after the pdf file...
For really small branches or lots of small branches, the T cups for coffee work pretty well, too...
It doesn't matter how crappy or Mickey Mouse it looks, they all work with almost any media. The clear vessels make it easier to guess when you have enough roots to end the process which is different for every species and situation.
For really small branches or lots of small branches, the T cups for coffee work pretty well, too...
It doesn't matter how crappy or Mickey Mouse it looks, they all work with almost any media. The clear vessels make it easier to guess when you have enough roots to end the process which is different for every species and situation.
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Jzack605
Chumono
Thanks all for the advice and answers.
do you perform your air layers before, during or after bud break? Or is it possible any time as long as there is enough time in season for roots to develop ? My hornbeam I want to do one with is pushing buds now.
do you perform your air layers before, during or after bud break? Or is it possible any time as long as there is enough time in season for roots to develop ? My hornbeam I want to do one with is pushing buds now.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
I prefer to wait until the leaves are all formed and mature, theory being the are mature and actively sending the maximum volume of food back down the pipeline. But others will have different ideas.
River's Edge
Masterpiece
You can also perform air layers as buds break. It has been suggested this allows some time for callus to develop prior to roots forming as the leaves open and mature. Both times will work allowing enough time for most species to develop reasonable roots by fall.
MrWunderful
Omono
Ive had the most success with collanders and bonsai soil on layers, personally. Never got sphagnum pockets to work.
Jzack605
Chumono
Yeah I was doing some research and found now to be an ok time to do it. I went ahead and pulled the trigger and did it!
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
If one has a vertical stem around which they can place a pot, they should and fill it with their favorite substrate. The rub is that one must water it regularly just as they do their bonsai. If this is inconvenient, one can wrap/seal the whole works in plastic. Also, there are often troubles supporting/suspending a pot in a certain position and it becomes troublesome to inspect for bridging and/or the progress of growing adventitious roots. However the adventitious roots will be just like the roots grown on your bonsai in pots of substrate = very unlike the fragile, fleshy roots generated in sphagnum.
I don't think it matters particularly when one chooses to girdle a stem for layering. Generally I prefer to do it before the leaves are out simply because it is easy to see what I'm doing. I do have some circumstances where my decision about layering is contingent upon how the tree leafs out. Further, I think one could even girdle stems to start layering even in fall, excepting with a few species/cultivars that have very low winter phloem pressures. Regardless, nothing much happens until the leaves have 'hardened'.
I don't think it matters particularly when one chooses to girdle a stem for layering. Generally I prefer to do it before the leaves are out simply because it is easy to see what I'm doing. I do have some circumstances where my decision about layering is contingent upon how the tree leafs out. Further, I think one could even girdle stems to start layering even in fall, excepting with a few species/cultivars that have very low winter phloem pressures. Regardless, nothing much happens until the leaves have 'hardened'.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Just to confirm, it does not really matter what you use. The media needs to have air and moisture. The container should hold the medium in place. The rest is all the plant.
Hard to tell from your picture to see what you did. How well is the bark above the cut area covered with substrate? That is the part of the trunk you need to keep moist. The bottom is unimportant: The roots come from the bark above the top-cut. It looks like your container rides low.
Hard to tell from your picture to see what you did. How well is the bark above the cut area covered with substrate? That is the part of the trunk you need to keep moist. The bottom is unimportant: The roots come from the bark above the top-cut. It looks like your container rides low.
SeanS
Omono
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I like perlite or a 50/50 perlite/sphagnum mix. 100% sphagnum is a mission to get out of the fresh layer roots when it comes time to separate and pot up
Jzack605
Chumono
I think it’s just the angle. The top cut is well covered.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Until you separate the air-layer, the media plays no role except to keep the emerging roots moist (not wet) and allow access to oxygen. It is probably best to use a sterile media like perlite or pumice, or else sterile media with peat or sphagnum, which has anti-fungal properties. I have used sphagnum in the past, and it definitely works, but it is a terror to try to remove it from the young roots when you go to separate the air-layer. It can be done... but it is definitely a job for tweezers.
Note that you definitely want to avoid potting soil, or any overly organic mix.
Note that you definitely want to avoid potting soil, or any overly organic mix.
Jzack605
Chumono
I covered the pot with plastic to keep moisture in. Was actually thinking a benefit would be the ability to water from below through drainage holes.
Javaman4373
Shohin
Would larix larcina be an exception to keeping the roots moist not wet when air layering? I have found that the species will root while submerged in water in a bog.
DrTolhur
Mame
Can you explain this further?
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Since you only need to worry about providing oxygen and keeping the roots humid, you don't have to provide anything else. Remember - the air-layer is still getting all of its water and nutrient needs met by the parent tree. So you don't want potting soil or organic soil mixes that might clump, dry out and become hydrophobic, or serve as a medium for insects or fungus.
Similar to cuttings - you will typically get best results with sterile media. This is why perlite is so popular for nursery propagation; it is a baked, sterile medium. Pumice and other inorganic soils are similar (even though they might not be baked). One possible exception is rough cut peat - because it has natural anti-fungal properties, but it has its own drawbacks in terms of being difficult to work with and may attract bugs (depending where you live).
Pitoon
Imperial Masterpiece
If you use chopped sphagnum it comes out very easily.
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