Airlayering Juniper, Thuja, Cypress

TwilightTrees

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I want to experiment with airlayering a Thuja officinalis and some different Junipers, but I have no experience in that. I only had few airlayering results with deciduous trees. Anyone with advice on following questions:

1) Best time of the year for juniper airlayering? How long time is the process? Which season to start do the bark cut airlayering and which season to do the potting ?

2) Best substrate in the airlayering bag/wrap? What have worked?

3) Is it neccesary with rooting hormone? If yes, which kind? Which quantity? And how to apply?

4) Maximum width of the airlayering area spot?

I will be thankfull if someone can answer one or more of those questions.
Or maybe you have other experiences you can share?

Thanks a lot
 

Shibui

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I regularly do juniper air layers. There's no 'best' time of year. You will get results from air layering almost any time but the time to produce roots will vary according to time of year, species, age of the branch, location, etc. There's no such thing as average in the plant world because of so many influences.
Spring and summer usually give faster rooting. Winter gives a slower result while the plants are dormant. You have not given us any location so really hard to allow for your climate. Adding a location to your personal profile means that's available each time you post. I do not have to cope with cold winters so cannot offer any advice on how extended periods of freezing temps would impact on layers.

I've used sphagnum wrapped in plastic as well as potting soil in open pots (on plants in the nursery where they get regular water) and the results appear to be similar. Sphagnum in plastic would probably be better for layers on landscape and wild plants as the plastic and moss holds water better so need less attention.

Hormone is not absolutely necessary but, in the trials I've done, it does give more roots quicker so I'd advise using it. All the products work and each grower seems to have personal preferences. I like the gels and use clonex now. Use it as directed. More is not better with rooting hormone. I find gels and liquid convenient for layering as you can simply paint it on the cuts with a small paint brush. I see some who use powder make a paste first so sems more work.

I assume by maximum width you are asking about the thickness of the branch to be layered? Most of my juniper layers are thin - about thickness of a pencil because that's the material I'm currently working with and younger wood roots quick but one of the benefits of layering is that the branch can stay alive for as long as it takes to produce roots. I probably wouldn't bother with branches over about 7 cm diameter but it would still be worth trying. Remember that older wood tends to take longer so You need to be prepared to manage and care (occasional added water) for layers that may take longer to root. I'd also expect that larger layers could be more difficult to manage after separation as you'll have a large top with relatively few roots to feed and support it.

I have not tried air layers of Thuja but I understand they root OK as cuttings so layers should be good too.
 

TwilightTrees

Seedling
Messages
19
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Location
Denmark, Europe
USDA Zone
8b
I regularly do juniper air layers. There's no 'best' time of year. You will get results from air layering almost any time but the time to produce roots will vary according to time of year, species, age of the branch, location, etc. There's no such thing as average in the plant world because of so many influences.
Spring and summer usually give faster rooting. Winter gives a slower result while the plants are dormant. You have not given us any location so really hard to allow for your climate. Adding a location to your personal profile means that's available each time you post. I do not have to cope with cold winters so cannot offer any advice on how extended periods of freezing temps would impact on layers.

I've used sphagnum wrapped in plastic as well as potting soil in open pots (on plants in the nursery where they get regular water) and the results appear to be similar. Sphagnum in plastic would probably be better for layers on landscape and wild plants as the plastic and moss holds water better so need less attention.

Hormone is not absolutely necessary but, in the trials I've done, it does give more roots quicker so I'd advise using it. All the products work and each grower seems to have personal preferences. I like the gels and use clonex now. Use it as directed. More is not better with rooting hormone. I find gels and liquid convenient for layering as you can simply paint it on the cuts with a small paint brush. I see some who use powder make a paste first so sems more work.

I assume by maximum width you are asking about the thickness of the branch to be layered? Most of my juniper layers are thin - about thickness of a pencil because that's the material I'm currently working with and younger wood roots quick but one of the benefits of layering is that the branch can stay alive for as long as it takes to produce roots. I probably wouldn't bother with branches over about 7 cm diameter but it would still be worth trying. Remember that older wood tends to take longer so You need to be prepared to manage and care (occasional added water) for layers that may take longer to root. I'd also expect that larger layers could be more difficult to manage after separation as you'll have a large top with relatively few roots to feed and support it.

I have not tried air layers of Thuja but I understand they root OK as cuttings so layers should be good too.
Thank you a lot for good answer. I really appreciate. Well i live in Denmark with relative mild climate. Winter temperatures is hovering around freezing point. And this winter not many days with frost. You have provided a lot of info, but the best part is that it have given me motivation to try and error some experiment myself, since it sounds like is possible. I will try out different set up and see how it goes.
 
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