Alternatives to Ume especially for Northern Growers.

Leo in N E Illinois

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With my new moniker, "Professor" I thought I start a "theoretical thread", where I have not done all the work.

I live right at the IL-WI border, close to Lake Michigan. When I first started growing bonsai, my area was considered USDA zone 4b or 5a, now 40 years later, still living in the same house, my zone is 5b or 6a. My winters have gotten significantly more mild.

Back in the 1980's and 1990's I tried growing Ume, Prunus mume, with no success. If I wintered it healed into the ground (pot buried to the rim) late freezes would always kill of flower buds. Often freezes after leaf buds have begun opening would simply kill the young grafted or cutting grown plant. In the ground, they simply sprouted too early to survive my late season freezes.

In a pot, where I could winter it in my well house, protected from late freezes, I was forever "missing" the bloom, because it would start blooming in the well house and I would forget to check on it frequently enough that I would miss the opportunity to bring the plant upstairs and photograph it and enjoy it in bloom.

So sometime in the early 1990's I gave up on Ume as inappropriate for my climate. The theoretical part is now that my climate has warmed some, maybe Ume would do better for me now. But I have not tried again.

Key trait everyone loves about Ume is the flowering before leaves emerge. You usually has nearly a week from flowers beginning to open, to leaves beginning to open. So for us northerners there are a few "bloom before leaves" alternatives. With some of the alternatives, the period of only flowers being open is shorter, with leaves coming the third day or so after flowers open. But you still get the flowers with no leaves image.

Culinary apricot, Prunus armeniaca, blooms with white flowers before leaves, some culinary apricots are not quite zone 5 hardy, one needs to read their descriptions. Most commercial trees are grafted, but they do air layer reasonably well. There are other closely related Prunus species that are also called apricot, some are edible, grown for fruit, some for nut kernels, and some are ornamental. Prunus armeniaca, brigantina, mandshurica, & siberica, for a more complete list hit wikipedia or Ag Extension sites. Most have cultivars hardy in zone 5, & some in zone 4. Most of the species mentioned are white flowers, but some of the more ornamental varieties have cultivars with pink flowers.

Culinary plums, the main species is Prunus domestica, white flowers before leaves. Prunus domestica is the species the European prune plum is derived from. There are many varieties, with most of the variation in size and color of the fruit. There are hybrids with P. salicina with P. simonii and P. cerasifera. All have nice flowers before leaves. The blackthorn of Europe is Prunus spinosa, and has nice small fruit that look in proportion on a bonsai. Consult Wikipedia for a long list of plum species. All can be used for bonsai.

Culinary peach. When driving past Michigan orchards in spring, the purple-pink peach blossoms on the leafless trees are quite beautiful. With peach, the leaves come quick after the flowers, but the flowers are gorgeous. Peach is a larger leaf, more coarse as bonsai, but quite beautiful. Not as many species involved in peach, they are primarily Prunus persica. Even the nectarine is 100% Prunus persica in origin. Fruit is too large for bonsai.

Chaenomeles - a number of the flowering quince cultivars will bloom with flowers before leaves. Often Chaenomeles have a long extended bloom season, and will have a flush of bloom in spring and a scattering through out the rest of the year, including autumn and winter. Many varieties, larger growing and very cold hardy types like 'Toyo Nishiki' and the 'Doubletake series'. Less cold hardy are the dwarfs like 'Chojubai', 'Kan Toyo' and 'Hime' types.

Amelanchier, or Serviceberry or a dozen other common names. Amelanchier bloom before leaves open, with a nice white airy blossom, and are under appreciated. Every county in 49 of 50 states has one or more species of Amelanchier native to that county. Some are incredibly winter hardy, zone 3 hardy. There is an Amelanchier that lives near you.
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So this is my "short list" of Ume substitutes,

Anyone else have species suggestions for "Flowers while Leafless"? please add your comments.


Those are a
 

Underdog

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I've been battling with Cercis canadensis, the eastern redbud. Love the sight of them in late winter/early spring when the woods look so dead and dreary. The end of a long winter and beginning of mushroom (morel) season is finally here:)
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Pitoon

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I've been battling with Cercis canadensis, the eastern redbud. Love the sight of them in late winter/early spring when the woods look so dead and dreary. The end of a long winter and beginning of mushroom (morel) season is finally here:)
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Have you noticed a reduction in leaf size when potted?
 

berzerkules

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I started what I think are Prunus Sibirica seeds as a winter project to keep me occupied, they are looking happy and healthy. It will be years before I see any flowers if they even make it that long. IDK if they will survive here, seeds were collected about 300miles south of me in zone 4.

I talked to an old friend of mine today that I have not seen in years and apparently he's been growing all kinds of fruiting and flowering trees in his yard the last few years. He said he has several varieties of apricot he hopes make it through the winter and he can get more cuttings/seeds from a guy in town he knows. We're going to meet up soon talk trees and catch up. He'd not into bonsai but I'm going to try and convert him, I need at least one other person in my town to talk bonsai with.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
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Lilac and Magnolia if you want a challenge

A number of the magnolia species and hybrids bloom before leaves, an excellent suggestion.

My recollection is that lilac have leaves open when they bloom, so they are not a good stand in for Ume. They are later in spring or even early summer.

Witch hazel certainly is one I forgot. Hamamelis virginiana is the botanical name. Technically it is a autumn or winter blooming species, the one that is common in the northern tier of states. We had some on the farm. I would notice blooms before leaf drop, & while leaves were bright yellow. The yellow flowers against the yellow autumn leaves meant you usually did not notice the flowers. But through the first half of winter, after leaf drop, there would be additional flushes of blooms on a warm day in November or December. Witch hazel leaves are somewhat large, but not as large as magnolia, so they can be worked with.

In the Ozarks there is a spring blooming witch hazel, Hamamelis vernalis that blooms in early spring. In the nursery trade there are hybrids between both north American species and some of the Asian and European species. As a group the witch hazels are worth looking into.

Hamamelis virginiana

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Potawatomi13

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Magnolia roots in pots freeze easily. Have lost 2 here to this🤬.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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I bought some Prunus Incisa last saturday and the label says it's hardy to -20°C.

P. Cerasifiera, especially purpurea (or whatever the red leaved cultivar is called) is hard to get as a non graft and is hard to air layer. But both the flowers and the foliage have a nice color.
 

leatherback

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Forsythia comes to mind. Has that been brought up?

I think most forsythia are grown as bonsai especially for their spring display as they do not easily make really great trees
 

Canada Bonsai

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Anyone else have species suggestions for "Flowers while Leafless"? please add your comments.

Great topic!

I saw that you mentioned Prunus salicina, which I like! Jonas has quite a number of blog posts on the species.

Prunus triloba might be another good candidate. I am working with it, but my material is still far too young to say more.

I have started Cercis canadensis and Amelanchier canadensis using seed from 3 different sources (not different vendors, different sources), simply out of curiosity for what kind of variation one could expect. Still too early to report observations.

I don't think anybody has mentioned Acer rubrum in this thread yet. Attached are images of my teacher's tree. Seeing this tree in flower while leafless completely blew my mind, and since then I have been sampling with Acer rubrum. A few people have documented working with Acer rubrum incl. Michael Hagedorn, and I know of at least 3 very high quality specimens in Japan.
 

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Underdog

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Cercis do flower easily in pots?
yes and I even get a few fall flowers too regularly.
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Have you noticed a reduction in leaf size when potted?
yes but I put this one in the grow bed for a few years. Even then I cut it back this year and second flush was much smaller. Doubt it would ever get tiny leaves but for a larger tree I think okay. Thats why it went back in the grow bed:)
From a commercial/nursery pot standpoint its very reliable. Trouble is root reduction, I think.
Yes. It produced a huge tap root in one season in the bed and suffered dieback when cut.

That's why I stated "I've been battleing with..." in my original post. I have also not tried to collect one and they are so plentiful here. Challenging tree.
 

Canada Bonsai

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When I was notified that @Wilson liked my post above, I immmediately thought of Prunus tomentosa!
Here is another tree by Yves from Bonsai ENR!

edit: LOL Wilson simultaneous thoughts! 🤣
 

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Pitoon

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yes but I put this one in the grow bed for a few years. Even then I cut it back this year and second flush was much smaller. Doubt it would ever get tiny leaves but for a larger tree I think okay. Thats why it went back in the grow bed:)

Yes. It produced a huge tap root in one season in the bed and suffered dieback when cut.

That's why I stated "I've been battleing with..." in my original post. I have also not tried to collect one and they are so plentiful here. Challenging tree.
Redbuds are very nice when in flower. I read their leaves don't really reduce so it's good to hear they do a little. They could make some really nice trees on the larger side. I wonder if air layers could help with the root issue.
 

ABCarve

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This is Hamamelis intermedia “jelena”. This was b&b and has 2 growing seasons in a pot. Spring will bring a ground layer to fix its confused nebari. The snow photo was taken of the one I have in the ground in late January and 14F. Last winter the potted one bloomed in my dark unheated garage. The flowers lasted until mid march…. 2-1/2 months. Our warm spell has started the flowering already. They may be very slow to fully emerge. E7D4D0E8-66F4-4666-9544-2B15DCF6608F.jpegE7D4D0E8-66F4-4666-9544-2B15DCF6608F.jpeg2A29CE1B-FE0D-46B2-BD7C-A224479256B4.jpegA2E5ED26-4F99-4CCA-9AFF-BDFCC20EDA91.jpeg
 
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