Am I Correct To Apply Pesticide To This Ficus? It looks Like Everything Is Wrong

UnmovedMover

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Hey All -

I have a ficus that I've been taking care of since March of this year. The only work I've done on it was some light trimming and a good bit of wiring. Beyond that, I gave it sunlight, water, and fertilizer. It seemed healthy and happy to my rookie eyes all summer and into fall. I live in a 4a zone so this ficus was getting outside time during the summer months and in the fall moved inside to a south facing window. For a few months I noticed that the need to water lessened but everything else looked fine. There wasn't any exploding new growth to speak of, but nothing looked ill or unhappy.

Recently, I noticed a few leaves had fallen from the ficus. I thought that perhaps I had neglected it through the business of the holidays and is needed water. I gave it a pretty solid drink as I wasn't too concerned about over-watering seeing that I knew it had been at least 5-6 days since I had last watered it and I the soil components (see pictures below) are fast draining, not likely that some extra water would result in soggy roots. While watering the tree however, I saw more problems. Slight movement was enough to cause an alarming amount of leaves to fall. I collected the fallen leaves and laid them out as to inspect them and take some pictures, which I have included in this thread / post. Some of the leaves seemed dry, but none were so bad that they turned to dust when I handled them. The color of the leaves is what I first noticed as a major red flag that something was wrong. The tree normally has uniform, rich, deep green leaves. Now however, there is a mix of brow, yellow, and pale green mixed with the healthier, darker, coloring. Most of the leaves that fell looked unhealthy, but there were some that didn't look bad. One commonality with the leaves that fell off as I was watering was that they were all curling in on themselves (lengthwise so the two longer sides were curling up towards each other). In many cases I had to unfold them and apply a bit of pressure to get them to lay flat so I could take the photos.

As you can see in the pictures, there are several instances of what I believe to be evidence of pests. I had already watered the tree, including from the top through the leaves and branches. I don't know if I knocked away more of this evidence before I noticed it and stopped. I did my best to try and get these in a focused zoomed in picture but it wasn't easily done.

I quickly searched online and a few reference books but without seeing evidence of any active bugs I'm not confident in diagnosing what my unwelcome guests might be. Perhaps I did away with some through the extended watering, but I get the feeling this ficus is in trouble based on the amount of leavces it has lost (in the past few hours it's dropped a few more and anytime I so much as look at it, another leaf drops). The black spots in some of the pictures could be fungus, chlorosis could be causing some of the yellowing in the leaves? There are some white 'things' on some leaves, in one picture this can be seen and it's surrounded by sickly pale green, with the rest of the leaf looking more normal. Many leaves have a dried white powder type look to them, almost like hard water stains or mildew. My water is naturally hard but everything this plant has been given has gone through a treatment system. There are a few other growth/callous looking shapes on the branches. Many pest descriptions mention things like this, so I'm hoping the pictures might be good enough for someone here to have seen some of these things before. It could simply bne that he short daylight hours are taking a tole and I need to get this ficus under some grow lights. This tree was supposed to be in a greenhouse but through a series of unfortunate events, it is not, and I'm trying to make it work through this winter in my house. I have no problem getting it additional light and I could try and set up a small space with more humidity and heat (it's cold and dry by nature here). I don't want to change too many things on an already stressed tree but if the cold, dry, low light days made the ficus an easy target for pests to come in and cause more damage, it might make sense to make some environment changes for the tree ASAP.
I am planning on spraying the leaves and branches (top and bottom) with the pesticide I have on hand called 'Uncle Bill's All Naturla Pesticide' (pictures of it included with this post). I also have some Neem products and potentially a few others in the general garden supplies. I'm looking to see what people here think. Is the pesticide a good idea? Is there anything else I should try first? Is this a decent product to use in this scenario (if not, what might a better replacement be)? Is the environmental change a good idea to try now? Try in a week after seeing how the pesticide does? Anything else I can do to keep this tree alive? To me, this seems relatively dire, but I'd be interested to see how serious others think this is. Is this is a 50/50 chance the tree dies, or 90/10, 10/90?

I have some more pictures, and can take more as needed. I'm limited to 16 on this post and phone camera quality when ultra zoomed in is not amazing. Hopefully good enough to get some diagnostics done, but let me know if you want a specific shot or area taken again - I'm happy to do that!
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have!


Pictures:

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Shibui

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I can see scale on some leaves and on stems. Scale is a common pest on ficus. Oil based insecticides are usually used but systemics will work too. Check the label of the insecticides you have and see if they claim to treat scale
Soil looks good but some roots look mushy. That could account for leaves dropping. Soil needs to dry out a little between watering. Hopefully there are still some healthy roots to keep it alive.
Some spidery looking webbing on some leaves could be spider (no problem) or mites (problem). Mites love conditions indoors through winter. Miticide is best for mites as many common insecticides do not affect mites.

Some ficus will drop a lot of leaves when moved from one location to different conditions so some leaf drop would be normal.
 

MHBonsai

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X2 on the scale. Lots of them in your photos. Squish by hand is the fastest solution. Then treat with what you are planning.
 
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Hey All -

I have a ficus that I've been taking care of since March of this year. The only work I've done on it was some light trimming and a good bit of wiring. Beyond that, I gave it sunlight, water, and fertilizer. It seemed healthy and happy to my rookie eyes all summer and into fall. I live in a 4a zone so this ficus was getting outside time during the summer months and in the fall moved inside to a south facing window. For a few months I noticed that the need to water lessened but everything else looked fine. There wasn't any exploding new growth to speak of, but nothing looked ill or unhappy.

Recently, I noticed a few leaves had fallen from the ficus. I thought that perhaps I had neglected it through the business of the holidays and is needed water. I gave it a pretty solid drink as I wasn't too concerned about over-watering seeing that I knew it had been at least 5-6 days since I had last watered it and I the soil components (see pictures below) are fast draining, not likely that some extra water would result in soggy roots. While watering the tree however, I saw more problems. Slight movement was enough to cause an alarming amount of leaves to fall. I collected the fallen leaves and laid them out as to inspect them and take some pictures, which I have included in this thread / post. Some of the leaves seemed dry, but none were so bad that they turned to dust when I handled them. The color of the leaves is what I first noticed as a major red flag that something was wrong. The tree normally has uniform, rich, deep green leaves. Now however, there is a mix of brow, yellow, and pale green mixed with the healthier, darker, coloring. Most of the leaves that fell looked unhealthy, but there were some that didn't look bad. One commonality with the leaves that fell off as I was watering was that they were all curling in on themselves (lengthwise so the two longer sides were curling up towards each other). In many cases I had to unfold them and apply a bit of pressure to get them to lay flat so I could take the photos.

As you can see in the pictures, there are several instances of what I believe to be evidence of pests. I had already watered the tree, including from the top through the leaves and branches. I don't know if I knocked away more of this evidence before I noticed it and stopped. I did my best to try and get these in a focused zoomed in picture but it wasn't easily done.

I quickly searched online and a few reference books but without seeing evidence of any active bugs I'm not confident in diagnosing what my unwelcome guests might be. Perhaps I did away with some through the extended watering, but I get the feeling this ficus is in trouble based on the amount of leavces it has lost (in the past few hours it's dropped a few more and anytime I so much as look at it, another leaf drops). The black spots in some of the pictures could be fungus, chlorosis could be causing some of the yellowing in the leaves? There are some white 'things' on some leaves, in one picture this can be seen and it's surrounded by sickly pale green, with the rest of the leaf looking more normal. Many leaves have a dried white powder type look to them, almost like hard water stains or mildew. My water is naturally hard but everything this plant has been given has gone through a treatment system. There are a few other growth/callous looking shapes on the branches. Many pest descriptions mention things like this, so I'm hoping the pictures might be good enough for someone here to have seen some of these things before. It could simply bne that he short daylight hours are taking a tole and I need to get this ficus under some grow lights. This tree was supposed to be in a greenhouse but through a series of unfortunate events, it is not, and I'm trying to make it work through this winter in my house. I have no problem getting it additional light and I could try and set up a small space with more humidity and heat (it's cold and dry by nature here). I don't want to change too many things on an already stressed tree but if the cold, dry, low light days made the ficus an easy target for pests to come in and cause more damage, it might make sense to make some environment changes for the tree ASAP.
I am planning on spraying the leaves and branches (top and bottom) with the pesticide I have on hand called 'Uncle Bill's All Naturla Pesticide' (pictures of it included with this post). I also have some Neem products and potentially a few others in the general garden supplies. I'm looking to see what people here think. Is the pesticide a good idea? Is there anything else I should try first? Is this a decent product to use in this scenario (if not, what might a better replacement be)? Is the environmental change a good idea to try now? Try in a week after seeing how the pesticide does? Anything else I can do to keep this tree alive? To me, this seems relatively dire, but I'd be interested to see how serious others think this is. Is this is a 50/50 chance the tree dies, or 90/10, 10/90?

I have some more pictures, and can take more as needed. I'm limited to 16 on this post and phone camera quality when ultra zoomed in is not amazing. Hopefully good enough to get some diagnostics done, but let me know if you want a specific shot or area taken again - I'm happy to do that!
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you might have!


Pictures:

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I have used this homemade formula for scale & aphids.

Courtesy of the Milwaukee Bonsai Society Newsletter.

Pour 1-2 tablespoons of original Dawn dishwashing detergent and 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a gallon jug.
Slowly add water to fill the jug.
Pour part of this solution into a spray bottle and add 2 capfuls of rubbing alcohol.

Use immediately.

If there is any solution left in the spray bottle, add 2 more capfuls of alcohol the next time you want to spray your trees.
It seems that the contents of the gallon jug (soap and vegetable oil solution) can be stored for months without it going bad.

Spray on plants covering all leaf and stem surfaces.
You may have to spray from 3 - 4 times with intervals of 3 days.
Almost any kind of pest, including scale, can be eliminated using this solution.
It is not necessary to wash off the spray as no adverse reactions have been found.
 

Leprous Garden

Yamadori
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Dawn is not a good insecticide. If not diluted properly it is toxic to all parts of the plant. Go and buy a proper insecticide marked for scale (horticultural oil or Neem oil I believe but again just check them). Squish by hand as stated above and spray as directed.
 
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Dawn is not a good insecticide. If not diluted properly it is toxic to all parts of the plant. Go and buy a proper insecticide marked for scale (horticultural oil or Neem oil I believe but again just check them). Squish by hand as stated above and spray as directed.
I've been using it for years and haven't killed any plants. Which plants did it kill when you used it?
 
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Dawn is not a good insecticide. If not diluted properly it is toxic to all parts of the plant. Go and buy a proper insecticide marked for scale (horticultural oil or Neem oil I believe but again just check them). Squish by hand as stated above and spray as directed.

The part about toxicity may be true, I don't know. But I have been using Dawn in my neem oil spray for years with no observed ill effects. I mix a teaspoon of neem oil per quart of hot water, add a quarter teaspoon of Dawn per quart, and spray liberally (including the soil surface). Works a treat. I am starting to experiment with adding isopropyl alcohol to the mix, but still would not drop the dish soap.

@UnmovedMover you have a very nice tree and it would be sad for you to lose it. I see scale, spider mites, and possibly something else. You can scrape the scale bugs off with your fingernail if you like, but I find it unnecessary when spraying. Once dead, they will dry up and fall off on their own.

A couple more tips. Spray using a pump sprayer, the type with a nozzle at the end of a hose, and you will be able to spray much more thoroughly. Get EVERY surface - leaves, petioles, stems, trunk, soil, EVERYTHING. Then spray again after a week and monitor for a while.
 

Balbs

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The part about toxicity may be true, I don't know. But I have been using Dawn in my neem oil spray for years with no observed ill effects. I mix a teaspoon of neem oil per quart of hot water, add a quarter teaspoon of Dawn per quart, and spray liberally (including the soil surface). Works a treat. I am starting to experiment with adding isopropyl alcohol to the mix, but still would not drop the dish soap.

@UnmovedMover you have a very nice tree and it would be sad for you to lose it. I see scale, spider mites, and possibly something else. You can scrape the scale bugs off with your fingernail if you like, but I find it unnecessary when spraying. Once dead, they will dry up and fall off on their own.

A couple more tips. Spray using a pump sprayer, the type with a nozzle at the end of a hose, and you will be able to spray much more thoroughly. Get EVERY surface - leaves, petioles, stems, trunk, soil, EVERYTHING. Then spray again after a week and monitor for a while.
Do you worry about rinsing it off at all? Even with spraying the soil? This works on aphids?
 

UnmovedMover

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I think my plan is to start with a product that is specificaly for Scale and Mites (likely 2 different products). I jnspected today for mites and didn't find any so I'll potentially hold off on that one for a week and see how things are going.

What is the Dawn soap meant to improve in the performance of the Neem oil?
 

Tums

Shohin
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I think my plan is to start with a product that is specificaly for Scale and Mites (likely 2 different products). I jnspected today for mites and didn't find any so I'll potentially hold off on that one for a week and see how things are going.

What is the Dawn soap meant to improve in the performance of the Neem oil?
Spider mites are very hard to see but the webbing in your pictures looks suspicious. A contact killer like neem oil or insecticidal soap will get both scale and mites. I prefer to first manually remove as many scales as I can see. I either use a qtip soaked in isopropyl alcohol or just knock them off with my fingers. Regardless of what you do, you will probably need to repeat treatment within 3-7 days to get any eggs or bugs missed the first time around. Maybe even a third time after that to be safe.

Adding soap or some other surfactant to a spray can help it stick to leaves in a more even coating. The purpose-made products are sometimes called spreader-stickers.
 

UnmovedMover

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@Shibui thought the roots looked potebtially rotted as well, and unfortunately I just gave it a solid watering, but I feel like I've only watered it a handful of times in the previous month or more. Should I expect this amount of slowdown given its environment?

Would iy be better off if I got it under my lights and potentially in some setup to increase humidity all winter? I've been interested in boosting humidity to encourage aerial roots to form. As I mentioned this tree was intended to live in a greenhouse but thatbdidn't end up happening and I don't have a ton of experience with ficus and growing them in colder zones than they naturally exists in. Shiuld I be trying to simulate the natural environment year round, rather than letting them endure the short days and colder tempts of the Northern Hemisphere winter?
 

Paradox

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@UnmovedMover
Be very careful about using insecticides in the house. Most are meant to be used outside. Its too cold to have a ficus outside atm.
The dish soap/alcohol mixture is safe to use in side. Ive used similar using Simple Green and horticultural oil (not need oil) for my ficus for scale during the winter when they were inside the house.
If you go with that kind of mixture, it can work but you will need to reapply it every two weeks for 2 months to get through all the life stages of the scale
good luck
 

UnmovedMover

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@Paradox Thanks for the tip! I believe I have some horticultural oil products also...I'm going to check out what options I have and will go from there.

I just went to inspect neighboring trees and found yellowing leaves, which dropped off at my touch, and some webs, on the other ficus I have (pretty darn nice root over rock/aerial specimen).

Luckily those two, and one small Ponderosa Pine are on a table that is separate from the bench that houses the majority of my other indoor trees currently. I'm hoping that the space between them has kept these issues from spreading to everything else. I'll start checking now to be careful.
I'm reading that Scale can cause yellowing, brown spots, and defoliation - which is all my main symptoms. Fingers crossed that treating this will do the trick.
 

UnmovedMover

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Well - here are more pictures from the neighboring ficus. This one did not get a watering yesterday. All sorts of what looks like mold, mites, and I didn't see scale, but some evidence of pests of some kind. I did spray this with the natural pesticide I mentioned previously, so if the leaves look wet, that's why.


Pictures of Tree #2:

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sorce

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Those look like good spider webs.
I'd strip the leaves and pick the scale.
Blast it with a hose.

Don't kill the good guys.

Sorce
 

UnmovedMover

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Those look like good spider webs.
I'd strip the leaves and pick the scale.
Blast it with a hose.

Don't kill the good guys.

Sorce
That's what I thought as well - No signs of mites I could find (although I'm no expert).

Why remove the leaves?

Scrape off all the scale - roger that.
 
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