Amelanchier lachmarkii

defra

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This amelanchier was gifted to me by @leatherback in 2017
The tree had verry little roots but didnt realy skip a beat after getting potted up

2017 i left it untouched to recover strength.

See how little roots:
Screenshot_2017-02-05-23-18-28.png

May 2017
rps20170517_214541.jpg

The roots are bad and also the three trunks are so placed that i couldnt see a future for all three of them.

Made a plan a while back and executed it yesterday

Plan was to layer the two trunks off to build a double trunk tree.
 

defra

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The layering:

20180519_211632.jpg
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Before the work

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Cut off the trunk since it had no use for the future design and was in the way for the layer

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Cut off the ring of bark amd scraped off the cambium.

20180519_220516.jpg
The cleaned up result
 
Last edited:

defra

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20180519_222141.jpg
Filled up the soil some to support the pond basket

20180519_223748.jpg
Rooting hormone applied on the top cut

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Cut up the pond basket

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Stiched up the basket with wire

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Filled the pond basket with substrate
Zeolite and D.E. and mixed trough some cut up spaghmum moss and also added a layer of spaghmum on top!

20180519_231028.jpg
On its place and now ill play the waiting game.
I hope to be able to cut it lose this season but i have no clue on how fast this species grow roots when layered.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Autumn 2015, myself and 8 other members of the bonsai study group I belong to, the Arbor Arts collective, we all bought Amelanchier x grandiflora, we all got the same cultivar. The goal was we each would use our individual techniques to turn them into bonsai. The cultivar was one selected to be more tree like rather than shrub like, though most of the pots had multiple trunks, usually 3. Other Amelanchier at the nursery had closer to a dozen stems in a pot, so our selections were more tree like.

So I can report, in many ways this is a wonderful species for bonsai. Superb winter hardiness, flowering not affected by late frosts, even though it flowers quite early, before Redbud (Cercis) with Forsythia. I have not had to provide any temperature protection, just set the pot on the ground, and you are good to -20 F (-28 C). The smooth gray bark is reminiscent of beech or hornbeam. Really nice. All our trees had at least one trunk over 1 inch diameter (over 2.5 cm) a bit too thin for bonsai but getting close enough that beefing a tree up during training should be possible.

Amelanchier are in the apple family, susceptible to all the diseases that apples can carry, however, as a group they seem much more disease resistant than most crab apples. Nobody in the group has had to spray them in the 2.5 years we've had them. They in theory could catch all the known apple diseases. they do seem resistant.

Roots, they seem to put out roots much like an apple. However they seem more reluctant to root cuttings. Several of us tried rooting cuttings off branches we trimmed, and no luck. (none of us used bottom heat or mist systems) This may suggest ground or air layering will be slower than an apple, but none of us have done a ground layer. For the ground layer above, I would not even look for roots until after first frost in autumn. I would probably just leave the set up intact until autumn 2019 or early spring 2020. Growth will tell you if it took. If it returns to rapid growth, similar to pre-ground layer growth rate, it has most likely put out roots. With the known tendency for the species to produce suckers, and spread by suckers, I have to assume they will indeed produce roots on any part of the trunk that is buried. But it might not be as quick as one or two months.

They are apples relatives, deciduous, they definitely like some organic in their potting mix. The AAC member who put theirs in all inorganic have reported poorer growth than those of us who used a richer medium with at least 25 % or more organics. This is in spite of the fact that we have seen them wild in some fairly barren soils. The species forms are common in the sand counties of northern lower peninsula of Michigan, common in Wisconsin sand counties too.

We have found that the books are right, they are slow to ''trunk up'', none of us have reported much diameter change in our trunks since purchase. Some thickening, but not a large amount. I am working on getting my fairly sparse tree in an Anderson flat to get bush, it is happening, but somewhat slowly. It set quite a bit of fruit this year. They do stop flowering after being trunk chopped. Those of us who chopped ours right away still have no flowers 3rd growing season. I kept one tall, chopped on low right away. The tall one blooms nicely even after serious root work. Chop victim has yet to bloom. They do not produce blooming spurs they way culinary apples do.

So all in all, I think it is a good species for bonsai, with high potential to make nice specimens. With the slow trunk development, probably best for sizes that finish below 3 feet tall (below 1 meter). Likely good for shohin and next size up bonsai. Leaves are naturally a little smaller than a crab apple, and with work should reduce nicely. Spring flowers come in early, normally pure white, and open before apples, about the time plums and cherries open. Autumn color is nice, yellows blending to oranges and reds. Fruit ripens early, locally late June or early July. Flavor is interesting, like apple with almond, you eat the fruit seeds and all. Texture is a little dry, being touted as a ''super fruit'' or the ''the next big hit at the farmer's markets'', but frankly it is just mild and bland enough I doubt it will really take off as a market fruit.

Amelanchier1-April2016d.jpg

Amelanchier2-April2016b-close.jpg

DSCN4192.jpg

DSCN3335.jpg
 

defra

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Autumn 2015, myself and 8 other members of the bonsai study group I belong to, the Arbor Arts collective, we all bought Amelanchier x grandiflora, we all got the same cultivar. The goal was we each would use our individual techniques to turn them into bonsai. The cultivar was one selected to be more tree like rather than shrub like, though most of the pots had multiple trunks, usually 3. Other Amelanchier at the nursery had closer to a dozen stems in a pot, so our selections were more tree like.

So I can report, in many ways this is a wonderful species for bonsai. Superb winter hardiness, flowering not affected by late frosts, even though it flowers quite early, before Redbud (Cercis) with Forsythia. I have not had to provide any temperature protection, just set the pot on the ground, and you are good to -20 F (-28 C). The smooth gray bark is reminiscent of beech or hornbeam. Really nice. All our trees had at least one trunk over 1 inch diameter (over 2.5 cm) a bit too thin for bonsai but getting close enough that beefing a tree up during training should be possible.

Amelanchier are in the apple family, susceptible to all the diseases that apples can carry, however, as a group they seem much more disease resistant than most crab apples. Nobody in the group has had to spray them in the 2.5 years we've had them. They in theory could catch all the known apple diseases. they do seem resistant.

Roots, they seem to put out roots much like an apple. However they seem more reluctant to root cuttings. Several of us tried rooting cuttings off branches we trimmed, and no luck. (none of us used bottom heat or mist systems) This may suggest ground or air layering will be slower than an apple, but none of us have done a ground layer. For the ground layer above, I would not even look for roots until after first frost in autumn. I would probably just leave the set up intact until autumn 2019 or early spring 2020. Growth will tell you if it took. If it returns to rapid growth, similar to pre-ground layer growth rate, it has most likely put out roots. With the known tendency for the species to produce suckers, and spread by suckers, I have to assume they will indeed produce roots on any part of the trunk that is buried. But it might not be as quick as one or two months.

They are apples relatives, deciduous, they definitely like some organic in their potting mix. The AAC member who put theirs in all inorganic have reported poorer growth than those of us who used a richer medium with at least 25 % or more organics. This is in spite of the fact that we have seen them wild in some fairly barren soils. The species forms are common in the sand counties of northern lower peninsula of Michigan, common in Wisconsin sand counties too.

We have found that the books are right, they are slow to ''trunk up'', none of us have reported much diameter change in our trunks since purchase. Some thickening, but not a large amount. I am working on getting my fairly sparse tree in an Anderson flat to get bush, it is happening, but somewhat slowly. It set quite a bit of fruit this year. They do stop flowering after being trunk chopped. Those of us who chopped ours right away still have no flowers 3rd growing season. I kept one tall, chopped on low right away. The tall one blooms nicely even after serious root work. Chop victim has yet to bloom. They do not produce blooming spurs they way culinary apples do.

So all in all, I think it is a good species for bonsai, with high potential to make nice specimens. With the slow trunk development, probably best for sizes that finish below 3 feet tall (below 1 meter). Likely good for shohin and next size up bonsai. Leaves are naturally a little smaller than a crab apple, and with work should reduce nicely. Spring flowers come in early, normally pure white, and open before apples, about the time plums and cherries open. Autumn color is nice, yellows blending to oranges and reds. Fruit ripens early, locally late June or early July. Flavor is interesting, like apple with almond, you eat the fruit seeds and all. Texture is a little dry, being touted as a ''super fruit'' or the ''the next big hit at the farmer's markets'', but frankly it is just mild and bland enough I doubt it will really take off as a market fruit.

View attachment 193169

View attachment 193170

View attachment 193171

View attachment 193172
Thnx allot for this leo!
Much appriciated
Ill update here if the layer is succesfull
 

Tycoss

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My amalanchier is a very old collected beast. The roots don’t seem as vigorous on it as my little ones in the landscape. It’s got to see they can be air layered well. Mine has roots like stilts (although I kind of like them).2B572926-3D83-439C-BC24-E9CAFDF5C89F.jpeg
 

defra

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My amalanchier is a very old collected beast. The roots don’t seem as vigorous on it as my little ones in the landscape. It’s got to see they can be air layered well. Mine has roots like stilts (although I kind of like them).View attachment 206495
Nice thats a beast isnt it?
 

defra

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The airlayer is succesfull i guess i dug around the soil some last week and found a fair amount of roots in there,
I still left it atached and will separate it and pot it up at budbreak in spring.

The crate its in is kinda heavy so id rather leave it in its spot comming winter but i am wondering what will be the best way to protect the layer against the frost, any suggestions are welcome
 

leatherback

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Out on a limb here but.. The roots in itself are as frost resistent as the rest of the rootball. So make sure you do not let it experience worse circumstances as tthe rest of the roots. Maybe you can -to go certain- are mulch / bark around the vijvermandje, just to reduce during short frost/thaw cycles. I think however that you have not much to worry about (Certainly not considering the joke of a winter we are having at the moment)
 

defra

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Out on a limb here but.. The roots in itself are as frost resistent as the rest of the rootball. So make sure you do not let it experience worse circumstances as tthe rest of the roots. Maybe you can -to go certain- are mulch / bark around the vijvermandje, just to reduce during short frost/thaw cycles. I think however that you have not much to worry about (Certainly not considering the joke of a winter we are having at the moment)

True so far i dont consider this winter yet still allot of tree's with the leaves green on them
Il just wrap the sides of the pond basket in bubbeltjesplastic to ensure that the cold wind cant reach the root tips close to the sides of the pond basket guess that will do then
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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@defra - I would not worry at all about your new roots. Amelanchier is incredibly cold hardy. I'm serious, I have made zero effort to protect my two trees and we have 3 or 4 days of -28 C at night and we will have week long spells where the daytime highs will not get any warmer than -12 C every winter. These are very cold hardy. If you feel the need to do anything, wrap the sides and top of the pot with burlap, to serve as a windbreak, because the open weave the the pond basket may allow the root ball to dry too much. But seriously, Amelanchier definitely needs a cold dormancy, if you try to protect this tree too much, you could harm it by not giving it a sufficiently cold winter. You list yourself as being in zone 8, which in the USA is almost too warm for Amelanchier. So don't baby it.
 

defra

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Sepparated this airlayer yesterday
One part did not root good enough do reopened the wound aplied rooting hormone and potted it up

Now it may grow this season maybe i Will try to do some thread grafts to get some primary branches were i want them
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