American beech styling ideas

David wv

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This American beech, I collected 2 years ago. It has 4"-5" base, and has been growing untouched. I am just looking for ideas on what direction to go with this tree. I'm am not a fan of the type of broom style where the trunk splits into two leaders of equal size. I just don't want to create one of those trees that has that ugly Y, that stands out. I guess as long as I keep one of the two smaller, it may look okay? Any advice on which branches should go, upper and lower branches? My gut is telling me, the lower branches should go to highlight the trunk, making a broom style type tree. But a more experienced eye might see how they could be used and add to the design. Any ideas or advice or suggestions, would be appreciated.20230316_204838.jpg20230316_205036.jpg20230316_205051.jpg20230316_205831.jpg20230316_205853.jpg20230316_205905.jpg20230318_140027.jpg
 

David wv

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Also, any thoughts on pruning back to dormant (not swollen) buds this time of year? Also if anyone has experience with American beech, how to handle them to get good internode length and ramification.
 

BobbyLane

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Its not what I would do, I would keep the two pronged top. this is based on what you said you dont like. I would also keep the low branches
heres an Elm pulled from the net with a two pronged top and low branches brought up
 

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BobbyLane

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Two pronged top I did on an elm, if done properly, you dont get an ugly Y shape as you put it. this is what id do on the beech
 

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BobbyLane

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so id keep the low bits and the top bits, heres a beech n hornbeam. straight trunks two pronged tops.
if you want to build it to look good from different angles, you dont make the sloping cut to one leader. theres nothing to help heal the resulting wound underneath it apart from a shoot near the base.
 

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David wv

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so id keep the low bits and the top bits, heres a beech n hornbeam. straight trunks two pronged tops.
if you want to build it to look good from different angles, you dont make the sloping cut to one leader. theres nothing to help heal the resulting wound underneath it apart from a shoot near the base.
I like that, I love a natural looking tree. I just don't want the Y to stand out, looking like a slingshot. Would you say to avoid that, I should keep them from looking symmetrical, growing the one that's higher on the trunk, bigger? And possibly wiring the other a little more outward than upward? And I agree, if I did the sloping cut, it might start rotting all the way down to the lower branches on that side. Hopefully it doesn't do that anyways.
 

BobbyLane

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I like that, I love a natural looking tree. I just don't want the Y to stand out, looking like a slingshot. Would you say to avoid that, I should keep them from looking symmetrical, growing the one that's higher on the trunk, bigger? And possibly wiring the other a little more outward than upward? And I agree, if I did the sloping cut, it might start rotting all the way down to the lower branches on that side. Hopefully it doesn't do that anyways.
Yep that would be a good plan, so having one main leader and the lower one more of a branch and the lower branches rising to help form the canopy. depending on the roots you can play around with maybe getting more lean or movement into the tree. Looks like there might be a decent base under there, if its pretty even all around I would stick with the current angle, but if its more heavy on one side then you could try leaning away from the the heavy side.
 

David wv

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Yep that would be a good plan, so having one main leader and the lower one more of a branch and the lower branches rising to help form the canopy. depending on the roots you can play around with maybe getting more lean or movement into the tree. Looks like there might be a decent base under there, if its pretty even all around I would stick with the current angle, but if its more heavy on one side then you could try leaning away from the the heavy side.
Yeah, I think it has great surface roots, specially for a collected tree. But they are large roots, probably ¾" of an inch or around 19mm. I had to cut them back pretty hard, it didn't have many fine roots closer to the trunk. So I hope those surface roots sprout new roots. 🤞 Next repot, I will see if I lean it a little more. American beech is a finicky species compared to most deciduous trees or European beech from what I understand. Long stringy roots, slow growing, only one flush a year. I've been experimenting on other American beech I have, on how to get a reliable second flush but I haven't had any luck.
Anyways, thank you for your advice.
 

rockm

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Also, any thoughts on pruning back to dormant (not swollen) buds this time of year? Also if anyone has experience with American beech, how to handle them to get good internode length and ramification.
"how to handle them to get good internode length and ramification."

That's the challenge isn't it? Ramification is slow with the species. As you probably know, they only push new growth once a year. IF you're lucky you can get a second weak flush in mid-summer, but it's not reliable. You can increase backbudding by removing the terminal bud on every branch before they open in the spring. That might push more budding back on the branch, but it can be spotty. Backbudding can be stronger with hard pruning of branches into year-old or older wood.

Removing the terminal buds can also force shorter internode length, along with pinching new growth to one leaf as leaves emerge.

I had a collected American Beech for almost 20 years. I got it into decent shape, but it was a long haul. I got rid of it because it became a bit too labor intensive for me.

Some folks find them easier to work on and get better results. I don't know how to achieve the tight internode and ramification like the beech below at the National Arb.. but someone does.
 

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