American-made ceramics forms

Pitoon

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Wow got deep into statics in this channel LOL having taken plenty of physics classes there are a number of arguments for both especially when you get into direction and distribution of force, at the end of the day as long as the thickness of the base is sufficient to support the hole diameter, the shape shouldnt matter much or the number of holes. In actuality the cracking in my experience is a direct factor of working the clay too much. When I punch a hole I’m breaking bonds created when compressing the clay which leads to cracking when drying. When the clay crystallizes it won’t matter much because we are putting relatively little force on the base of the pot and it’s these cracks that do the damage not the size or volume of holes. That’s just my take anyway!
Very well put response.
 

penumbra

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I'm assuming greenware means they haven't made it through final firing ...and maybe they haven't made it through some of the other steps. I hope you'll post pictures after they've competed the whole process.
Greenware is dry but not fired.
Bisque is fired but not vitrified, pores are still open to accept glaze.
Cone fired, whether one uses cones or not, is the final firing at which pottery become stoneware, sometime referred to as glaze firing. Does not indicate whether pot is glazed or unglazed.
There can be more than one cone firing. Glazes can be applied and reapplied to correct flaws or to achieve desired effects. If repeated fired, say 3 times or more, the clay shrinkage can be disproportional and form cracks and/or warps.
 

ikiru_vessels

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I'm assuming greenware means they haven't made it through final firing ...and maybe they haven't made it through some of the other steps. I hope you'll post pictures after they've competed the whole process.
I sent thru the photo of them all making it thru bisque but the moment I bring them home from glaze firing I’ll be sure to share here :)
 

sorce

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So I only made any hex pots because of a screwed up cut for a rectangle.

Upon trying to screw that up in the same manner, I screwed up differently and made one like this.

Broke when I dropped it at the PO, so I had to remake it.

Now I kinda love this form!

What do you think?

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Sorce
 

Pitoon

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sorce

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screwed up and dropped it
....

The front wall. Of course that one didn't crack. The one I didn't drop cracked!

I like the swoop!

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Found a safer way to use "marbled" that wastes less. Thinner slab of "marbled" rolled over a thin slab of reggie.
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Mas cheat code texture!

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Sexy.
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Smashed a "rage quit" of that new form yesterday and turned it into new accent planters!
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Sorce
 

TinyArt

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I think that form wants to be turned over & have the walls & towers of a castle built on top — broken down & abandoned, with pot(s) built in for root-over-masonry bonsai —

Or have I seen too many medieval documentaries during lockdown?
 

ikiru_vessels

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This chop mark has to be American right? I did a bit of digging and couldn't find the potter; any hints?
 

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penumbra

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I believe so. It seems to be an L J. It doesn't look like any Japanese of Chinese characters I have seen.
 

penumbra

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Lotus International
Thank you. This was a Duh moment for me. I remember years ago buying from them and they did use this mark. Seems I am at a stage of forgetting a lot of things.
 

penumbra

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Thanks! This makes sense as the bottom of the pot is convex and would cause water to pool in the corners of the pot, pretty poor construction which I'd expect from a mass producer.
While this is something we strive not to create in pots, and it is much viewed as a negative thing, I seriously doubt there is actually a problem. I is always gone from the pot within minutes or hours at the longest. In fact, many moisture loving trees might benefit. I am not meaning to be derisive, but I think it is a concern that is not warranted. The water pool involved is minuscule.
 

bwaynef

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Thanks! This makes sense as the bottom of the pot is convex and would cause water to pool in the corners of the pot, pretty poor construction which I'd expect from a mass producer.
This is getting a little far from the intent of this thread (which is: I wish more folks would strive to create crisp forms in their finished pots rather than accept whatever the clay gods are willing to bestow ...with some discussion of craftsmanship to be had there somewhere), but I've heard of folks pouring epoxy into the low spots to flatten them out. For a Lotus Int'l pot, I'd just drill the low spots to keep water from pooling.
 

Pitoon

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This is getting a little far from the intent of this thread (which is: I wish more folks would strive to create crisp forms in their finished pots rather than accept whatever the clay gods are willing to bestow ...with some discussion of craftsmanship to be had there somewhere), but I've heard of folks pouring epoxy into the low spots to flatten them out. For a Lotus Int'l pot, I'd just drill the low spots to keep water from pooling.
I would think drilling a very small weep hole would fix that issue.....if it really is an issue?
 

Pitoon

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Thanks! This makes sense as the bottom of the pot is convex and would cause water to pool in the corners of the pot, pretty poor construction which I'd expect from a mass producer.
I would like to believe a mass produced pot could still be of good quality. It all depends how much time the producer is willing to put in to polish the pot after removing it from the mold.
 

sorce

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wish more folks would strive to create crisp forms in their finished pots

I been thinking about what @Bonsai Nut said about the Japanese "finishing man" who only tidies up pots and what American potters would think about that information....

First....
I think this person may only exist in a mass production line up...which means there are pots started and finished by one dude.

Second....
What do we think American potters would do with that information?

Unfortunately, I think we would consider it "too hard" then, or "too much trouble", rather than think we can or should also do it for ourselves.

Sorce
 
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