Amur Maple - Aphips, Spider Mites, etc.

[JohnFranklin - Zone 7b]

So here in Maryland it has been warm, relatively speaking (upper 40's and 50'ish) and my two potted Amur Maples (2 plus years old) on the back deck have begun to bud. I had trouble with aphids and spider mites last summer (used "Natures Best" insecticidal soap and picked bugs off - didn't seem to help much ) and I think they may have wintered in the pot's soil (or they laid eggs and they are hatching) as it appears that the spiders may be at work again as I found some webbing on the trees. So I purchased some "Bon-Neem" fungicide-Miticide-Insecticide "ready to use" spray. So I have couple of questions, has anyone used this product and had success and can it be sprayed on the trees this early in the season? Thanks, any response\information will be appreciated.

 

[M. Frary]

I would wait until the leaves are hardened off this spring and hit them with Bayer 3 in 1 systemic.
Insecticide soap always sounds like people are giving bugs a bath.

 

[cbroad]

Same thing going on here, my amurs are waking up and I noticed some webs on mine too. My webbing was from actual spiders though, are you sure yours aren't from spiderlings and not mites?

I would think it's too early for the mites to wake up but I guess it's possible. If they are mites though, this might be good because hopefully the cold weather will kill off this generation. We're relatively close and I know central va is going to get near freezing tonight and the next couple days so this actually might be beneficial. Good luck!

 

[cbroad]

crappy pic but here's mine, the spider can be seen in the upper left.

 

[hendrik]

Hi,
The webbing is from an actual spider by the looks. Nothing to do with spider mite. I would wait to see what happens.
I have never heard of issues with spider mite in maples. I have some tropicalAcer species which overwinter in the greenhouse and even they don't get infected.

 

[cbroad]

@hendrik
I think you're confusing my post from the OP's

 

[ysrgrathe]

In response to the idea of waiting for leaves to harden off, I am usually more concerned with controlling aphids as the leaves open. If heavily infested they can cause real problems as the immature growth is very vulnerable.

 

[LanceMac10]

Rare is the time any of my Maples don't have aphids in spring. They love the sweet new shoots!! Most of the time I'll squish 'em manually and then come thru with a lil' sprish-sprish of chemical warfare. Best to catch it early, a systemic would take too long. Never had any problems with the tender foliage, even squishing with fingers. Inspect your trees daily in spring, bugs seem somewhat more prevalent then.

 

[JohnFranklin - Zone 7b]

Thanks for the responses. I can't be 100% sure the bit of webbing I saw wasn't "Spider-Man's" brother but I am assuming the worst. Has anyone used the product, "Bon-Neem" fungicide-Miticide-Insecticide "ready to use" spray and if so, can it be used on trees in which the leaves are just beginning to open or on the other hand is it safer to simply watch carefully\regularly and once fully opened (leaves) if the pest issue does indeed exist then go after them?

 

[cbroad]

Just looked it up, I found the label available online: read under where it says "general use restrictions"

 

[JohnFranklin - Zone 7b]

Thanks....I read the label and some missed that...

 

[augustine]

I've used a neem oil spray quite a bit, works well. As advised wait til leaves harden.

I would test a couple of leaves before I sprayed the entire trees. And it is essential that you place in full shade after applying an oil spray.

As of Jan 1 imadicloprid has been banned in MD so I think we're out of luck with the Bayer product.

 

[JohnFranklin - Zone 7b]

It appears that Spring has sprung here in Maryland. The two maples discussed in this thread seem to be growing well and each tree's buds look strong. But I am curious, today i found what appear to be super small grains of white rice, 16th of inch or smaller in length and maybe a mm in width stuck on the lower portions of the the trunk of each tree. I used painters tape and removed all of them and they did remove very easily, probably 6 or 8 per tree. Is anyone familiar with what I've described? Or perhaps my OCD is working overtime. Any responses would be appreciated, Thanks.