Anchoring - inspired by V-notch thread

[Poink88]

Inspired by Sawgrass' (Stacey) thread...
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?15850-quot-V-quot-Notching-Made-Easy

I am starting an "anchoring" thread. Many times I encountered problems with anchoring in my bending and would like to share some insights so some may avoid committing same mistakes I did.

There are many anchor points we can use...
The best to use is anchoring on the tree if possible for many reasons. First you do not risk disturbing the roots by too much movement, no need to remove if you repot, etc. However it is sometimes not possible so other options have to be considered.

2nd best is the pot. My favorite is through the drain holes. On trainer plastic pots, I love poking holes at the side and using those as anchor points.

Then there are introduced anchor points like; rods/rebar, frames, cages, scaffolds, etc. In extreme cases (and I hope you won't go this far), other trees may be used, even the ground, your fence, house, etc.

Using parts of the tree presents its own set of problems...most important of all is protecting it from damage. Here comes various cushioning/protection like raffia wrap, air tubing, leather, old hose, etc. They all work but only to some degree. Even protected bark will be ripped or crushed given enough pressure/stress. (believe me on this)

In major bends, nothing beat screws. It damages the tree but only minimally and done right, contained in a very small area that should heal fast once removed.

I do not have pictures yet but this should be a good start for discussion and should evolve based on what people need me/us (everyone welcome to jump in) to expound on.

 

[M. Frary]

Seen the screws in a few pictures of Walter Pall trees with guy wires. I actually tie a wire around the pot or use holes in the pot itself. One thing I use to pull branches down is fishing line. That way I use different test breaking strengths for varying size limbs and on big limbs it will break before the limb. It also is kind of hard to see so it doesn't look too bad.

 

[Poink88]

Seen the screws in a few pictures of Walter Pall trees with guy wires. I actually tie a wire around the pot or use holes in the pot itself. One thing I use to pull branches down is fishing line. That way I use different test breaking strengths for varying size limbs and on big limbs it will break before the limb. It also is kind of hard to see so it doesn't look too bad.

Being less visible is good but they are harder to tie w/o creep than wires. Once you bent the wire and made one loop it is very secure...not the same with fishing line. BUT use whatever you have that works.

 

[A Random User]

Not sure what "expound" is in your final sentence...
But thanks for the post. I think sometimes it is forgotten
and often just assumed, that everyone knows these things !!!

 

[Poink88]

Not sure what "expound" is in your final sentence...
But thanks for the post. I think sometimes it is forgotten
and often just assumed, that everyone knows these things !!!

Not sure either. As you said, we assume everyone knows some things and usually, it is not the case.

 

[M. Frary]

Actually I'm very cheap. My other passion is tournament bass fishing. I have lots of line that gets taken off every tournament so I save some for this purpose. Also the line I use is spider wire and there's no stretch in that stuff at all.
10 pound test is tying knots with hair.

 

[Poink88]

Actually I'm very cheap. My other passion is tournament bass fishing. I have lots of line that gets taken off every tournament so I save some for this purpose. Also the line I use is spider wire and there's no stretch in that stuff at all.
10 pound test is tying knots with hair.

I am cheap too, that is why I use tie wires LOL

The creep I am talking about is while tying (not the wire stretching). I probably am just a klutz but I cannot tie them as taut as I want while with wires it is a breeze. Compound that with the stress while pulling another branch and the result (for me) is usually not my ideal. If I have a 3rd hand I might make it work.

If you make it work, great!

 

[coh]

I could see something as thin as fishing line potentially causing a problem, as the force from the line is concentrated over a very small area (compared to thicker wire)...more likely to damage or cut into a branch I would think. Never tried it, though.

 

[Poink88]

I could see something as thin as fishing line potentially causing a problem, as the force from the line is concentrated over a very small area (compared to thicker wire)...more likely to damage or cut into a branch I would think. Never tried it, though.

The "cushion" (i.e. hose, leather, etc.) should prevent that problem.

 

[coh]

The "cushion" (i.e. hose, leather, etc.) should prevent that problem.

Agree that it "should", but different people use different things for cushioning, and I've seen cushion materials slip, fail, etc. Just something to be aware of.

 

[Poink88]

Agree that it "should", but different people use different things for cushioning, and I've seen cushion materials slip, fail, etc. Just something to be aware of.

True...and the more reason why I like using screws as anchoring point.

 

[Dav4]

I've attached wires of various types to everything from wood braces attached to the pot, existing deadwood, to screws placed into the deadwood...

....these pictures are all from the same tree, too

 

[Poink88]

I've attached wires of various types to everything from wood braces attached to the pot, existing deadwood, to screws placed into the deadwood...

....these pictures are all from the same tree, too

Thanks for the nice visuals...drool worthy tree too!

 

[Poink88]

BTW, your pic reminded me of an olive I flat chopped (sawed) the bottom off, then potted in a bonsai pot. (I know I shouldn't have but I did) Can't anchor it w/o the wires showing so I attached 2 screws to wire it to the pot. (thankfully it survived and growing now)

 

[M. Frary]

I use the plastic window screen spline as a cushion. Just cut
to length and thread fishing line through it. I wowouldn't dare use this stuff without something on it. It cuts through weeds and lily pads when fighting fish so the damage it could do to wood would be substantial.

 

[october]

The most gentle and probably most taught technique is the twist/tourniquet. First, you can place a bit of rubber tape or raffia on the area where the wire will be pulling down on the branch. Next, loop a wire over the top of the branch and the anchoring point. You can loop in around the pot or as Dario said, poke holes in the side of the container if it is plastic. You can also loop it around a lower jin or even the wire poking above the soil that secures the tree to the pot. Now, the wire is looped around. In other words, it is one wire, but it is looped in an elongated circle. Next, in the area between the branch to be pulled down and the anchoring point. Insert either a short, thick piece of wire or a small wooden stick. For example, maybe 1 1/2 inch piece of a chop stick. Now turn the stick. Turning the stick will tighten the wire. This method has a great advantage over other methods. Since you are manually turning to tighten, you can go very slowly. Much less chance for breaks. Also, if it is a big bend, you can tighten a little, then maybe in a month, tighten even more.

Some tips.. Start out with the loop somewhat tight or the branch slightly pulled down. This way, you won't have to turn the wire that much. Turning the wire too much will cause it to break and you'll need to start over. Lastly, if you can only tighten so much with this wire. Wait about a month or 2, then attach a new wire using the same process. Then cut off your old wire and twist the new wire as desired. My virt shows the anchoring point on the branch a bit close to the trunk. You probably will have to make the anchoring point a little further out along the branch. Here is the process.

Rob