JoeH
Omono
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- USDA Zone
- 9B
nope.You didn't seal the chop, did you?
nope.You didn't seal the chop, did you?
Yeah, noticed the cracks there. That dries out the sapwood. It's always best to seal those chops and bigger cuts.nope.
I left one sucker for now. Another small one popped up close to the trunk that I could thread graft it if needed. And yeah, still green under the bark, I usually don't seal cuts, its the horticulture in me that says no one does that to trees in nature.The trunk looks like it is callusing, which means it is still alive. Scratch the callus tissue to see if it's green underneath the bark. If it is, I'd remove ALL of those sucker and force the trunk to push new buds. The suckers are stealing the energy from the main trunk. It's easier for the tree to push new suckers from the roots. Many fast-growing species like Chinese Elm do that. Controlling the new growth can be a key in getting a good start on things...
I never seal big chips on elms I collect. They like to bid from the callous at the cut end, and sealing it will just make it harder on the tree to throw branches.I left one sucker for now. Another small one popped up close to the trunk that I could thread graft it if needed. And yeah, still green under the bark, I usually don't seal cuts, its the horticulture in me that says no one does that to trees in nature.
I was expecting to have to carve this down after it budded out for taper so I didn't even think about it.I never seal big chips on elms I collect. They like to bid from the callous at the cut end, and sealing it will just make it harder on the tree to throw branches.
Aaron
Unfortunately, sealing big cuts on material that is being collected is A MUST. It is not the same as leaving a tree in the ground and letting it heal. In collecting trees, you compromise not only the top growth, exposing it to increased susceptibility to drying out, you also remove the system that supports the tree getting moisture--its roots. The combined removal makes collecting and moving water extremely difficult for a while. That means the collected tree will look for the easiest and quickest way to get and retain water, which is what's happening here.I left one sucker for now. Another small one popped up close to the trunk that I could thread graft it if needed. And yeah, still green under the bark, I usually don't seal cuts, its the horticulture in me that says no one does that to trees in nature.
Don't think that is true. I've had cedar elms die back significantly from big chops left unsealed. I've found over the years that sealing trunk chops is one of those "secrets" that gives collected trees a better chance at surviving in one piece. I have had elms sprout from near chops-but not FROM callus tissue, as callus tissue contains no "bud information" or resting buds that are activated. That is why you have to graft new shoots onto calluses...I never seal big chips on elms I collect. They like to bid from the callous at the cut end, and sealing it will just make it harder on the tree to throw branches.
Aaron
Well I'll have to take some pictures later for you, mine seem to come straight from the cut end. If I remember correctly uncle fester up in Michigan has the same thing happen with his elms.Don't think that is true. I've had cedar elms die back significantly from big chops left unsealed. I've found over the years that sealing trunk chops is one of those "secrets" that gives collected trees a better chance at surviving in one piece. I have had elms sprout from near chops-but not FROM callus tissue, as callus tissue contains no "bud information" or resting buds that are activated. That is why you have to graft new shoots onto calluses...
Here's just a couple examples of my collected elms where they did in fact bud out from the th chop. Sorry about my broken camera on my phone lolDon't think that is true. I've had cedar elms die back significantly from big chops left unsealed. I've found over the years that sealing trunk chops is one of those "secrets" that gives collected trees a better chance at surviving in one piece. I have had elms sprout from near chops-but not FROM callus tissue, as callus tissue contains no "bud information" or resting buds that are activated. That is why you have to graft new shoots onto calluses...
the rest are all suckers that I left thinking I'd have to work with that, now I am probably going to do just that.Congratulations.
If I were you, I would cut everything but the very top shoot.
cheers
yahh its doing just fine, wow didn't notice I haven't updated this in two years. Will do pics this weekend.Just wondering how your tree has progressed? It looked quite promising in your last post.