Arakawa Maple

[AndyJ]

Hey folks

My Arakawa has started to wake up and there are buds bursting all over the tree and with today's sun, really feels like spring is well on its way! Even though it's a few weeks early this year - hope we don't get any cold snaps that set everything back.

Anyway, back to the Arakawa. With the spring bud push, I can see a few places where I'm going to have some problems;

Leggy branches with all the growth at the end of the branch;

Blind branches with no shoots visible (I'm guessing their dead);

Multiple shoots emerging at a single node;

1. My main question is about how well Arakawa back-bud?
2. Will they just throw new shoots from green, non-corked branches?
3. Or will they backbud on corked branches?
4. A couple of my leggy branches which are shooting on the branch tips, have long lenths of green. If I cut the shoots off on the end of these branches, will it shoot out from nodes on the green? Is there a way to force this?

Thanks all.

Andy

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

They tend to bud at the nodes, not on the internodes (the green part between the pairs of leaves). Arakawa will back-bud, and even on the corky bark, but not reliably.

I have found thread-grafting to be very useful in placing branches where I need them, and keeping the tree compact.

These two branches circled in red were thread-grafted for sure, and another one on that left trunk may be too, can’t remember. I have also wired another branch in preparation for another thread graft next year, underlined in blue. My plan is to have it emerge above where It originates, and become a main branch going to the right.

 

[AndyJ]

Thanks Brian. I'll prep it this year for some thread grafts next.

What would your view be on my item no. 4 above? Wondering if I should cut it back now before the buds burst to force backbudding into the previous nodes?

 

[0soyoung]

A couple of my leggy branches which are shooting on the branch tips, have long lenths of green. If I cut the shoots off on the end of these branches, will it shoot out from nodes on the green? Is there a way to force this?

The buds at the most distal (closest to where you prune) will, indeed. Farther back, maybe, but certainly less likely.

 

[Canada Bonsai]

Wondering if I should cut it back now before the buds burst to force backbudding into the previous nodes?

With my Arakawas, I have had more success with back-budding by letting the first flush emerge, and then pruning back after the first flush hardens (around end of May, for me). This, coincidentally, is just about the perfect time to take cuttings! Waiting for this time also allows you to gauge the vigor of shoots and branches before you choose what to prune

If there is a risk that your precocious Arakawa might be exposed to a late frost, as you mention, this is still another good reason to wait

 

[AndyJ]

Hey folks!

I'm back again with another question about my Arakawa. I've got a few backbuds that have appeared on branches in places I wasn't expecting. Good news! What is the best time to remove the part of the branch I don't want?

For clarity's sake. There are quite a few dead straight branches that grew out on the tree before I got it. Last year, I pinched the shoots at the end of these leggy branches hoping I'd get back budding - but I didn't get any. This year, there are back buds and I didn't have to pinch! I'm hoping that I can chase the foliage back to the trunk and get new shoots growing that have some movement in them.

Here's a picture of the tree and a couple of examples circled in red and green.

Hope that this makes sense!

Thanks alll.

Andy

 

[0soyoung]

IMHO, one can cut back to a visible bud anytime.

I have noted that cutting back further will sometimes result in a dead branch. I have also noted that cutting close to a bud in fall will sometimes result in die back to yet a lower node. During the season, it is best to let new shoots extend and be hardened for a while before cutting back - usually around May and August with a. palmatums.

Of course, it helps to be able to see what you are pruning. So times when the tree is leafless or nearly so are helpful.

However, I have not concerned myself with the 'best time' as 'best' is just too vague - best in what way?

 

[AndyJ]

Thanks Oso. What I mean is, when can I cut back without risking dieback of the bud? How close to the bud should I cut? What is the risk of the whole branch dying back past the bud. I’m guessing you have answered this above as in May and August.

 

[0soyoung]

Leave a little bit of a stub when you [rune. Then the xylem doesn't get cracked at the node and make it die. The stub will, of course, die back to the node in time. When it has turned white, it usually is quite easily broken off or easily trimmed.

 

[Canada Bonsai]

I pinched the shoots at the end of these leggy branches hoping I'd get back budding - but I didn't get any

in general, you have a better chance to get back-buds from healthy, vigorous maples, and especially in areas with a lot of traffic of resources

pinching is meant to reduce vigor, and will reduce the flow of nutrients

If you haven’t watched Mirai’s Spring Fundamentals (free, on youtube) yet, i couldn’t possibly recommend it more strongly

 

[AndyJ]

Thanks Oso! I’ll check out the video, Canada.

 

[AndyJ]

Hey folks.

I’ve been having a look at this Arakawa again this morning and have decided upon a change to my original plan. There are a couple of branches on this that make up the apex and I’ve decided to try and air-layer one of them out and, inspired by his Acer Palmatum #5, following @MACH5 idea of grafting it to the bottom of the the existing trunk.

Its quite tight at the top of the tree and I’m concerned that when it’s in full leaf, it’s going to be hard for me to get in and cut the bark to set the layer. So, can I do it now? Is there any issue with setting an air layer when the tree hasn‘t leaved out yet? @0soyoung I’d like to hear your thoughts.

Thanks all.

Andy

 

[0soyoung]

@AndyJ,
Very often I cut girdles for air layers about this time of year (as buds swell), just because it is so much easier to get it done. The only drawback is that the bark is not quite as easy to 'peal off' than it is after the first flush has hardened.

My habit, over the last several years, is to make the girdle, then leave it exposed to the air, and come back a day or two later to 'bundle it up'. It is equally or more effective and much less emotionally taxing than all the scraping and/or alcohol wiping that one needs to do to kill residual xylem initials when doing it all at once.