yes, I agree. I already bent the branch to the grafting position for next spring.Max, I like your idea with the graft. I just put on 6 grafts onto my pine. This tree is early in its development. No reason not to graft. Best time would be early next spring.
Sheds water.Autumn is a good time for chops.
Best practice is leave a stub of an inch or two, then use knob cutters to carve it to a point, or a peg. For whatever reason, that helps the wound heal faster.
This looks like a really fine tree. Is it possible that it could be photographed against a neutral back ground where the profile is not cluttered up with similar looking foliage mucking up the back ground, and confusing the image. I always hold with the philosophy that the intention to photograph a tree should be carried out in such a way that the tree is displayed properly. This is not after all a nudie site where it is what you don't see that makes the difference.View attachment 174146
Thinking about tilting it to this position. The greft i had thought about failed and i left an ugly scar.
This raised up position and like my next move.
Yeah, for sure.This looks like a really fine tree. Is it possible that it could be photographed against a neutral back ground where the profile is not cluttered up with similar looking foliage mucking up the back ground, and confusing the image. I always hold with the philosophy that the intention to photograph a tree should be carried out in such a way that the tree is displayed properly. This is not after all a nudie site where it is what you don't see that makes the difference.
What species of Pine are we talking about? If the tree was mine I would understand that it is necessary to open up the image to see the branching. Branching drives design. I would start with removing all of the downward growing needles to allow light into the design.Any other comments?
I would to hear a couple of ideas