Are these any good?

Adair M

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Max, I like your idea with the graft. I just put on 6 grafts onto my pine. This tree is early in its development. No reason not to graft. Best time would be early next spring.
 

barrosinc

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Max, I like your idea with the graft. I just put on 6 grafts onto my pine. This tree is early in its development. No reason not to graft. Best time would be early next spring.
yes, I agree. I already bent the branch to the grafting position for next spring.
So chop... Now in autumn?
 

Adair M

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Autumn is a good time for chops.

Best practice is leave a stub of an inch or two, then use knob cutters to carve it to a point, or a peg. For whatever reason, that helps the wound heal faster.
 

barrosinc

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Mine is doing ok, the graft doesn't seem to be doing well... the needles are very much yellow, but I guess most of that is because the branch ripped a bit.
And I don't even think I put it on the live vein o_O

I think I will do scion grafts next year, the rest of the tree is developing great, I repotted it at an angle into pure inorganic.

I need to watch an experience grafter do his thing not through a video.
 

ConorDash

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Post a few pics if you can, add to the progression of the thread over time :)
I just read through it all.
 

Vance Wood

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View attachment 174146

Thinking about tilting it to this position. The greft i had thought about failed and i left an ugly scar.

This raised up position and like my next move.
This looks like a really fine tree. Is it possible that it could be photographed against a neutral back ground where the profile is not cluttered up with similar looking foliage mucking up the back ground, and confusing the image. I always hold with the philosophy that the intention to photograph a tree should be carried out in such a way that the tree is displayed properly. This is not after all a nudie site where it is what you don't see that makes the difference.
 

barrosinc

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This looks like a really fine tree. Is it possible that it could be photographed against a neutral back ground where the profile is not cluttered up with similar looking foliage mucking up the back ground, and confusing the image. I always hold with the philosophy that the intention to photograph a tree should be carried out in such a way that the tree is displayed properly. This is not after all a nudie site where it is what you don't see that makes the difference.
Yeah, for sure.
As it isn't more than a prebonsai I didn't really take my time for it. But you can't really see the tree to give any advice.
 

jriddell88

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Looks like it just needs to grow for now , maybe open it up to sunlight and air a bit ,but I can see it just fine
 

barrosinc

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It sure is healthy.
I haven't decandled and candles are sized nicely.

All my growth is close to the top, reason why I might use some sort of design similar to @Dav4 use of drop down branches.
 

jriddell88

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There’s something to work with here, that second pic might make a nice image wired out and brought down , bark looks nice
 

Vance Wood

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Any other comments?
I would to hear a couple of ideas
What species of Pine are we talking about? If the tree was mine I would understand that it is necessary to open up the image to see the branching. Branching drives design. I would start with removing all of the downward growing needles to allow light into the design.
 

barrosinc

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It's a Japanese red pine.
I will see if I can get better pics of branches
 
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I think your photos show a good trunk but miss all the needles. a few months is very early to tell if the pines will live through the dig and potting but you should now notice poor colour and needles drooping if the trees are in trouble. soil does look wrong for pines. It certainly is a gamble to purchase so soon after digging them out of the ground, but to a great extent that depends how well they were grown and how long they have been in the ground un root pruned. Good luck you could have a great tree in a few years
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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JRP, I would let it grow a season or two. You have a bunch of young branches, hard to tell if any have any secondary branches. I think at this point you need growth and more branching so that 2 or 3 years from now you will actually have good choices available to style the tree. You don't really have much there right now.

In autumn, after the equinox, select branches reducing to no more than 3 at a node.

Later spring, or about a week before the summer solstice, I would decandled this tree to encourage branching and back budding. The the following autumn you again reduce branches to 2 or 3 at a node. Then decide if you have enough to consider styling, or repeat the cycle.

You have a nice trunk started, excellent start. I'd be happy if this was on my bench, waiting for me to plan it's future.
 
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