Assless hornbeam

Rid

Shohin
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My hornbeam looks ok from the main angle, but the root flare is 2 dimensional.

I think if I pot it a little deeper and encourage some of those little roots growing off of the main side roots, I may be able to achieve better flare without grafting any roots.

Any advice
 

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Bonsai Nut

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What does the rest of the tree look like? I think you also have a challenging trunk line. The bottom is interesting, but then it does an awkward bend and turns into a telephone pole. I would consider reducing the tree dramatically.

It will be extremely difficult to fix that nebari without grafting roots. Even with grafting roots, it will be a multi-year project. I would get your materials ready, pull the tree from the pot, graft the roots, and plant the whole thing up in a grow box or Anderson flat and let it grow like mad.
 

Rid

Shohin
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What does the rest of the tree look like? I think you also have a challenging trunk line. The bottom is interesting, but then it does an awkward bend and turns into a telephone pole. I would consider reducing the tree dramatically.

It will be extremely difficult to fix that nebari without grafting roots. Even with grafting roots, it will be a multi-year project. I would get your materials ready, pull the tree from the pot, graft the roots, and plant the whole thing up in a grow box or Anderson flat and let it grow like mad.
Thanks. I was either going to chop off the straight part completely next year or try to use the branch off to the left as the new leader
 

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
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I think you should build the rest of the tree from the 1st branch on the left.

Yes plant it deeper, it will take time, years, but it can make roots where you need them. Trick is to get it growing vigorously. Before chopping to the first left branch, get it into a grow box or Anderson flat for at least a year or two, then chop. You should get better back budding that way.
 

Rid

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I think you should build the rest of the tree from the 1st branch on the left.

Yes plant it deeper, it will take time, years, but it can make roots where you need them. Trick is to get it growing vigorously. Before chopping to the first left branch, get it into a grow box or Anderson flat for at least a year or two, then chop. You should get better back budding that way.
Is a big colander a substitute for Anderson flat or grow box?
 

sorce

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Is a big colander a substitute for Anderson flat or grow box?

For your success in a project of that size....

"Colander" is a little shaky...and... well...
Bakey.... in the sun...

Especially with root grafts in place.

What do you have in mind?

Sorce
 

Rid

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For your success in a project of that size....

"Colander" is a little shaky...and... well...
Bakey.... in the sun...

Especially with root grafts in place.

What do you have in mind?

Sorce
One of those colanders from the Korean grocery. They do get brittle after a year or so
 

Zach Smith

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Yes, Hornbeam roots very vigorously so you can easily make them where you need them. Not complicated at all, and this is a perfect time to do it.
 

Rid

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Yes, Hornbeam roots very vigorously so you can easily make them where you need them. Not complicated at all, and this is a perfect time to do it.
Would it be risky to do this in 2-3 different areas?
 

Zach Smith

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I don't see why it would. If you have existing roots then the tree should survive even if the layers fail. If you're concerned, you don't have to do them all at once.
 
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Rid

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Well, this was an easy task, but I managed to botch it. Will try again next year with more moss and a better wrap job. Thanks for the tips everybody.
 

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just.wing.it

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I had myself an assless hornbeam before...
It died last spring... probably too wet, I think...yours still is better than mine was, hope you succeed in your quest for nebari!
 

Rid

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This tree continues to struggle it seems. It loses leave, grows leaves, then browns again. I don’t know when it was last reported, and I’m wondering if it should be slipped into a larger pot with new soil, but no root disturbance. I believe it is in good soil as I got it from a bonsai nursery, but I have no idea how long it’s been in the pot
 

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Rid

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Is it in full sun all day?
Yes. It’s adjacnt to boxwoods, and they boxwood have never had any brown on them. I thought hornbeam and boxwood had somewhat similar light requirements.
 

WNC Bonsai

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Go to the Missouri Botanical Garden website and check the growing conditions for hornbeam—partial to full shade. These generally are understory trees that like moist soil, usually near streams. I think yours is getting scorched by the intense Georgia sun. I keep mine in partial shade and it has done great this year, going from a chopped, collected stump to a healthy, bushy little tree.
 
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Leo in N E Illinois

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I agree with @Cofga - hornbeam are understory and forest edge trees, they need shade in the hottest part of the day.

Important - slip-potting is a horrible thing to do to your tree. There is no such thing as a ''gentle slip potting''. No matter how gentle you try to be, 90% of the time the root ball falls apart enough that a lot of fine feeder roots are broken, even if you don't notice the fine feeser roots and root hairs getting broken. This loss of root hairs and broken feeder roots is as traumatic to the tree as a full blown repotting.

Second issue with slip potting. If the mix filled in around the old root ball is different in particle size or composition you will have trouble controlling moisture. Either the root ball will stay too wet, or the outer fresh material will stay too wet and the old root ball may dry out. It can be a nightmare trying to keep the two zones of media in the pot at the right moisture level for good growth. Many a tree has been killed by slip potting.

Third, if you slip pot, the tree will need to recover before you can do a ''regular repot'', this means you are suck with the 2 component mixture in the pot with the difficulties of watering it properly for at least another 12 month. If you repot a tree twice in less than 12 months you will severely drain away its vigor, its resources and risk loosing the tree. Any root disturbance is traumatic to the tree, there is no such thing as a ''gentle repot''.

If you think the problem can be cured by repotting, then do a full repot. Make it count, get rid of the offending old potting mix. Prune roots, shape the nebari, if you are going to traumatize a tree, at least make it count and do proper root work. For this reason it is best to wait for the ideal season for repotting. But there are fair success levels at repotting in the secondary late summer & autumn seasons. So if you feel it is an emergency, then do the repotting, but don't fool around trying to ''slip pot'' that will do more harm than good.

After care is critical when repotting in less than ideal timing. I would wait on the repotting if possible.
 

Rid

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Thanks for the fantastic explanation Leo! Tree is in the shade and will chill there until spring.

Ridley
 
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