Attempting to germinate Adansonia Suarezensis (Baobab species)

[anon user]

About a year and a half ago I started on a quest to grow all 8 Baobab species. So far I've successfully started 7 of the 8 species from seed.

I'm not yet sure who survived the winter, but I have a fair amount of seed left and one more species to go! So, earlier this week I started another round.

My process for germination of Adansonia is:

1) Soak them overnight in hot (not scalding) water. This softens the shell of most species just a little.
2) Then I take a file and file a spot until I can see a speck of the inner seed...not deep enough to damage it, but deep enough that water can get in.
3) Then they soak in more hot water for 24 hours. This is usually enough for the seeds to swell to 2-3 times their original size and for the outer shell to soften enough it can be peeled off.
4) I carefully peel off the hard outer shell.
5) The de-shelled seed is placed inside a damp paper towel for another 24 hours.
6) By this time most seeds will have started elongating their roots. The cotyledons will also be less tightly packed. If I see obvious root elongation, I move them. Otherwise they stay for another 12 hours.
7) Once I see obvious root growth, I move them into 1 liter soda bottles with the top cut off and holes in the bottom for drainage. I use coconut coif seedling mix. I _just_ bury the seeds on their "stomach" with the root tip pointing down.
8) I try to keep the surface of the coif humid without drying out. Usually the seed will sprout in another day or three...if it's been much longer than that and the seedling hasn't stood up, it's likely rotted.
9) Once the cotyledons open, the plant "pauses" to grow a tap root...but after a week or so, the first real leaves should be sprouting. Once the plant makes it this far, things get significantly easier

Anyway, today I'm at step 7 for everyone BUT Suarezensis...the one species I have yet to germinate AND the one I can no longer source seed for AND the one I am running out of

This time, however, it's doing something I have never seen on any other seed. When I went to open up the paper towel, I had to peel it off the seed as it was stuck on a little. The seed itself has what looks like a gel all over it...hopefully that shows up well enough in the picture.



It doesn't wipe off. I've never seen it before on multiple attempts with this or other species. Does anyone have any ideas what it might be?

More importantly...to me anyway ...does the collective knowledge base here have any suggestions on how to get these guys to germinate? I know it's not a typical species for this crowd, but there is a lot of collective horticultural knowledge here! Hopefully someone has some ideas to help me with this stubborn species!

Sadly I'm down to my last few seeds! I'm getting to the point where I'm afraid to try again because once I'm out of seed I'm not sure if I can ever get more. This species is endangered. I do know of a vendor where I can get cuttings, but that's another story for another day! I'd rather grow them all from seed if I can. I certainly don't see the point of continuing to try the same process over and over. The process I have works with high germination rates (>80% for me so far) across the rest of the species so I would have expected it to work on these guys already if it was going to.

I'm running out of ideas to try...help!

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

The gel could be sugars that the seed is converting from stored starches. This is an enzymatic process, so it doesn't mean that it's alive. But it happens in every seedling when it comes out of dormancy.
The sugars leaking out could mean nothing, it could be a sign that it's alive, it could be a sign that it's dead. Not very helpfull, I know.

I never had baobabs but I've heard that some people use gibberillic acids to help them activate. Most palm breeders/nurseries/growers should sell the stuff. Do not over use it!(!!!!!) It can dwarf a plant and/or inhibit all activity.

That's all I can do for you now.

 

[anon user]

I never had baobabs but I've heard that some people use gibberillic acids to help them activate. Most palm breeders/nurseries/growers should sell the stuff. Do not over use it!(!!!!!) It can dwarf a plant and/or inhibit all activity.

I did a little research on gibberillic acids...specifically GA3. Seems worth trying! Thanks for pointing me that way

I did consider touching trying a little IBA. I have some gel available that I thought to either dissolve in the water I soak the seeds in or to touch the root spur with a tiny amount then dunk in water. I really don't expect IBA to break dormancy though so haven't tried it yet.

The closest I have gotten (maybe, who knows) is that after the first few rotted I tried adding some peroxide to the soak. That seemed to delay rot from setting in and that attempt went several days before the seed did eventually rot. The cotyledons almost fully unfurled and were the size of quarters before the root tip rotted off I don't know that I would call anything that happened there "germination". It seemed more just a natural expansion of dehydrated tissue due to re-absorption. There was no greening, no extension, nothing that looked "alive".

It just seems these guys are stuck in dormancy but I don't know what the trigger is. I've tried researching the species and it's natural habitat, etc...but being from Madagascar and not in common cultivation anywhere, there's not a lot of information out there. Some of the other species are much more common and are cultivated so they are easier to find information on.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I found some articles on google scholar, I think it's worth checking out www.scholar.google.com with the search terms 'baobab adansonia germination'.
There seem to be quite some studies comparing germination protocols.

 

[anon user]

I found some articles on google scholar, I think it's worth checking out www.scholar.google.com with the search terms 'baobab adansonia germination'.
There seem to be quite some studies comparing germination protocols.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Yeah, I've done some lit searches. Much of the literature is on the Digitata species because it is looked to as possible commercial crop. There are lots of uses for Baobabs! Sometimes there are other species in related studies but rarely anything specific to Suarezensis. Much of it is things like pre-soak in various concentrations of sulfuric acids, types of soils to use for faster sprouting, etc...Much of it is around breaking down the hard coating since my "peel by hand method" is not effective at scale

I haven't found anything that talks about another form of dormancy beyond breaking down the hard outer coating. On 7 of the 8 species, my experience is that's really all it takes. Break the seed out of the coating and give it water and it will start up. Temps seem to matter more in the race between rotting and sprouting. Too cool/hot, rot wins.

On several of the species, it's interesting that if I just thin the coating and soak, the _coating_ doubles in size and leaves a cavity filled with water around the embryo. I don't know if this is intentional or just a consequence of my technique but since baobabs tend to grow where it's arid much of the year I wondered if it's intentional. Seed sits in dry ground for several months and the hard shell wears thin or cracks. Big rain comes and the shell swells quickly creating a cavity to store some reserve of water so the embryo has a supply to get it through germination. Just guessing, but Suarezensis doesn't appear to act that way...it's shell is a little more rubbery and adheres more tightly to the embryo.

Suarezensis is distinctly different from the others, though, in that its seed is more than twice the size of the other species.

I did order some GA3. I also have a limited supply of adenium globosa that I haven't been able to germinate yet either...that seed is also rare and I suspect what I have may be a little old and could use a kick-start as well

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

One possibility is that your seed is old. The shelf life of seed is not infinite. 5 or 10 year old seed may have lost its viability, especially if it was not stored cool and dry. The expiration date may have been passed at your vendor's warehouse, it was probably too old when you purchased it.

For example, Pinus parviflora, fresh seed will germinate above 90%. Seed that has been stored at 70 F for 18 months will germinate less than 50%. Seed stored cool and dry, 40 F, will still germinate at around 70 % at 18 months. At 3 years even seed stored cool and dry germination will drop below 50%. By 5 years, germination will be close to 0%.

WIth Japanese black pine, seed stored cool and dry will still be well above 50% germination at 10 years.

The length of time seed can be stored is species specific. I have no clue how long Baobab seeds can be stored, or if there are differences between different species in seed shelf life.

 

[Benauber]

@anon user I have some seeds sprouting.
Can you provide an update on the trees that did make it?

 

[JoeR]

@anon user dont know if you're still around, but what was your experience with Adansonia za? As far as germination rate, etc. Added some to my cart on a whim, instructions say it can take 3 weeks to 6 months to germinate!

 

[Bonsai Nut]

@anon user dont know if you're still around, but what was your experience with Adansonia za? As far as germination rate, etc. Added some to my cart on a whim, instructions say it can take 3 weeks to 6 months to germinate!

Anon user is someone who asked that their account be deleted. I don't delete the content, but I anonymize the user name.

 

[JoeR]

Anon user is someone who asked that their account be deleted. I don't delete the content, but I anonymize the user name.

That would make sense, guess I didnt even think about the name. Thats unfortunate!

 

[Bonsai Nut]

That would make sense, guess I didnt even think about the name. Thats unfortunate!

Yes it is, but I don't (and can't) question it. Everyone has their own life, and sometimes this site just doesn't work for them. I have to respect that... and it gives a sense of security to all our members to know that if they decide to duck out... they can.

Personally, I prefer they just leave the site for a bit... without deleting their accounts. It's not like I'm ever going to sell any information... or for that matter have any personal information to sell in the first place. I don't even ask for real names. If you want to live on this site with a pseudonym, that is ok by me.

Even today there are a lot of people who don't know my name is Greg

 

[JoeR]

Yes it is, but I don't (and can't) question it. Everyone has their own life, and sometimes this site just doesn't work for them. I have to respect that... and it gives a sense of security to all our members to know that if they decide to duck out... they can.

Personally, I prefer they just leave the site for a bit... without deleting their accounts. It's not like I'm ever going to sell any information... or for that matter have any personal information to sell in the first place. I don't even ask for real names. If you want to live on this site with a pseudonym, that is ok by me.

Even today there are a lot of people who don't know my name is Greg

I dont see why there would ever be any reason to delete an account in the first place, but I think the way you handle it is best. Indeed, it took me a couple years of creeping the forum to learn your name lol

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

@Bonsai Nut - Hello Greg

@JoeR - I believe key with baobab is nicking, scratching, filing, or otherwise breaking the seed coat to allow water to penetrate into the seed. The second key is heat. Baobab only grow during the "warm season" in Madagascar and Africa. Warm means pretty much above 80 F or warmer daily, and not too cool at night either. So if I were you, I would use a heat pad to keep the soil warm to hot, 80 to 95 F, in order to get germination. And keep the seedling warm to keep it growing until "summer" arrives in the Sandhills.

Otherwise you should have no trouble.

 

[JoeR]

@Bonsai Nut - Hello Greg

@JoeR - I believe key with baobab is nicking, scratching, filing, or otherwise breaking the seed coat to allow water to penetrate into the seed. The second key is heat. Baobab only grow during the "warm season" in Madagascar and Africa. Warm means pretty much above 80 F or warmer daily, and not too cool at night either. So if I were you, I would use a heat pad to keep the soil warm to hot, 80 to 95 F, in order to get germination. And keep the seedling warm to keep it growing until "summer" arrives in the Sandhills.

Otherwise you should have no trouble.

Funny that you tagged me just now, I opened up the bag this afternoon and found that one has already germinated- very happy to see that. Top right

I was away in Minnesota the last two weeks, brought a bunch of seeds to get started and keep me busy there. Unfortunately that meant I only had hotel kitchen knives to nic the seed coat. Not sure I went deep enough/too deep on the others, but I did OK on one at least!

I did not know about the heat requirement, so thanks for the tip. These guys were just sitting at room temperature, but they were soaked in hot water twice overnight.


Thank you Mr. Anonymous for the effective protocol

 

[JoeR]

Can anyone attest to a good soil mix? Original poster said coco coir, curious if anyone else has experience. From what I read, at least part organic is a must

 

[LittleDingus]

Can anyone attest to a good soil mix? Original poster said coco coir, curious if anyone else has experience. From what I read, at least part organic is a must

I've started some from seed in NAPA 8822.

This past summer all mine were in 8822. I think I got better growth the previous year with them in a more organic mix though. There are other reasons their growth may not have been as good this summer but I'm still thinking going back to a more organic mix anyway.

I believe in nature they all grow in nutrient poor, rocky soils. But water seems to speed their growth as long as done carefully...

 

[JoeR]

I've started some from seed in NAPA 8822.

This past summer all mine were in 8822. I think I got better growth the previous year with them in a more organic mix though. There are other reasons their growth may not have been as good this summer but I'm still thinking going back to a more organic mix anyway.

I believe in nature they all grow in nutrient poor, rocky soils. But water seems to speed their growth as long as done carefully...

My standard grow out mix is 50/50 sifted perlite and pinebark, thinking about trying that for them. Retains plenty of water but stays aerated. What are you planning on using next?

 

[LittleDingus]

My standard grow out mix is 50/50 sifted perlite and pinebark, thinking about trying that for them. Retains plenty of water but stays aerated. What are you planning on using next?

My more or less standard mix is roughly 60% NAPA and 40% either chunk coconut coir or fir bark. The chunk coir is a standard product at my local nursery of choice and the fir bark is standard at my local pet store.

I mostly use the coir as it gives dome fiber binding to the loose diatomaceous earth that seems to help my trees stabilize easier. The coir can get a bit mushy after a season though. The bark holds up better. Whish I go with might depend on what I see when I depot them next week. I've got 3 digitata so I may even try one in each.

I have pumice and perlite and charcoal and a few other options available too.

I want to start a few more seeds but want to understand winter care better first...I lost several trees over last winter because I think they got too dry The ones that lived woke up much later than I was comfortable with too.

It looks like you're starting seed now? Do you have any older plants? I'd be curious how you winter them. You're winters are warmer than mine.

 

[JoeR]

My more or less standard mix is roughly 60% NAPA and 40% either chunk coconut coir or fir bark. The chunk coir is a standard product at my local nursery of choice and the fir bark is standard at my local pet store.

I mostly use the coir as it gives dome fiber binding to the loose diatomaceous earth that seems to help my trees stabilize easier. The coir can get a bit mushy after a season though. The bark holds up better. Whish I go with might depend on what I see when I depot them next week. I've got 3 digitata so I may even try one in each.

I have pumice and perlite and charcoal and a few other options available too.

I want to start a few more seeds but want to understand winter care better first...I lost several trees over last winter because I think they got too dry The ones that lived woke up much later than I was comfortable with too.

It looks like you're starting seed now? Do you have any older plants? I'd be curious how you winter them. You're winters are warmer than mine.

These 5 seeds are my first time growing them, I was ordering standard bonsai species and decided why not throw these in with the order. These are also A. za, not digitata.

Winter care is conflicting. Reading through bnut some give them dormancy, some grow them like tropicals year round, some don't water all winter, etc. So ill have to do some more research there.

So far 4/5 have roots and I think the 5th is about to too. Very happy to see that! Planted them in 45/50/5 perlite/bark/small akadama.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

When Baobabs are actively growing, they need water. Water, then let approach dry, but don't quite dry it out, then water again. Using a coarse open mix helps to allow air to get to the roots. When night time temperatures begin to get cool, depending on each individual, the leaves will begin to yellow. The minute you see yellowing leaves, combined with slightly cooler weather, understand that the tree could be "going dormant" for the dry season. Stop watering. A friend in Memphis grows his baobab as a "patio tree" outside for summer. The minute leaves start dropping, he brings it indoors. It is put in the dark, under a stairwell, to remain totally dry from usually early October until late April. When he notices new leaf buds developing in late April, he moves it to a sunny spot, outside if it is warm enough, and begins watering.

Absolutely no water during the cool, dry rest or the roots will rot.

So if you have green leaves, keep it warm, sunny and well watered. The minute leaves start dropping, dry it out. You can keep them growing all year round if you can keep night temperatures above 65 F or maybe 70 F, with daytime being a few degrees warmer. They like heat and sun.

Jason Biggs is a BNut who grows Baobabs, he lives in South Africa, so for him, they are natives. Links to some of his threads below, read through, I'm sure there is better information that what I have offered.

https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/check-my-baobabs.7686/ - thread starts in 2012.

Adonsonia Digitata-Bringing out of dormancy

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BIG Bonsai!

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