I would put it in 100% shade. I would say these new buds dried out in the bright sun.
Unfortunately I have no where else to place it that it won’t get scorched. It’s under 80% and in between all the maples to give it a bit more. I’m hoping it actually more than 80%.
1. Chock up one side of the pot with a stone etc. This will help media dry out faster between waterings… but water only when you need to. Better to be a bit too dry from hereon out. But do not dry out.
that why I moved it to a nursery pot. Holes all around. And the bottom is 3“ large cypress bark for drainage. Then a pine bark mix I use on all my cuttings I grow. It not staying soak. I’m pretty happy with that. And use a water pen to make sure it’s dry enough before watering.
2. Use an anti fungal product.
i use infuse granular on everything. But I haven’t used a spray yet. I have cleary336 but every time I used it on a tree I over dose some how and the plant dies.
50/50 mix of. H2O / 3% H2O2 twice in one week to water. Then every three weeks.
b. Mist foliage and trunk with 1-2 TBSP H2O2 2-3x daily.
this is something I didn’t know or try yet. I’m going try this. When spraying it is 1-2 tbsp per gallon?
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2OH) is a decent preventative, but when the tree is severley infected, you will need a decent fungicide. I have had success Phyton 27 and 35; I have heard that Clearys 3336 also works well, but have not tried it as a drench.
I have clearly but just afraid to use it on it. I alway kill plants when I use it lol.
New white roots is a good sign.
Slip potting sometimes causes more trouble than it solves as neither water nor roots move well between very different soil types. Slip potting certainly does not solve the problem of poor soil.
i totally agree. I originally slip potted it to give it more room to grow. I was afraid the smaller pot was causing the soil to dry out at the pot walls. Or over heat. I was planning to probe and inspect the roots when moving it. But when I went to slip pot the roots look good and healthy. A lot of white roots growing into the kunama. And half the soil stayed in the pot. Wasn’t compacted. Very clean.
something I forgot to say was after I did this it made me think it was repotted last fall before I got it. So I started to think that it got damaged or stunted from to much root removal from the previous owner repotting it?
this makes me wonder if is damage, fungi, or just stunted. This tree is really stumping me.
Your problem might not be fungal, you might have spider mites, but I see no webbing. They do not make a lot of web in until the colony really gets going. Or, some other type of mites, some are difficult to see with out a microscope. I had the exact same thing happening on several of my serissas. The leaves fell off and new growth was stunted and/or turned crispy. I took a sample to work and used the microscope and found that mites were the culprit.
ive been looking for pest but didn’t think about using a microscope. I have one so I’ll look. Going to go do that now lol.
For mites you need a miticide, I recommend Avid, it works really well and is translaminar, so it is easier to apply, you don't have to worry about getting both sides of the leaves. I use Bayer 3 in 1 systemic miticide granules as a preventative on plants that are prone to mite infestations.
so I use infuse granular for fungus and bonide for pesticide. I did just buy the 3n1 spray from bayer to treat all my trees for the hell of it. You think this will be ok for mites if it’s the problem?
this tree is my only tree out of 100 azaleas showing any problem. Would you think a fungi’s or pest would jump to the others?
I personally don’t think it’s a root rot or watering issue. I haven’t ruled out fungi’s. I though I was good on pest but now I’m second guessing that.
do y’all think if the roots are growing i should fertilize? I normally use miracle grow acid fertilizer cut to 50%. But I’m thinking that’s too strong. What would y’all use? I
i did throw a very weak bonsai sumo cake on it.
