Bald Cypress Questions

Pachycaul

Mame
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Thought I'd create a thread rather than hijacking/piggybacking someone else's. Purchased this BC from nursery in FL in late Feb. Have done some wiring this summer as it took off after waking up late Jun/early Jul. I have read they can be slow to emerge from dormancy if there is a habitat adjustment. 20170304_150818_resized.jpg 20170807_174029_resized.jpg 20170514_093338_resized.jpg Screenshot_2017-02-05-21-27-00-2_resized.png It grew very strongly this summer, so I want to repot it next spring and have some questions as to how much surgery roots will stand for. This tree has major roots that were not spread during development, and now grow inward rather than spreading outward. Too much to cut I know, but anyone have experience prying them outward? Is this a feasibility, or should some other approach be attempted? Attached shows bare tree as received, tree at end of this summer, impression where one crossing root was removed, and tree used as a model for development. Thanks for your experience.
 
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Vin

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BC are able to withstand quite a beating. They are very flexible and you may be able to spread some of those roots outward when you go to repot it. You may want to leave most of the roots intact and just work on increasing the flare in the spring. There are some processes that will allow you to hold the roots in place while the tree grows. Good start BTW.

Here is a guide to what I'm talking about: https://www.bonsaitree.co.za/blogs/tree-talk/76458243-using-a-wooden-board-to-improve-roots
 

Pachycaul

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Thanks for the board info, I have seen it used for developing cuttings and layered starts, all with much smaller, younger roots. As long as this tree is vigorous, was wondering if I could "convince" the roots outward with wedges that stopped short of breaking/crushing the larger/older buttress roots. Certainly not in one season, but in several.
 

Vin

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Thanks for the board info, I have seen it used for developing cuttings and layered starts, all with much smaller, younger roots. As long as this tree is vigorous, was wondering if I could "convince" the roots outward with wedges that stopped short of breaking/crushing the larger/older buttress roots. Certainly not in one season, but in several.
Wedges will certainly allow for some coaxing.
 

Eric Group

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I am not picking on you... but with a flaw this large (if you consider it a flaw)- why did you buy that tree?

In my eyes this is not necessarily a flaw for the species. They grow more like this in nature than the growth habit you seem to be trying to force on it with a flattened, spreading base... it is fairly unique, interesting and more resembling of an actually BC you would see in the swamp the way it is now. Trying to bend the roots would probably break them, and if it didn't would never look natural or even appealing in an altered state "better than nature" way that you seem to be going for... IMO, leave them be and make it a focal point.
 

sorce

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Amen.

Half inch a sphagnum above that for a few years and this thing oughta be smokin!

Grow new roots there!

It's purty!

Sorce
 
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Pachycaul

Mame
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I am not picking on you... but with a flaw this large (if you consider it a flaw)- why did you buy that tree?
Great question- #1 The price was in my "budget conscious" range, and #2 it's not a fence post or telephone pole. (not that there's anything WRONG with that!):rolleyes: I don't so much consider it a flaw as a learning experience, and an opportunity to grow (no pun intended) in experience. #3
I have always loved the species, and look forward to meeting other like-minded souls interested in the challenge of working in the space between nature and nurture, culture and chaos, in perpetual awe of the force of life. #4 And, oh yeah, "Dang, would you look at that? That lil' bitty tree looks just like a real one!" That. That's why.
 

Eric Group

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At the "little bitty tree that looks like a real one"- that is exactly my point! Looks like a real BC, if you like that about it, I wouldn't mess with those roots at all.
 

Pachycaul

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At the "little bitty tree that looks like a real one"- that is exactly my point! Looks like a real BC, if you like that about it, I wouldn't mess with those roots at all.

Yes, but you see, I have all these TOOLS....OK, I agree, and, yes, I prefer bonsai that look like trees (bless you John Naka) so I'm only going to mess with them a little (here and there)(every now and then) and OF COURSE in the proper season, and only when "needed." Hear you, Thanks....you see that little thing there? Just a smidge off this side...
 

BillsBayou

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Photos 1 & 2: Are the roots packed with some sort of peaty potting soil?

This Spring, take it out of the current pot. You're attempting to fix the roots. Small pots will keep you from doing this. Get a restaurant bus tub, 7 or 9 inches deep.

Here is the potting criteria:
1) The tub needs to be deep enough that when filled with water, the water level is at least an inch above that peaty black soil I see in the first photo.
2) The soil isn't much deeper that its current potting level. Maybe an inch deeper if the tub is deep enough to accommodate number 1, above.
3) The top of the soil isn't any higher than it's current level with respect to the tree.
4) The soil should have 50% inorganic material 1/8" to 1/4" in size, and 50% anything organic, pine bark mulch, garden soil, potting soil..., so long as it doesn't just turn the water into soup.

Leave the tree submerged in water from March to October and draining water for the winter. Oh, wait, you're in New Mexico; high desert. You'll need to adjust the schedule so that you're drowning the tree from buds swelling to before the first freeze. Once you've punched holes in the tub to drain the tree, you'll need to nest the tubs to keep it drowned from Spring through Fall.

Ok, so why do all this? The roots look like crap. You didn't grow the tree, so don't be insulted. Whoever grew this tree wanted it to look like it was left in a 4-inch pot for much longer than was aesthetically pleasing to do so. Or they forgot it. I don't care which.

Leaving this in water will cause the roots, including those pillars we see now, to swell big and fat. They will grow splits in that gray bark and erupt in yellows and oranges. You may only need to do this for one growing season. If the tree looks good by the next spring, you're on your way to doing something else. Otherwise, keep drowning/draining for another year.

These techniques work here in NOLA. BCs are not native to the NM high desert, so your mileage may vary.
 

Pachycaul

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Thanks @BillsBayou - you are correct sir on photos #1 and 2. Space between roots is packed with muck. Container soil is more open, 1/16 in. grit with Turface or Akadama and composted organic matter. I have mulched the surface with dried shredded moss. It looks like grower tried to get moss to grow up the base, and that may be the rationale for the packed root column. Definitely on the repotting calendar for this spring. Thanks for the tub idea. I will do that along with a soil change. Do have surface roots going to edge of pot, so good news there. I grew it in a water filled saucer (photo#2) this summer, occasionally letting it go dry, and changing water when algae got going. I use only collected rain/snow water on my trees. Tapwater here is basically a solution of dissolved limestone with a cocktail of bromine and chlorine thrown in for flavor. We regularly have insanely low humidity here in summer, (occasionally <10%) so I have all my trees clustered together on a bench under a shade tree, and soak the ground around it, so hopefully get a little humidity going. Still get sufficient air movement, and I try to keep them from touching each other. Don't know how well their roots fuse over time, but am mostly concerned with the health of the tree, and getting that inward movement at soil level to turn outward. Thanks to all replies, some good experience!
 

GGB

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Cool tree, will be watching this thread
 

Pachycaul

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BC_01.jpg BC_02.jpg BC_03.jpg BC_04.jpg

OK, These are the "troublesome" roots in question. Photo 4 is the worst of the lot, and of most concern. "Fixable" or que sera, sera?
 

BillsBayou

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This was definitely left in under-sized nursery containers for too long. You cannot fix the cross-legged roots. You would have too do major carving to remove both and run the carving up the entire length of the trunk. Do not do that, though. I want to make them worse. ;)

Winter: Remove the root in photo 4 that goes out to the side. Report the tree in a restaurant bus tub (buy two tubs). Top of soil is at least 1 inch below the rim of the tub.

When the buds swell in the Spring, drown the tree and keep it under water until October. Poke holes in the tub and let it drain all Winter. In the Spring, put the tub into the other tub and flood it all over again. Repeat the cycle until that base is truly ugly fat.

The roots will swell and merge a bit. It will be beautiful in its disfigurement. Make your defect an effect.
 

Pachycaul

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...When the buds swell in the Spring, drown the tree and keep it under water until October. Repeat the cycle until that base is truly ugly fat....

The roots will swell and merge a bit. It will be beautiful in its disfigurement.....


OK, I see what you mean about root merger in the two fatties. The "flying buttress" root will go. Do you advocate heavy feeding in the drowning tub regimen?
 

Joe Dupre'

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Pachycaul, exactly how did you separate the quote from the reply? I tried a while back and I evidently did it wrong.
 

Pachycaul

Mame
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Joe- when you hit 'Reply' you get the post to which you are replying at the top of your reply. It begins and ends with the word Quote. If you are entering text between the "Quotes" that is where your reply will appear, as happened to me earlier in this thread. You can use as much or as little of the quote as needed to continue your communication. You may also just post your message by the "Post Reply" button at the bottom of the window without including any part of someone's post. Just make sure if you hit the "Reply" button in the thread message you will get that message within the beginning and ending "Quote." If you wish your text to appear separate from the quote, ensure that your entry is outside the "Quote," but don't quote me on that. Does that make sense? If so, feel free to explain it to me.
 
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