BillsBayou
Chumono
A friend of mine is heading out to his property in North Louisiana to do a pre-selection run on the bald cypress around his private lake. He asked me for ideas on pre-selection for January's dig. Some of this may sound like rambling, and likely is. 22 years of collecting has given me an insight on what makes a good bald cypress for bonsai, and what will kill you before you leave the swamp. I could do this as a YouTube video, but showing examples will be difficult if the water is high.
It is, indeed, all about that base. A good candidate for selection will be known for its first 6-inches. I'll get to that in a moment, but there are some things I check before I reach below the waterline to inspect the base of the tree.
1) Does the tree look healthy? Even in its barren state, bald cypress will look vigorous or weak.
2) Is it alive? This is second on the list, because trudging through the swamp is exhausting and you can't see if the tree is alive until you get over there and check. Give the tree a shake and look at the twigs. A fingernail scratch should reveal a green layer beneath the bark. I recommend knocking down any dead trees you find. When you turn around to come out of the swamp, you don't want to spot the same tree from a different angle and waste time heading over to check it out once more.
3) Is it too close to another tree? Nearby trees will give you more roots to cut. That's too much work. If the nearby tree is large, it may affect the distribution of roots on your candidate. It takes experience to learn how close a tree can be to a non-target tree based on the sizes of each tree. Generally, three feet is a good starting point.
4) Too MANY twigs? Yes, you can have too many twigs coming off the trunk. I've dug several trees over the years where the tree is erupting with twigs off the trunk. I've never been able to keep them alive. Prove me wrong on this, please. I'd love to know how it's done. Otherwise, something is causing the tree to twig out like mad. I'll assume it's a stressful situation and digging up the tree is more than it can take before it dies.
5) Look for wood borers. There aren't many in my swamps, but they are out there and you don't want them. Look for pin-holes and lumps made of saw dust.
6) Some trees are just too damned big. Look at the tree about 6-inches up from the soil line (or 6-inches up from the start of roots), if the trunk is roughly round and greater than 4-inches in diameter, you're at the upper end of what you can reasonably collect. Big trees take a great deal of effort and equipment. Doing this alone can lead to fatigue-related mistakes.
To the BASE!
Your ideal base will look something like this: Stand up at a desk or low counter. Put your wrists together and splay your fingers out in all directions. Keeping this arrangement, try to push your palms flat against the surface of the desk; wrists and forearms together.
1) Like most good bonsai, the roots should radiate out from the trunk in all directions. Many bald cypress have gaps in their radiating roots. If the gap is too large, it is likely something that will never look good.
2) The roots should not overlap.
3) The roots should radiate out close to the soil line, or, in the case of bald cypress, from roughly the same height on the trunk. Trees with roots coming out at a variety of heights are not uncommon and should be avoided. These odd root arrangements are often finger-sized and several inches up the trunk. That will never be a good bald cypress bonsai.
4) If most of the roots touch the soil as they leave the trunk and descend into the soil, then they should all be doing that. Leaving a few stragglers will take years of specialized development to correct. Or you can cut them off right away if it won't set the tree back in its development.
5) The trunk should not be a fat pipe that leaves it's roots behind. Back to the wrists and fingers exercise. Imagine a tree where many roots are radiating outward as do your fingers. In addition, you've got a 3 or 4-inch column plunging down from your palms. A good bald cypress root arrangement will affect the trunk itself. The trunk should be distorted by the roots radiating outward.
6) Looking at #4 and #5, above, I can say that great bald cypress have exposed roots and the trunk simply becomes the array of roots. No trunk descending below the exposed roots. There are many beautiful mature trees out there that look as if they are standing up out of the water and getting ready to walk around.
7) The best bases will have a flare at the base of the tree before the first roots begin. Look for something that is flaring out on all sides. This will likely be a lop-sided affair. Use your best judgement on selecting lop-sided bases.
Generally, you want something shaped like the bell of a trumpet or trombone (if not quite so abrupt). Even the walking trees (#6 above) will flare out before the roots begin.
Freaks and Geeks!
Bald cypress have a rough time in the swamps. Lumps, bumps, knots, carbuncles, holes, rot, wide open gashes, knees, and other oddities abound in the swamp. Many of the rules already given are made to be broken when you see a tree that looks like it should be dead, but is still thriving. I've come to the point where regular trees need to be outstanding for me to collect them, otherwise, I'm out there for the freaks. The kind of trees for which I'll give them rude names. These are the real treasures of the swamp.
Bald Cypress Style!
Bald cypress are survivors and oddities in the tree world. They live where other trees don't and survive the worst that Mother Nature can throw at them. If you're looking to do any of the classic Japanese styles of bonsai, I recommend not using a bald cypress. The best styles for bald cypress are the natural Southern America forms they take. Flat-tops, dead-tops, rotted out styles showcase the majesty of some of the longest living trees on the planet. If a bald cypress can live past 1,000 years, it deserves respect for the shapes it ultimately takes. It deserves to be represented as such in your collection. So, select trees that will have the most character when styled. Try to envision the future of your tree as a mature version of the species. This is not a Japanese tree, so style it like an American.
{ Right there at the end of the video is where I fade to an American flag waving in the wind as fighter jets fly. When the camera fades back to me, I'm holding a shotgun and chewing tobacco. I'm loading a round into the breach. I shoot off the top of my tree and say "Now we can begin." Fade to credits. Roll credits. Fade to post credits with me explaining bald cypress bonsai to the local Sherriff's office "I'm doing bonsai. Bone-Sigh. Banzai? Sure. Whatever. I'm making living art. A shotgun is a valid styling technique. An American tool for an American tree. Tell Mrs. Boudreaux that fence is mine, and I'll shoot it up any time I damn well feel like it. }
It is, indeed, all about that base. A good candidate for selection will be known for its first 6-inches. I'll get to that in a moment, but there are some things I check before I reach below the waterline to inspect the base of the tree.
1) Does the tree look healthy? Even in its barren state, bald cypress will look vigorous or weak.
2) Is it alive? This is second on the list, because trudging through the swamp is exhausting and you can't see if the tree is alive until you get over there and check. Give the tree a shake and look at the twigs. A fingernail scratch should reveal a green layer beneath the bark. I recommend knocking down any dead trees you find. When you turn around to come out of the swamp, you don't want to spot the same tree from a different angle and waste time heading over to check it out once more.
3) Is it too close to another tree? Nearby trees will give you more roots to cut. That's too much work. If the nearby tree is large, it may affect the distribution of roots on your candidate. It takes experience to learn how close a tree can be to a non-target tree based on the sizes of each tree. Generally, three feet is a good starting point.
4) Too MANY twigs? Yes, you can have too many twigs coming off the trunk. I've dug several trees over the years where the tree is erupting with twigs off the trunk. I've never been able to keep them alive. Prove me wrong on this, please. I'd love to know how it's done. Otherwise, something is causing the tree to twig out like mad. I'll assume it's a stressful situation and digging up the tree is more than it can take before it dies.
5) Look for wood borers. There aren't many in my swamps, but they are out there and you don't want them. Look for pin-holes and lumps made of saw dust.
6) Some trees are just too damned big. Look at the tree about 6-inches up from the soil line (or 6-inches up from the start of roots), if the trunk is roughly round and greater than 4-inches in diameter, you're at the upper end of what you can reasonably collect. Big trees take a great deal of effort and equipment. Doing this alone can lead to fatigue-related mistakes.
To the BASE!
Your ideal base will look something like this: Stand up at a desk or low counter. Put your wrists together and splay your fingers out in all directions. Keeping this arrangement, try to push your palms flat against the surface of the desk; wrists and forearms together.
1) Like most good bonsai, the roots should radiate out from the trunk in all directions. Many bald cypress have gaps in their radiating roots. If the gap is too large, it is likely something that will never look good.
2) The roots should not overlap.
3) The roots should radiate out close to the soil line, or, in the case of bald cypress, from roughly the same height on the trunk. Trees with roots coming out at a variety of heights are not uncommon and should be avoided. These odd root arrangements are often finger-sized and several inches up the trunk. That will never be a good bald cypress bonsai.
4) If most of the roots touch the soil as they leave the trunk and descend into the soil, then they should all be doing that. Leaving a few stragglers will take years of specialized development to correct. Or you can cut them off right away if it won't set the tree back in its development.
5) The trunk should not be a fat pipe that leaves it's roots behind. Back to the wrists and fingers exercise. Imagine a tree where many roots are radiating outward as do your fingers. In addition, you've got a 3 or 4-inch column plunging down from your palms. A good bald cypress root arrangement will affect the trunk itself. The trunk should be distorted by the roots radiating outward.
6) Looking at #4 and #5, above, I can say that great bald cypress have exposed roots and the trunk simply becomes the array of roots. No trunk descending below the exposed roots. There are many beautiful mature trees out there that look as if they are standing up out of the water and getting ready to walk around.
7) The best bases will have a flare at the base of the tree before the first roots begin. Look for something that is flaring out on all sides. This will likely be a lop-sided affair. Use your best judgement on selecting lop-sided bases.
Generally, you want something shaped like the bell of a trumpet or trombone (if not quite so abrupt). Even the walking trees (#6 above) will flare out before the roots begin.
Freaks and Geeks!
Bald cypress have a rough time in the swamps. Lumps, bumps, knots, carbuncles, holes, rot, wide open gashes, knees, and other oddities abound in the swamp. Many of the rules already given are made to be broken when you see a tree that looks like it should be dead, but is still thriving. I've come to the point where regular trees need to be outstanding for me to collect them, otherwise, I'm out there for the freaks. The kind of trees for which I'll give them rude names. These are the real treasures of the swamp.
Bald Cypress Style!
Bald cypress are survivors and oddities in the tree world. They live where other trees don't and survive the worst that Mother Nature can throw at them. If you're looking to do any of the classic Japanese styles of bonsai, I recommend not using a bald cypress. The best styles for bald cypress are the natural Southern America forms they take. Flat-tops, dead-tops, rotted out styles showcase the majesty of some of the longest living trees on the planet. If a bald cypress can live past 1,000 years, it deserves respect for the shapes it ultimately takes. It deserves to be represented as such in your collection. So, select trees that will have the most character when styled. Try to envision the future of your tree as a mature version of the species. This is not a Japanese tree, so style it like an American.
{ Right there at the end of the video is where I fade to an American flag waving in the wind as fighter jets fly. When the camera fades back to me, I'm holding a shotgun and chewing tobacco. I'm loading a round into the breach. I shoot off the top of my tree and say "Now we can begin." Fade to credits. Roll credits. Fade to post credits with me explaining bald cypress bonsai to the local Sherriff's office "I'm doing bonsai. Bone-Sigh. Banzai? Sure. Whatever. I'm making living art. A shotgun is a valid styling technique. An American tool for an American tree. Tell Mrs. Boudreaux that fence is mine, and I'll shoot it up any time I damn well feel like it. }
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