Bare rooting
- Thread starter nagatay
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Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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I have bare rooted young junipers deliberately.... and come close to bare rooting 500 plus year old collected junipers when the turface based soil fell away from the majority of their roots with a simple shake (not really planned). All have done well, though the ancient juniper sulked for a year before growing well again. Any way, to answer your question, junipers will likely survive aggressive re-potting if done in the right season (spring), but your mileage will vary depending on the age of the tree as well as overall health and aftercare. My general recommendation is to not bare root them, but replace, at most, half the soil at every re-pot.
Mike Hennigan
Chumono
Yes bare root means no soil. As in, the roots are bare ?
Johnathan
Omono
I think this would be more important than technique. Timing is everything. That's another debate though lol
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I think if you're talking about a nursery tree, bare rooting is absolutely the most important step that must be taken.
I go hard when its the initial root work.
I've wasted enough time styling trees for a year then doing the initial root work, only to have the tree not agree with the root work.
So I vowed to get my trees into suitable substrates FIRST and worry about the rest later.
Edit:
I may adjust this methodology considering pines....
I go hard when its the initial root work.
I've wasted enough time styling trees for a year then doing the initial root work, only to have the tree not agree with the root work.
So I vowed to get my trees into suitable substrates FIRST and worry about the rest later.
Edit:
I may adjust this methodology considering pines....
Like anything, “it depends”. If the styling work weakened the tree, sure, it might be hard for the tree to withstand reporting. If it didn’t, there should be no issue repotting.
But, most who are new to the hobby don’t understand how trees react to what we do to them, so we’ve created the “insult” rule: “One insult per year”. Limiting “insults” gives the tree time to recover from the last insult to have strength to withstand another.
Now, once you gain some experience and learn how trees react, and you learn how to work your trees in a less “insulting” manner, you can work your trees more often, or even off season.
Walter Pall says the same thing. You can get away with doing stuff “off season”, IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU’RE DOING. And if you can provide proper aftercare. Most of us don’t, and can’t. And even if you DO and CAN, it’s still preferable to “follow the rules” as the tree will be less stressed.
If there’s an emergency, then do what needs to be done. Otherwise, wait for the optimum time.
Kendo
Mame
My recommendation is to learn from Sensei. Hai Internet full of lies. Hai Sometime I laughing at internet bonsai. Hai
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Yes, timing is key certainly.
Thanks for the input Adair.
Another thing that I've told myself after my 3-4 years in the hobby is that I want to build a good rootbase and nebari first as well....and starting them off in a good substrate from the get-go helps that....
I'm also someone who basically is forced to water on a schedule most of the year, so I tend to over water....hence all my problems with deciduous...so the initial removal of nursery soil is key for me.
Putting a layer of spaghnum moss on top of the soil helps retain moisture. This method can help you with your deciduous trees.
yes nursery plants, we reply in feb, here in Florida. Thanks
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