Beech/Fagus

[BobbyLane]

Here's just a quick example of how leaving a tree in a nursery pot can power rapid growth in just one season. Its not root bound, its not compacted, its just a well established pot bursting with healthy roots.
This Beech was chopped low back in April this year 2022

 

[BobbyLane]

June onwards

 

[BobbyLane]

July, see how much the next trunk section has thickened, and there is also some callus forming around the chop. Taper is already looking good, transitions are developing quickly....
I defoliated it to have a look at the stucture and it was moving so quickly I wired the future lines into it.
I did lose the top section of the leader tho, the wire had bit in too quickly and too much bark came off when I removed the bitten in wire, so the front might change, we'll look at leaf drop

 

[BobbyLane]

The new front im looking at. the nebari is better from the old front, but branch formation is good here and looks more flowy, but still early days...ill wire the primary lines again at leaf drop, I may also change the potting angle, it will likely go into a smaller capacity training pot, so just a matter of slicing off the bottom half of the root ball, ill update then...

 

[GreatLakesBrad]

Nice! just one flush for beech for you or do you get multiple? I have a Sylvatica that is in a small pot needing to be given more room via a repot.

 

[AshleyMammal]

Incredible growth and progress over a year!

I've got a couple of stumps that i've grown fat new leaders for and trying to decide whether to chop this year or give another year of unrestricted growing. To my untrained eyes (please correct me, i'm trying to learn, and no offence intended @BobbyLane) I'm wondering if the second section of trunk could have been left another year to smooth the transition? Will this transition as it is smooth out naturally over time?

What's the plan for the chop site, carve or keep re-wounding the callous slowly to attempt to heal over completely?

Again, i'm learning to develop a critical eye without intending to be critical of anyone's work!

 

[BobbyLane]

Nice! just one flush for beech for you or do you get multiple? I have a Sylvatica that is in a small pot needing to be given more room via a repot.

This one has given me multiple, but ive had them in bonsai pots before that have only produced one flush, I think the vigour can vary from tree to tree. I also feed at most waterings, miracle gro, tomato n seaweed, maybe that helps too not sure.

 

[BobbyLane]

Incredible growth and progress over a year!

I've got a couple of stumps that i've grown fat new leaders for and trying to decide whether to chop this year or give another year of unrestricted growing. To my untrained eyes (please correct me, i'm trying to learn, and no offence intended @BobbyLane) I'm wondering if the second section of trunk could have been left another year to smooth the transition? Will this transition as it is smooth out naturally over time?

What's the plan for the chop site, carve or keep re-wounding the callous slowly to attempt to heal over completely?

Again, i'm learning to develop a critical eye without intending to be critical of anyone's work!

cool, yeh the transitions will come over time, its by no means a finished project or ready for a bonsai pot.
I might hollow it, little by little. Thats not my intended front so havnt given much thought but it does look pretty cool from the chopped side but leader is facing away and need to change potting angle.
Theres cut paste on edges of chop, id like to get that forming a ring, which it will because all the sap is flowing around it.
The leader will fatten quickly also because everything from the roots is going through that section, as in theres no lower growth or branching to take away from that flow of sap, so no it hasnt made much difference if i cut the leader a bit early if you understand what I mean. think thats what you were asking. I also did it because I wanted to induce some back budding but didnt produce much if anything on lower trunk.