Beech questions

barrosinc

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Why don't I see seeds of fagus crenata (Japanese beech)???

I see two different lines of pruning:
1. Pinch growth as opening and leave 2 leaves or sp.

2. Let new growth harden off and chop back.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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They are rare outside of Japan for sure. I’ve owned a few, and have only seen a handful more in person.

The different lines of pruning you mentioned are for different phases of development. 1 is for keeping the ramification tight, kind of like pinching out the center bud of developed Japanese maples. It will stop growth at those two nodes, and the buds don’t predictably set afor the next year. 2 allows the growth harden off, for branch thickening and building strength.

There is a hybrid between the two, which allows the shoots to fully extend, then defoliate it fully in the fall, which will force new buds to form more reliably. Wood taught it to me a few years ago, and it worked well:
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2012/10/27/fall-defoliation-of-a-japanese-beech/
https://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2013/06/15/japanese-beech-part-3/
 

barrosinc

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Great info, Brian.
Thanks.

I don't really see seeds grow on beech trees... and crenata seeds go like 5 for 5usd if you find them.
 

barrosinc

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What should I do with a large trunk from a nursery (rescued from the burn pile for 35 usd, these are expensive here).

20180818_120809.jpg

20180818_140147.jpg


(The thick branch that seems to go up is another tree)

Option 1: I had to chop it at the leaves you can see there. I can cut off the branch with 3 buds if that helps the rest.

Option 2: leave the little branch.


Now roots:
Option a: remove soil and try to use roots

Option b: groundlayer now.
 

M. Frary

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Man Max,that's a bruiser!
I dont know beeches except they grow slow and have only like a single flush of growth a year?
Maybe someone like @JudyB can help.
 

Maros

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If it is Fagus syslvatica - ground layer could take three years to produce decent roots. Quite hard but doable. If in container you could chop it and expose it to sunlight to produce new growth, I would not recommended chopping and repotting in one season. When new growth is there and a lot of buds are available then figure out repotting.
 

BobbyLane

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my bad.i thought the tree behind was a branch until you just mentioned it, i suggested reducing back to it in our pm...
well in that case i would just do the chop closer to spring.
 

BobbyLane

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my bad.i thought the tree behind was a branch until you just mentioned it, i suggested reducing back to it in our pm...
well in that case i would just do the chop closer to spring.

with beech its hit n miss whether dormant nodes on the trunk take off or fail.with no lower branches on the trunk to cut back to, i probably wouldnt have bought this.take a look at my beech threads and youll see im always cutting back to low branches, not relying on nodes. you will get mixed views when asking on a forum, so most of the time ive always done my own thing, for the price theres no harm in experimenting.
 

JudyB

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Agreed that these are difficult to layer, a chop is probably your best option. I would suggest reducing down to known buds and try for old dormant buds to pop. I imagine you could approach graft low onto the trunk as well.
 

barrosinc

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If it is Fagus syslvatica - ground layer could take three years to produce decent roots. Quite hard but doable. If in container you could chop it and expose it to sunlight to produce new growth, I would not recommended chopping and repotting in one season. When new growth is there and a lot of buds are available then figure out repotting.
Thanks! It's sylvatica.
It was in a container for the last three years.
I bought it chopped for cheap. I will expose to the sun, sealed the chop.

I cut a bit of the rootball to be able to fit it in something manageable, but will not bareroot/hbr or anything similar.

my bad.i thought the tree behind was a branch until you just mentioned it, i suggested reducing back to it in our pm...
well in that case i would just do the chop closer to spring.
No problem. It has buds at the top (4 but still).
Spring is around the corner. Beeches usually take a couple of extra weeks. So should be a month at most.

with beech its hit n miss whether dormant nodes on the trunk take off or fail.with no lower branches on the trunk to cut back to, i probably wouldnt have bought this.take a look at my beech threads and youll see im always cutting back to low branches, not relying on nodes. you will get mixed views when asking on a forum, so most of the time ive always done my own thing, for the price theres no harm in experimenting.
Yours, maros large hornbeams and walter's large beech were my inspiration.

If it works... it works. Definitely the price is worth the risk.


Agreed that these are difficult to layer, a chop is probably your best option. I would suggest reducing down to known buds and try for old dormant buds to pop. I imagine you could approach graft low onto the trunk as well.
I layered one last year. It took two years to work.

I could approach graft if no buds appear next year.
 

barrosinc

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Not really sure. Right now I depend on its survival and back budding.

Any ideas?
 

TN_Jim

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Not really sure. Right now I depend on its survival and back budding.

Any ideas?

I collected 3 F. grandiflora this spring. Taking into account that yours is a different species I am not really familiar with, I really wish that when I had collected and bare rooted them that I had put them in a better draining mix (~60/40 de/lava) rather than the straight de they’re in now.

I have started watering them less than all other trees and this seems to have helped.

Also, early summer the largest one lost all leaves..thought it was dead..two weeks later it started throwing buds like crazy.

So in other words, maybe consider well draining mix and don’t discount resilience
 

Maros

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Not really sure. Right now I depend on its survival and back budding.

Any ideas?
If staying at current height slim tall elegant design. Quick smartphone drawing...
sketch-1534772703540.png
 
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barrosinc

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I collected 3 F. grandiflora this spring. Taking into account that yours is a different species I am not really familiar with, I really wish that when I had collected and bare rooted them that I had put them in a better draining mix (~60/40 de/lava) rather than the straight de they’re in now.

I have started watering them less than all other trees and this seems to have helped.

Also, early summer the largest one lost all leaves..thought it was dead..two weeks later it started throwing buds like crazy.

So in other words, maybe consider well draining mix and don’t discount resilience
I hope I grey a ton of buds just like you.
As recommended by some fellow chileans and previously on this thread I preferred not to repot.
Next year it will go into soilless modern substrate.
 

TN_Jim

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I hate to suggest this relatively unknowingly...but stressing the tree in spring could make it back bud...

Could trim back every branch to one (2?) bud...

Tree thinks;)...somethings wrong, better not have all my eggs in these apical baskets (top branches)...better make some new braches for backup??? <-hard as nails science:cool:

Also...could chop again much lower?
Mine (very similar in stature), will be chopped back (in half at least) from initial collection cut last spring.

Just ideas..
 
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