Beginner's seiju elm

Smysgma

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
40
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
USDA Zone
7a
Hello!

I have a seiju elm that I bought from a nursery late last fall (#3 pot). The bark looked rubbed smooth on the first couple of inches of the trunk (it looks slightly more rough already). Even with its reverse taper, I just love this little tree. During the winter, I brought it into the garage only during the deepest or longest freezes. Once it leafed out in the spring, I thinned it quite a bit (at least for a newbie's first try) and it seems to be growing well. I see that this tree is going to give me a lot of trimming practice!

Before reducing the height of the tree, I'm trying my hand at air layering. I started the first one about three weeks ago, a second one today, and I have my eye on one or two others. I was worried that the air layering pods/balls would not retain enough moisture, but I peeked inside the first one today and it seems okay.

I have a few questions if anyone has advice to share, please:
--Is it okay to trim back new growth above the air layer? Or would that take nutrients away from the growing roots?
--Has anyone had good luck at getting seiju cuttings to root? What's the trick? I've tried a few different ways and they have all either shriveled up or grown mold.
--I'm confused about fertilizers. Any suggestions for a seiju?
--Today I kept seeing ants in the seiju's pot. Would they be damaging the roots? I put some diatomaceous earth on the soil, but do I need to do more?

Any wise words would be appreciated!

seiju trunk.jpg
seiju air layers.jpeg
 

ChefB

Mame
Messages
195
Reaction score
217
Location
New Orleans
USDA Zone
9a
--Has anyone had good luck at getting seiju cuttings to root? What's the trick? I've tried a few different ways and they have all either shriveled up or grown mold.
Keep the cuttings out of the sun in a high humidity environment(ziplock or humidity dome). Indirect sun or you’ll cook them in your humidity dome. I like builders sand and perlite for cutting media very well drained. Only water every 5 days or so. The first watering would be 50/50 peroxide/h20. This will sterilize the soil of any pathogens that may cause your cuttings to fail. You could probably just root them in a glass of water also. It is an Elm.
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,545
Reaction score
15,210
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
Seiju cuttings are relatively easy. Winter cuttings taken soon after leaf drop are easiest as they don't dehydrate as quick as summer cuttings but will take up to 6 months to root.
Spring and summer cuttings need humidity control as mentioned above or the leaves will continue to transpire moisture which cannot be replaced with no roots. Summer cuttings should root in 3-6 weeks or so depending on conditions.
Growing mould would indicate not enough air flow or some sort of contamination from the soil/pot/water/cuttings/cover? Peroxide treatment helps and is non-toxic to plants or humans.
Many different propagating mixes are successful. I use 50/50 coir peat /coarse perlite
I find that rooting hormone does help with time, % and quality of cutting success.

Seiju can also be grown from root cuttings like other elms so whenever you repot save any thicker pieces of root.

Seiju is a corky bark variety so will develop thick, black bark with fissures. The smooth section below branches is likely where the corky bark was rubbed off through rough handling or maybe rotted off due to excess water as sometimes happens close to soil level. Corky bark will gradually return as the trunk expands.

Traditional wisdom is that layers rely on growth above to feed new roots therefore do not trim above layers until after they are well rooted. I usually cut back when the layers are removed and potted up.

Any fertilizer is Ok for Seiju. They cannot read so do not know what the packet says. Only interested in nutrients and all fert should have nutrients.

Ants probably do not directly damage roots but they do excavate holes in the soil and introduce water repellent to the tunnels which will limit the water available in the pot. Diatomaceous earth may work but I usually use ant baits or poison as ants seem immune to many insecticides. Some have had success drowning ants by dunking the whole pot in a tub of water but ants can survive hours in the pockets of air in the soil so you will probably need to keep the pot submerged for a day at least.
 

ChefB

Mame
Messages
195
Reaction score
217
Location
New Orleans
USDA Zone
9a
Thank you @Shibui for backing up my drunken ramble with the wise words the OP was looking for.
 

BrightsideB

Omono
Messages
1,230
Reaction score
1,685
Location
Canton, Georgia
USDA Zone
7a
I’ve had success submerging pots in water for 5-10 minutes to get rid of the ants. It doesn’t kill them but from what I see they don’t go back to nesting in the pot.
 

TrevorLarsen

Shohin
Messages
348
Reaction score
440
Location
Salt Lake City, Utah
USDA Zone
7a
I literally ordered one of these 10 minutes ago. What are the odds? Thanks for all of the great info! Has anyone ever ordered one of these from House of Bonsai? It’s my first order from them but they seem like a good company.
 

Smysgma

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
40
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
USDA Zone
7a
The first watering would be 50/50 peroxide/h20. This will sterilize the soil of any pathogens that may cause your cuttings to fail.
This is new to me! I'll give it a try. I haven't tried a sand/perlite mix either. Thank you!
 

Smysgma

Seedling
Messages
13
Reaction score
40
Location
Tulsa, Oklahoma
USDA Zone
7a
Seiju cuttings are relatively easy. Winter cuttings taken soon after leaf drop are easiest as they don't dehydrate as quick as summer cuttings but will take up to 6 months to root.
Spring and summer cuttings need humidity control as mentioned above or the leaves will continue to transpire moisture which cannot be replaced with no roots. Summer cuttings should root in 3-6 weeks or so depending on conditions.
Growing mould would indicate not enough air flow or some sort of contamination from the soil/pot/water/cuttings/cover? Peroxide treatment helps and is non-toxic to plants or humans.
Many different propagating mixes are successful. I use 50/50 coir peat /coarse perlite
I find that rooting hormone does help with time, % and quality of cutting success.

Seiju can also be grown from root cuttings like other elms so whenever you repot save any thicker pieces of root.

Seiju is a corky bark variety so will develop thick, black bark with fissures. The smooth section below branches is likely where the corky bark was rubbed off through rough handling or maybe rotted off due to excess water as sometimes happens close to soil level. Corky bark will gradually return as the trunk expands.

Traditional wisdom is that layers rely on growth above to feed new roots therefore do not trim above layers until after they are well rooted. I usually cut back when the layers are removed and potted up.

Any fertilizer is Ok for Seiju. They cannot read so do not know what the packet says. Only interested in nutrients and all fert should have nutrients.

Ants probably do not directly damage roots but they do excavate holes in the soil and introduce water repellent to the tunnels which will limit the water available in the pot. Diatomaceous earth may work but I usually use ant baits or poison as ants seem immune to many insecticides. Some have had success drowning ants by dunking the whole pot in a tub of water but ants can survive hours in the pockets of air in the soil so you will probably need to keep the pot submerged for a day at least.
You have provided a lot useful information here! Now I can relax about several things that have been worrying me. Thank you so much!
 
Top Bottom