Best time to repot quince?

[Tim.E]

Hey guys,

I picked up to quince over the weekend that have pretty decent starts for nursery stock. Just curious as to when the best time to repot them would be? They are chanomeles superba crimson and gold I believe.

 

[0soyoung]

August/September works - I prefer to do it then.
Before flowers open is also good, but it is difficult to avoid knocking off flower buds.
It is not a good idea when they are in the state shown in your pix and onward toward July/Aug, but you can if you're prepared to pop it into a humidity tent in the shade for two or three months. I presume you are intending to bare root it and put it into an inorganic substrate. Otherwise, it depends on how much you disturb/damage the root mass - obviously, you can slip-pot anytime.

 

[Cypress187]

Looks abit like a firethorn, very cool.

Edit: nvm

 

[quietobserver]

Hey guys,

I picked up to quince over the weekend that have pretty decent starts for nursery stock. Just curious as to when the best time to repot them would be? They are chanomeles superba crimson and gold I believe.

Pretty flowers on that one.

 

[Tim.E]

August/September works - I prefer to do it then.
Before flowers open is also good, but it is difficult to avoid knocking off flower buds.
It is not a good idea when they are in the state shown in your pix and onward toward July/Aug, but you can if you're prepared to pop it into a humidity tent in the shade for two or three months. I presume you are intending to bare root it and put it into an inorganic substrate. Otherwise, it depends on how much you disturb/damage the root mass - obviously, you can slip-pot anytime.

Awesome, how aggressively can you prune the roots on these guys? I have roots come right out of the bottom on this one

 

[0soyoung]

Awesome, how aggressively can you prune the roots on these guys? I have roots come right out of the bottom on this one

Pretty aggressively, but keep your sanity!
I have dug them f, washed out the dirt/soil out and pruned the roots to fit in a pot. If you have any experience - pretend it is spring and you've got a maple in your hands - that's how aggressive one can be.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I think Osoyoung will agree, timing makes all the difference as to how much root work you can do. At the end of winter as buds swell for spring you can be pretty agressive.

End of summer, when night time temperatures begin to drop below 65 F, there is a flush of root growth. For my zone 5b region this time period is Aug 15 to Sept 15. Repotting at this time can be agressive, IF you provide winter protection from extreme cold. Keep them above + 23 F ( - 6 C) for winter, if repotted in August or early September. Normally a flowering quince of the larger growing 'Toyo Nishiki or C. speciosa types can handle cold, mine survive -17 F (- 25 C) simply under the bench with tarps on 3 sides to block sun & wind.

But a recently repotted quince won't have time to fully mature and harden off a root system. So winter protection would be appropriate.

Flowering quince will root from cuttings, even large diameter cuttings will root. This means with good after care (humidity tents, etc) you can just about totally remove the existing root system, and it will grow a new one. But it is risky, the more you remove the more you stress the tree, and the longer the recovery time. With mine I'm usually pretty gentle with my quince root systems.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I think Osoyoung will agree, timing makes all the difference as to how much root work you can do. At the end of winter as buds swell for spring you can be pretty agressive.

End of summer, when night time temperatures begin to drop below 65 F, there is a flush of root growth. For my zone 5b region this time period is Aug 15 to Sept 15. Repotting at this time can be agressive, IF you provide winter protection from extreme cold. Keep them above + 23 F ( - 6 C) for winter, if repotted in August or early September. Normally a flowering quince of the larger growing 'Toyo Nishiki or C. speciosa types can handle cold, mine survive -17 F (- 25 C) simply under the bench with tarps on 3 sides to block sun & wind.

But a recently repotted quince won't have time to fully mature and harden off a root system. So winter protection would be appropriate.

Flowering quince will root from cuttings, even large diameter cuttings will root. This means with good after care (humidity tents, etc) you can just about totally remove the existing root system, and it will grow a new one. But it is risky, the more you remove the more you stress the tree, and the longer the recovery time. With mine I'm usually pretty gentle with my quince root systems.

 

[j evans]

I knew it had been a long day but I'm starting to see double. I like the flower color.