Best time to style a maple?

TheDarkHorseOne

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We're heading into months now where the trees begin to put themselves to sleep, and I've heard things all over the place as to when to shape up a maple, so some advice would be welcome. Is this the best time to pare down a maple? The one I have has got new growth from this year that has about 2 inch internodes, heheh. The only thing I've done to it as the owner has been defoliation which worked marvelously at restoring it's health and beauty. It's responded wonderfully and is a gorgeous, overgrown mess at this point. So, cut it back soon once it drops leaves, or wait until pre-bud next year?
 

Stan Kengai

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Japanese maples are somewhat complex when it comes to pruning, as far as deciduous trees are concerned. But I'm sure you don't want to prune them now because the are apt to die back with the winter cold. You can trim the shoots now, but it will lead to vigorous growth in the spring. Much depends on the stage of development you tree is in. More to follow . . .
 

Poink88

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From what I've read...you shouldn't cut now. Deciduous trees supposedly store their energy closer to the trunk from the branches. If you cut now, you will be disposing those energy that is not "stored" properly yet (still on the outer branches). Let it complete the "flow back" before you trim and yes, allow for possible die back also.
 

rockm

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DO NOT PRUNE MAPLES---or other deciduous trees--agressively now. Not really a storage issue, more of a growth issue.

Hard pruning stimulates buds to push new growth down the branch behind the cut. You don't want new growth going into the fall and winter. Any growth that pops new now will be killed off by frost, potentially weaking the tree and slowing next spring's growth.

I've had success hard pruning and designing maples in late winter (When buds are dormant). This sets up the tree to push more adventious buds in the spring.
 

MACH5

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There is some debate as to when is best to prune Japanese maples. Even Ryan Neil has said that best time is right after leaf fall while his teacher Kimura proposes Spring as best time. I've been growing Japanese maples for 15 years in the North East. I really do think it depends on the area you live in. In colder climates my suggestion would be late Winter/early Spring. In areas with more moderate wintertime temperatures I think both seasons would probably be fine.

In my area what has worked best for me, is pruning in late Winter as well.
 

TheDarkHorseOne

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First off, thanks for the answers, folks. I live in Indiana and we have a variable climate at this point. For the first time since Spring, we're going to have low temps dipping slightly into the 40s this week. Also, I should probably have been more clear. I wasn't saying chop chop now. At the very least, I was talking after leaf drop. I think I said that, but it looks like I was unclear. Sorry about that.

Considering my area has a definite Winter, am I hearing that late Winter, early Spring is best? If I'm reading it correctly, Naka says that if it isn't an older tree, it should be cut back in the dormant season. So I'm thinking probably Dec, Jan, Feb? It's a pretty amazing tree, and I want to give it it's best chance.
 

MACH5

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I would prune in Feb/March. I personally would stay away from Dec/Jan. Have fun with your tree!
 

TheDarkHorseOne

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I would prune in Feb/March. I personally would stay away from Dec/Jan. Have fun with your tree!

I just want to have it healthy and be satisfied with it, eventually, Mach, heheh. I'll worry and wonder and fret and smile all along the way, trust me. And, as is common, one day I'll want to change it again.
 

Smoke

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I prune year round. Very temperate climate though.
 
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Some of my recent reading of the experts in Japan says 10-14 days after leaf drop. No earlier and no later.

When I deal with traditional Japanese plants I go with what the Japanese say.

Talk about adding to the confusion.
 

JudyB

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Some of my recent reading of the experts in Japan says 10-14 days after leaf drop. No earlier and no later.

When I deal with traditional Japanese plants I go with what the Japanese say.

Talk about adding to the confusion.

But the plant doesn't know that it's Japanese.... I think it's a better gauge to go with advice based on your location. The same plant will react completely different at the exact same point in it's yearly cycle in different locations. Yes, they have been at this forever, but they've been at this forever - in Japan.
 
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JudyB, You may have something there but my reading, and I need to go back and read again, indicates the 10-14 days after leaf drop is based on the plants physiology. A Japanese Maple is a Japanese Maple because of it's DNA not because it is grown in Tokyo or Greensboro, NC.
 

JudyB

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Mac, interesting subject, I wonder if anyone has seen anything that would substantiate either of these viewpoints. I'd be very interested to see discussion on this...
 

Smoke

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JudyB, You may have something there but my reading, and I need to go back and read again, indicates the 10-14 days after leaf drop is based on the plants physiology. A Japanese Maple is a Japanese Maple because of it's DNA not because it is grown in Tokyo or Greensboro, NC.

No, not quite. While DNA has something to do with it, like "it will" drop it's leaves in winter, has nothing in it's DNA as to when. Latitude has everything to do with how the same plant in Tokyo, Japan grows and how it grows in San Diego, California. Especially when it comes to losing its leaves and even if it will have a fall color display. Without suffeciant cold at night the sugars will not color the leaves significantly here to get a good fall display. It just stays to darn warm at night.

We have liquid ambers in Fresno, CA and while the fall display is already underway in Vermont, Fall display here will not be for several more weeks. Like about 6 or more!

I have had a couple good Fall displays before, but they are much to far and in between for my liking.
 

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coppice

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I kept my trees in NH for many years. I would top prune only after leaves color up. And rub dirt or something on the cuts. if you wait till winter is full on, you run the risk of spring bleed out in maples.

I killed an awful lot of bloodgood Japan maples chopping them in the spring and not using fast draining soil around their feet.
 
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Smoke,
You kind of made the point in a round about way. Yes, the timing is based on when the leaves drop. 10-14 days after the leaves drop. The leaves drop based on the genetic system of the particular tree. When the thing has prepared it's self to enter winter, the leaves drop. Doesn't matter where it it located.

The timing of the trimming is based on the time clock in the tree, not the date on the calendar or the latitude and longitude of where it is sitting.

And Coppice has it right as to why. Cut ca. 10-14 days after leaf drop the things won't bleed out and will self seal the cuts. Cut later and the wound will weep come spring. Cut sooner and you are removing energy that hasn't made it back to the trunk and root system.
 

0soyoung

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... rub dirt or something on the cuts.

This is about the stupidest thing I have ever heard. Verticilium, for one, is a soil-born pathogen and probably the most publicized pathogen of Japanese Maples. I cannot fathom why anyone would even think this is a good idea.
 

Smoke

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Smoke,
You kind of made the point in a round about way.
The timing of the trimming is based on the time clock in the tree, not the date on the calendar or the latitude and longitude of where it is sitting.

So what you are saying is that if I own a maple in the state of Maine and it loses it's leaves every year around the 10th of Oct.

Then I suddenly get transferred to San Diego Cal., the tree will continue to lose it's leaves in Oct. based on it's genetic code?

You are tellin me that a tree has absolutley no way to reaclimitize to different geographical locations? This is all based on a strict code of DNA?

Good thing Neanderthals had the ability to move around or you and I would not be here.


Just for the record I have trees here in California that I purchase in strict micro climates on the coast that take about two seasons to get used to their new surroundings.

Trident maples at Muranaka are starting to turn now. Mine will not even think about turning for at least 6 more weeks.

here is the laittle maple I cut in this thread

Not many people can cut maples or should cut maples in Sept. Mine is just getting it's second spring.
 

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gergwebber

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Good thing Neanderthals had the ability to move around or you and I would not be here.

Actually, Neanderthals only make up a bit our dna and only if your ancestors are from the northern hemisphere...(without them I would just be less hairy and not have a penchant for headbutting stuff) Nerd shuriken attack! hyaaaa!

Otherwise I totally agree with you smoke. DNA tells plant what to do based on outside signals: to flower as the days lengthen, or go to sleep when it gets cold.
 

painter

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my question to this is, some types of maples hold onto there leaves, even though dormant thru the winter, and dont fall off until new buds appear, what should i look for in those to see the 10- 14 day period before cutting back?
 
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