Best Way to Apply Insecticide / Fungicide

[ThirdCoastBorn]

Hello,

Very beginner question here, but what is generally accepted 'best practice' for applying insecticide/fungicide?

Several of my nursery stock plants have developed a growing insect/fungus problem -- I'm guessing due to some combination of poor-draining soil and/or a diseased plant that I didn't properly look over or quarantine before introducing to the rest? Guess it's better to learn such a lesson now, early in my bonsai career, while the majority of my plants are easily replaceable.

I have BioAdvanced's 3-in-1 concentrate (which I'm assuming is considered systemic despite not saying so -- says "Up to 30 days protection"). Should I apply the diluted solution using a tank sprayer or is it better to apply to each leaf individually (with some sort of skewered cotton swab)? Either way, do I need to cover the soil while doing so? Surprisingly, most of the books I have are short on this detail.

Thank you in advance!

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

First, getting things in the right order is best for development.

- Identify the issue
- Identify the cause
- Remove the cause of the issue (poor draining soil? Do a repot instead of trying to kill whatever you're causing to thrive)
- If the issue can't be fixed, make sure your plant is suited for your garden/location (growing coconuts in iceland just doesn't work no matter the amount of care)

Then:
You have ID'ed the problem. Is a biocide needed? Can peroxide or something else fix the issue? If not: Take a broad spectrum, or even better, a small spectrum biocide and tackle the problem.

Is it leaf based? Always cover the soil. Spray the entire plant, if possible inside a plastic tent or box, that way you get maximum coverage an low chance of spilling (safer for you and your surroundings).

Is it soil based?
Use on the soil and lower parts of the trunk only.

Is it systemic?
Use it as directed on the label.

Always check the MSDS of all of the compounds. You don't want to be surprised with some naphta blowing up your shed, or killing you canary. You don't want your cat to become epileptic, or your kid allergic, due to neonicotinoid exposure.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I would NOT repot trees that are already weak, if you know you have an insect problem, treat the insects first. If you know it is a fungal issue and not an insect issue, then SOMETIMES repotting right away is useful for treating fungus, sometimes repotting a tree infected with fungus will be just the stress needed to kill the tree. If you have a mess of symptoms, & definitely have insects and what looks like a fungus too, treat the insects first, often the fungus is secondary, opportunistically infecting the bug damage. Eliminating the insect may actually stop new opportunistic fungal damage from happening.

How to apply - READ THE LABEL, if it says the product is to be sprayed, then spray the product. If the label says ''dab it on with a cotton swab'' then do that. Generally commercial insecticides and pesticides are designed to be sprayed on. DO not use a cotton swab to apply a commercial listed as a spray, as this will likely end up with you getting the pesticide on your skin, and these sprays can be absorbed directly through the skin. This is not a desired outcome. Handling the pesticide to dab on with a cotton swab would also expose you for a longer period to the fumes, which may not be good for ones health. So read the label, follow diections.

The only ''dab on with cotton swab'' pesticides I know of are the ''home remedies'' which will recommend dabbing with a cotton swab. These are made from household items or over the counter chemicals.. For example, if one only has one or two trees, and has mealy bug or scale, it is often recommended to wet a cotton swab with 70% isopropyl alcohol,, the alcohol available in the health & beauty section of your local box store. The alcohol will dehydrate the insect, usually causing it to die, and the alcohol will help wash the bug goo away, generally without harming the plant. It is a tedious process. With larger collections we tend to use commercial products because of the time saved.

 

[Japonicus]

What problems, what plants...

I like the tent idea to maximize foliar coverage. Not sure how to use a box (closed?)
to apply blindly around delicate features on a plant though. I need a little more help
with the box idea. I've got it all wrong.

To answer the question another way, HOW to apply a spray, may be as simple
as the size of your collection. If buying a pre-mixed spray doesn't last the growing season
then a pressurized sprayer, for each type of application would be both more safe and cost effective.
It's safer as you keep more distance from the delivery point to yourself.
Especially if the winds are variable, and you're trying to get the under side.

I like to water my plant prior to foliar application, and I also rotate different insecticides
(insecticidal soap, Malathion and Sevin) and different fungicides with and without copper.
This rotation keeps the effectiveness working over the years, where insects can build resistance
to a single type of "go to-favorite" spray.
Some plants like pines actually need a preventative application before needle cast or rust
develops, but what Wire_Guys_Wire said...+1, identify and provide are necessary horticultural
skills that cannot be overlooked.

Wind/breeze is my biggest enemy with application, so late evening or early morning
when it's calm is not to be overlooked either.

...What's the problems with what type of plants?
Some plants do not react well to Cu. Pictures please.
I probably wouldn't be able to identify a particular fungus, but you'll get
targeted responses from those who can.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I have this large plastic box, in which some of my trees can fit entirely. I use it in the same way as one would use a tent; lift the cover, spray all around, close the cover and let the mist drop onto the plant.
The box protects me and the environment from contamination. The idea behind it is that whenever wind picks up the spray, it goes in 1 direction only. When the lid is closed, it doesn't go anywhere.
Tents can blow in the wind, side flaps can blow anywhere touching body parts and what not. Whereas the box stays in place.
Close it, tape it, store it.
When the time comes, it can be dropped off at a chemical collector in its entirity. No need for even touching the insides.
That's the way I like handling chemicals: not with my hands and ruling out every chance of accidental exposure.

 

[Japonicus]

I have this large plastic box, in which some of my trees can fit entirely. I use it in the same way as one would use a tent; lift the cover, spray all around, close the cover and let the mist drop onto the plant.
The box protects me and the environment from contamination. The idea behind it is that whenever wind picks up the spray, it goes in 1 direction only. When the lid is closed, it doesn't go anywhere.
Tents can blow in the wind, side flaps can blow anywhere touching body parts and what not. Whereas the box stays in place.
Close it, tape it, store it.
When the time comes, it can be dropped off at a chemical collector in its entirity. No need for even touching the insides.
That's the way I like handling chemicals: not with my hands and ruling out every chance of accidental exposure.

Ahhh plastic box! No doubt can see what you're doing. That makes sense.
Here I was trying to figure out how I'd use a repurposed Amazon box.

 

[Kendo]

Get some simple sprayer bottle. Mix to the direction. Spray on the tree. Hai Do this at the coming of dark. Hai Once dry in morning is safe. Hai Most consideration is for killing flowering tree the bees coming. Hai If problem I put on 1 time a week for 3 week. Hai Some I put 3 month 1 spray if not problem. Hai No needing for tent. Hai Just using glove rubber to handle wet product. Hai Once dry is safe con considerably. Hai Product 3n1 also in systemic soils treatment. No spray you can ajust add to soils. Hai If you are worry about spray. Hai

 

[VincentRosas]

As you said that your several nursery stock plants have developed a growing insect/fungus problem, because cultivated plants are more susceptible than their wild relatives. You need to have an effective hygiene program which is important to succeed in growing plants profitably. Some of the exterminators in Long Island said that using of fungicides is necessary to control diseases such as powdery mildew.

 

[VincentRosas]

If you want to use a BioAdvanced's 3-in-1 concentrate you should apply the diluted solution using a tank sprayer. As it helps to cure and prevents listed fungal disease.